The Best Ratchet Lube Has Been Discovered

[dnschmidt]

Yes, I know everybody loves the "Red Lube of Love" which is a mixture of Permatex Assembly Lube and Super Lube grease mixed one to one. BUT THERE IS A LESS MESSY and easier way. Super Lube makes a product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK?tag=atomicindus08-20 that is a relatively thick oil that doesn't require mixing and has just the right viscosity. Not too thin, not too thick. I first saw this idea in a YouTube video so I figured I'd try it out and it works great and because it's crystal clear it doesn't have the red staining problem caused by the assembly lube. Give it a try.

 

[Wamsutta]

I don't believe there's a universal ratchet lube. Each ratchet design wants its own type lube.

You'll have to find out what the ideal lube is through trial and error.

 

[wrenchr]

I just ordered one. Will give it a try.

 

[KwikFab]

Many have been using them for bearings and such for years. Probably have a few bottles myself that need replacing

Thanks for the heads up

 

[four.cycle]

it doesn't have the red staining problem

but I like the red staining problem. that's why I use Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

[OneEyedMan]

20 years on and still keeping things smooth.

 

[Wamsutta]

I have discovered for a traditional Cornwell 30 tooth ratchet, the Zoom Spout turbine oil is PERFECT.

 

[bbrins]

Meh. I've been using what is, I guess, basically the same thing for years in my ratchets(mostly SK). I have been lubing everything with SuperLube grease, and then adding a bit of SuperLube oil to thin it out to where it ratchets the smoothest.

 

[M.Jay]

Yes, I know everybody loves the "Red Lube of Love" which is a mixture of Permatex Assembly Lube and Super Lube grease mixed one to one.

I once tried the Permatex stuff after reading all the praises about it, but wasn't very impressed by it.

I don't believe there's a universal ratchet lube. Each ratchet design wants its own type lube.

True. I have some ratchets that work awesome with the super lube grease, but others will lock up and require a thin oil instead.

 

[Fedwrench]

I don't believe there's a universal ratchet lube. Each ratchet design wants its own type lube.

You'll have to find out what the ideal lube is through trial and error.

Wait a minute, after promoting nothing but, the red lube of love for many years, you've had an epiphany and realize that different ratchets made need different lubes? Who are you? Did you bang your head falling down at work? Do our meds need to be updated?
Whatever the reason, I'm glad you've seen the light
Well done, Denny, that superlube oil is great on fine toothed ratchets!! Great Find!!

 

[bonneyman]

I just snagged a pair of the S-K DT90 rebuild kits, and they came with what looks like small tubes of straight SuperLube clear grease.

But I use the RLL almost exclusively now. Come to think of it, my grease syringe is almost empty. Will have to mix up some more of that stuff.

 

[Callelle]

I thought 51004 was known about for years. I use it in all my fine tooth ratchets, regular super lube grease in my coarse tooth ones.

 

[Steve_P]

I just snagged a pair of the S-K DT90 rebuild kits, and they came with what looks like small tubes of straight SuperLube clear grease.

But I use the RLL almost exclusively now. Come to think of it, my grease syringe is almost empty. Will have to mix up some more of that stuff.

Tekton also does the same but specifies to not use it on the teeth- just on the back surfaces of the gear and pawl. IME, super lube grease on the gear teeth of 1/4 and 3/8 88-90T ratchets of the LP90, Matco 88, Tekton 90T, GW 90T, Capri 90T..... causes the pawl to stick to the gear and leads to it locking up. You might be able to get away with a light coating of it on a 1/2 drive.

I put the superlube grease on the back of the gear and pawl and use the oil in the OP on the teeth on that style of ratchet.

 

[danielbuck]

I don't believe there's a universal ratchet lube. Each ratchet design wants its own type lube.

You'll have to find out what the ideal lube is through trial and error.

"ideal", I mean pretty much anything will work, hell some of my ratchets I haven't opened up for 10 years and they just had a few drops of motor oil in them.

