Recent content by xyster101

I did OSB with cheap interior latex 1.5 coats. I painted it then went back over some areas again. Oil base might be a better way to go as I did get some blistering. I just took a knife and cut off any bubbles and put more paint on it. No idea how many gallons, but it was easy and looks good.

Typically you should not pay until they show up to start. I would break the payments down as follows: Half labor up front when they arrive on day 1. Material costs goes to that company (concrete, lumber etc.) when delivered Last half due day it is complete and inspected by you. Then you at...

Just pour a ramp that goes 20 feet out from concrete. It will be a low enough slope and most vehicles are not more then 20 ft long. Easy.

That is not a lot of weight and should be fine. A 2x4 joist will hold the weight of a 200lb person in one spot. Those will hold that weight easily spread over a few of them.

Get a pro to spray outside and inside. They will push a rod into the ground about a foot and spary with 2 ft spacing. It is usually guaranteed for 5 years and that alone is worth the cost of the professional spraying. If you can poke a screwdriver into the wood, replace it. If it looks...

2 Filing cabinets. Works great.

Depends on the weather. In CA some parts you go months without rain and that is your enemy. It is really only the enemy on engineered lumber. 2 by material will be ok for a long time in rain. Take your time framing. Put lots of 2x4 diagonals on the inside for strength. Then do the rafters...

I would say that sounds right. You have a lot of forces going into those end beams. Compression force of the center pillar and tension of the roof triangle pushing the sides out. For the price, you might save money by actually making it out of real timbers! It would be a bear to work with but...

+1 to above. Since you already poured it, just put the 1/2" spacer and pour the apron. Nothing you can do now. It will be ok. Mine is the same way as yours and it works fine. Remember you are not heating this to live in, only to 50-55 degrees.

The point is to keep **** out of the landfill. :thumbup:: I reuse plastic utensils as much as I can. We are such a throw away society, buy, buy, buy, use once, throw it out. Take the filter, wash it, throw it back in, you are done. Takes less time then ordering new and throwing out the...

I am just west of Albany and did a stick built shop myself. I brought my CAD plans to 84 lumber and they made a material and price list. Curtis can do the same but be expensive so check a few places. You really should have some plans drawn up either in CAD (sketch up is free) or on graph...

Post some plans here. Plenty of experts and people who think they are experts will give you all kinds of useful and useless advice. Seriously it will end up good stuff.

Your doors are not supposed to leak from rain. There is a raised "bump" between each door. You can see this as the door goes up between them. This is to keep rain and wind out. There should also be rubber sweeps along the sides and top of the door. There should be a compressible rubber on...

It is the total sqft of the door. I have 8x18 which is 144 sq/ft. My door is insulated with wind braces and very heavy. It has worked fine for 5 years. Ask liftmaster what is the next larger size and go with that.

I did 2x4's, then wire mesh and covered the wire mesh with the concrete. Then put the tile on top of the concrete.