Recent content by wilcolater

Carl's post is right, just like what a tittle company would do, but with the payment up front instead of behind. That cash up front should put you at the front of the line on any to get done list, not the back. That being said, as a contractor, friend/neighbor jobs can be tricky, there's a...

Your full length walls should have 16' pressure treated bottom plate that breaks on stud layout, and 16' double top plates over lapping at 8'. You will need the double top plates to carry the load of the 24" o.c. trusses.

the Arrow T50 gun is good (American made) and you can find staples at every home center in multiple sizes. I've just had a couple of them break over the years do to abuse (I still have one that is zip tied together because one of the pins fell out, and it still works, but jams once in a while)...

Duo Fast CS 5000 will drive 5/16" staples flush into oak ( I just tried). I had to take a utility knife to mine to find the model number, its so gummed up with spray glue, and it still will fire staples with out jamming.

Scabbing 2x4s together is acceptable in a non load bearing wall. It might be advantageous compared to building a sill and plate at 8 foot, you can run mechanicals through the wall without having to drill through the plate.

I'm a carpenter and I still agree with Herb, a paver patio, done well, would work great.

i'm guessing you meant Jesse James ... thats MAC

congrats on your purchase. In my neck of the woods a fire wall is needed from garage to living space, usually double layer 5/8 rock, the structural columns would also have to be protected. That being said, one of my favorite homes had a basement garage with a bathroom and laundry room, I could...

All good suggestions,I like the one about hiccups, I use a plasma to notch steel joists and rafters and clamping on a guide works great, freehand cutting to a line you will end up with a cut that looks like a electrocardiograph. A fire watch is also a good idea and more fun.

your solution will work great. I've installed many items with just the toggles on sound drywall and haven't had them come loose. I've also demoed many cabinets that will bust apart before the toggles pull out. no problem your doing the right thing.

The idea of using furring strips on the ceilings, as in Mr. Dudleys post, is a good one. You can get any waviness out by using shims under the furring strips and then you will have a firm predictable surface to work from. Going over plaster with sheetrock is always a trade off... once you do it...

test, only a test to see how this works

second post... Hello, glad to be here.

what ever it is I would'nt try to eat it or smoke it... just saying.