 

[bonneyman]

Tekton also does the same but specifies to not use it on the teeth- just on the back surfaces of the gear and pawl. IME, super lube grease on the gear teeth of 1/4 and 3/8 88-90T ratchets of the LP90, Matco 88, Tekton 90T, GW 90T, Capri 90T..... causes the pawl to stick to the gear and leads to it locking up. You might be able to get away with a light coating of it on a 1/2 drive.

I put the superlube grease on the back of the gear and pawl and use the oil in the OP on the teeth on that style of ratchet.

The instructions in the kit warn against filling the gear cavity with grease. With my syringe applicator I out a little coating on the gear teeth and pawl teeth and put a drop of turbine oil in each pawl spring.

 

[KnurledNut]

Yes, I know everybody loves the "Red Lube of Love" which is a mixture of Permatex Assembly Lube and Super Lube grease mixed one to one. BUT THERE IS A LESS MESSY and easier way. Super Lube makes a product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK?tag=atomicindus08-20 that is a relatively thick oil that doesn't require mixing and has just the right viscosity. Not too thin, not too thick. I first saw this idea in a YouTube video so I figured I'd try it out and it works great and because it's crystal clear it doesn't have the red staining problem caused by the assembly lube. Give it a try.

RLL is just Permatex Ultra Slick by itself, not mixed with anything else.

 

[Kurt4440]

RLL is just Permatex Ultra Slick by itself, not mixed with anything else.

You are correct, at least according to Merkava back in 2008. I am confident that he is the person who touted this fist on this forum.

 

[ChevyEFI]

I have used ATF a lot.
But now that you mention the red, I will switch to clear Valvoline cvt fluid.

 

[Wamsutta]

Wait a minute, after promoting nothing but, the red lube of love for many years, you've had an epiphany and realize that different ratchets made need different lubes? Who are you? Did you bang your head falling down at work? Do our meds need to be updated?
Whatever the reason, I'm glad you've seen the light
Well done, Denny, that superlube oil is great on fine toothed ratchets!! Great Find!!

RLL is perfect for 30 tooth MAC ratchets. Really smooths them out tremendously.

 

[Wrench-Polisher]

Koken z ratchets with 72 teeth do not like grease at all and do much better with whatever factory put in there or some oil.

 

[Wrench-Polisher]

I will probably try Hobo oil if I want to oil my ratchets.

 

[Madjik Man]

I messed up my Craftsman raised panel ratchets by adding too much red love. No biggie, I hate those ratchets anyway.

Most of my ratchets are 90t so I just use two drops of Lucas Extreme Gun Oil in those and that seems to work nicely.

 

[Fedwrench]

RLL is perfect for 30 tooth MAC ratchets. Really smooths them out tremendously.

Does MAC even still sell those 30 tooth ratchets?

 

[bonneyman]

Does MAC even still sell those 30 tooth ratchets?

Probably not. No need - the original ones are still working!

 

[jblnut]

Serious comment -> You guys lube your ratchets ? Never have Do you notice an actual difference or is it a “well you must do it because you just should” sort of thing ? I’m all for providing lubrication where needed so don’t read this as me attacking and calling y’all dummies for doing something I have never done or thought to do.

I do use a whole bunch of Super Lube products on the farm and haven’t found one I don’t like. Some are spendy but they all seem to do what they claim.

 

[dnschmidt]

It's more of a "I want the smoothest possible ratchet thing" than a real need. I've never heard of a ratchet failing from a lack of lubrication. Being noisy and having significant back drag on the other hand is pretty common.

 

[KnurledNut]

Does MAC even still sell those 30 tooth ratchets?

I called Mac Tools back in the spring to see about a repair kit for an older 30t ratchet that lost its retaining ball. The rep I knew gave up his route many years ago. Despite reports here that those kits are NLA, the kind professional lady knew exactly what I needed and said it was still available, confirmed my address (already a customer in their system) and told me it was on its way with no request to send anything in. A complete USA-made kit with all new components for a full rebuild, including a new cover plate, showed up in a few days and was exactly what I needed to get it back like new.
Great, fast, hassle-free customer service is worth mentioning these days!

 

[M.Jay]

Serious comment -> You guys lube your ratchets ? Never have Do you notice an actual difference or is it a “well you must do it because you just should” sort of thing ?

It helps to make the gear run more smoothly, and adds some rust protection if you live in a humid area. Otherwise it's not really necessary.

 

[Wamsutta]

Does MAC even still sell those 30 tooth ratchets?

I think they've been discontinued. I still have a couple that are brand new.

 

[jblnut]

It's more of a "I want the smoothest possible ratchet thing" than a real need. I've never heard of a ratchet failing from a lack of lubrication. Being noisy and having significant back drag on the other hand is pretty common.

That's the general temperature I gathered out of this thread lol.

All my old ratchets have significant back drag no matter if they're lubed or not so I'll keep putting them to use dry

It helps to make the gear run more smoothly, and adds some rust protection if you live in a humid area. Otherwise it's not really necessary.

I understand what lube does lol I just didn't know if by not lubricating them if I was shortening their lives. A lot of my Craftsman and Proto ratchets were purchased new by my ancestors in the late 50's and early 60's. I have a few newer Snap-On 80 tooth ratchets but honestly don't use them much. I'm the weirdo that prefers the older stuff, not because it's old but because I like it better. I've had a few collector buddies offer me silly money for a few of the complete ratchet/socket sets from the early 60's but they seem to have a good home here in my old Kennedy box so

 

[bonneyman]

I'd say - generally speaking - for low count ratchets (36 and below) I'd recommend Superlube grease. For high count ratchets I'd use a quality oil. Probably something synthetic.

Serious comment -> You guys lube your ratchets ? Never have Do you notice an actual difference or is it a “well you must do it because you just should” sort of thing ? I’m all for providing lubrication where needed so don’t read this as me attacking and calling y’all dummies for doing something I have never done or thought to do.

I do use a whole bunch of Super Lube products on the farm and haven’t found one I don’t like. Some are spendy but they all seem to do what they claim.

I'll admit for the first decade of use I NEVER took apart my S-K roundhead ratchet to clean and lube. And I beat the snot out of it (literally would use it as a small hammer at times). Yes, I know, I was young and stupid. I learned you should lube your tools so took it apart and to my surprise it was slightly dirty but wear was minimal. So I try to take it apart and clean/lube it as the quality tool it is deserves.

 

[AEAdam]

RLL is perfect for 30 tooth MAC ratchets. Really smooths them out tremendously.

Smooth is bad. You want loud mechanical clicking. Grease in the gear teeth is generally bad. Oil is better but it won't stay put. The grease goes under the bottom and the top of the ratchet body. You can grease where the pawls contact the body.

For oil, you just need an oil that's compatible with the grease. I think super lube is compatible with most oils. But the Super Lube oil is a good choice. For grease, you just need a grease that's compatible with the seals (if any).

Here are the key takeaways to ratchet rebuilding:
1) Work clean! gloves are a good idea. Degrease the body and hose it out with acetone. Wipe with lint free cloth. The cleaner the better.
2) All parts should go in wet with a light oil.
3) Grease goes under the gear, against the back (non removable) portion of the ratchet. Grease the pawls where they meet the body. Grease the spring to hold it in place. Squeeze more grease under the top plate. Try to avoid slathering grease on the gears. If a little gets on there, that's ok. Thin film on the seal.
4) Apply the correct torque/loctite to the top plate screws. A torque screwdriver isn't essential, but smart. Failing that, you want the right torque, not too much, not too little.

 

[Wrench-Polisher]

Serious comment -> You guys lube your ratchets ? Never have Do you notice an actual difference or is it a “well you must do it because you just should” sort of thing ? I’m all for providing lubrication where needed so don’t read this as me attacking and calling y’all dummies for doing something I have never done or thought to do.

I do use a whole bunch of Super Lube products on the farm and haven’t found one I don’t like. Some are spendy but they all seem to do what they claim.

I use my rachets for DIY stuff so I don't really need to lube them.
If you use your ratchets a lot you get all sorts of oil,grease,fuel,soot, super duper fine dust and rust particles and a bit of ear wax and belly button lint in your ratchet.
If you notice it take it apart clean it and "grease" it.
Modern high teeth small clearance ratchets? Increases the back drag some are better off being oiled.

Again this is mostly a concern for professionals. Took me 20 years to take apart my sears ratchet because it was finally dirty enough. (it probably wasnt may have been the factory grease congealing).

 

[Wrench-Polisher]

Hobo oil and gun butter may be a good oil to try on the teeth if you have that sitting around. Although hobo oil is quite exotic.

 

[Dig Doug]

Wait…

You all lube your ratchets ?

 

[PowderKeg]

I've been using the aerosol version of NAPA Sil-Glyde for many years on the ratchet obsess... er, "collection". A quick burp thru the straw down into ratchet guts I don't want to tear completely apart has always worked fine for me - years later I can still pick up a ratchet and it's as smooth as it was when it got burped after cleaning with Sil-Glyde. Now admittedly most of those ratchets aren't getting daily use, but the ones I do reach for regularly are just as smooth every time.

I briefly tried RLL in a few but quickly got disgusted with the never-ending drool that coated the entire drawer.

 

[JeepYJ]

Wait…

You all lube your ratchets ?

You guys lube your ratchets ?

It’s one of the 10 steps in Tool Polishing>Ratchets.

 

[wrenchr]

Does MAC even still sell those 30 tooth ratchets?

I know my Mac dealer still has some on his truck. Does not mean they are still in production.

 

[boom_bap]

I use the oil op posted on pocket knifes after cleaning since it is food safe (at least the sku I use is). In ratchets I use slickolium grease like for stanchion forks in bikes or syn super lube grease for lower tooth count.

 

[AEAdam]

I use the oil op posted on pocket knifes after cleaning since it is food safe (at least the sku I use is). In ratchets I use slickolium grease like for stanchion forks in bikes or syn super lube grease for lower tooth count.

Good point: SuperLube wasn't developed to be a better lubricant. It was developed as a food safe alternative to other oils and greases used in food processing equipment. There are other (better) sythnetic oils and greases out there.

For me- when this subject comes up, I get stuck down in a grease rabbit hole. Lately, I've been limiting my selection of greases to those that are most commonly useful for me, and most convenient to use. SuperLube offers a variety of lubricants that can be an excellent solution to almost all your needs.

I've been using Superlube products on tools and guns and stuff like that. Stuff I handle, stuff that maybe I'm not wearing gloves with or may not be hand washing. For automotive, lawn equipment (including heavy equipment), machine shop, I use 3 in1, WD-40, Mobil 1 motor oil and Mobil 1 (red) grease. That sounds like a lot. But I'm moving away from all the white lithium greases etc.

Ya know, Vaseline is an excellent grease. Pretty sure it doesn't have good high temp properties. But I use it for long term storage of precision tools (instead of something like comosline). Its cheap, easy to remove, and also food safe. Its just mineral oil. In my woodshop, I have pure pharmacy store mineral oil- also food safe, I use for sharpening tools, and as a lubricant on metal planes etc. Its not entirely different from 3 in 1 oil tho. By the way, the name 3 in 1, is a stand it for "Cleans Lubricates and Protects" which is the same as speciality "gun" lubricants like breakfree CLP.

TBH, oils and greases are a lot like wood finishes. There are a couple basic products that comprise the base of 1000 different cans of stuff out there. Choosing one over the other is a bit subjective at times. That said, I wouldn't recommend putting vaseline in a ratchet. The synthetic greases have much higher temperature ranges - don't get stiff in cold weather and don't dissolve in hot weather