I figured there was a functional purpose, your project is to nice to have it off set/ asymmetrical otherwise.
Front Engine Accessory Drive. Alternator, water pump, hydroboost pump, AC compressor.
Two ways I solved the phone to computer problem. First was to connect my phone to the computer using usb cable connection which worked okay but kinda time consuming. Second, and current, method is to connect via bluetooth and selecting individual files to transmit. Very quick and easy (once you figure it out the first time).
I had some lights very similar to those to illuminate my flags. However, I discovered (too late) they lens were not sealed sufficiently to prevent leakage so the housing filled with rainwater and destroyed the fixtures.Put stuff away from yesterday's plumbing project. The pub is closed Mon-Wed, so there was no hurry.
Since we've recently reduced staff, I was informed that cleaning the grease trap weekly is now part of my job. Oh, joy.
Worked on the solar light system for our sign out front. I've been keeping one 15AH LiFePO4 battery on the charger overnight (trickle charger) while the other was in the sign, then swapping them out every day we're open. Not all that onerous, but I have solar panels out there for a reason.
I realized that the trees had grown, shading the panels longer in the morning than they used to, plus I'd swapped out the 4 Watt lights that were on the sign previously for some real purty 15 Watt floods. While the big floods looked great and really lit the sign up, they were too much for what the poor panels could replace during the day--especially the short, dark winter day.
I replaced the 15 Watt light fixtures with some new 4W ones. They're made by the same company, so still look nice, but have easily replaced and inexpensive bi-pin bulbs.
A fifteen minute job. I think I might have spent less than two hours on it. I had to remove the old lights, bring them back to the shop--it's miserable outside today--solder on some extensions on the cords for the new lights, heat-shrink the splices, etc. Then wallow out one of the holes through the posts for the sign as it had swollen nearly shut, snake the new wires through, and... the damned threads on the lights that are supposed to be 1/2" NPT aren't threaded far enough to go in the plumbing fittings I have on the sign.
I mean, really, these light fixtures ain't cheap and I still have to do this?
Anyhow, got 'er done:
I just have to wait 'til after dark to do the final adjustment on them and then LocTite the pivot knobs to keep the feral children from unscrewing them--again.
Taking the sign down and getting it repainted by a local artist is on the Spring to-do list.
Now to chase a glycol leak in the fermenter hall....
I'll have to check the brand. I got these from Azon, but they're dead-ringers for the much more expensive PAR 36 fixtures I got from Volt lighting.
Sometimes you need tape(the thicker kind) and pipe dope together to make them seal.The fermenter I installed a couple of weeks ago was leaking coolant. Not a lot, but every little bit matters.
After careful examination, I was able to narrow the leak down to which fitting it was: All of them! Our local plumbing/electrical place carries some Made in Vietnam SS threaded plumbing fittings. They're a biatch to get to seal. I think part of the problem is that the very hard SS threads aren't conformable--they don't deform on tightening--and they're being threaded to equally hard SS ports on the ferm.
I spent far too long getting the glycol coolant drained and getting the thickest pipe dope I have worked deep into the threads. I seem to have gotten it--but it wasn't leaking immediately after I put it together the first time, either. Fingers crossed.
I also realized that I appeared to have been drinking heavily (I wasn't) when I installed the ferm the first time around. For reasons unknown, I had the solenoid valve in entirely the wrong place--in between two of the three cooling jackets. The problem with that is that the solenoid opens and closes FAST, causing a hydraulic shock upstream of it. With a flex line to absorb the shock, it's not a problem. When the valve is mounted directly to the fermenter, it would eventually cause the welds of a jacket to fail.
This is the proper way to plumb it:
Coolant enters through the solenoid valve at the top of the jackets and exits the bottom.
Now to check and make sure I didn't install the valve backwards again.
Two of the male NPT ports of the fermenter are located on the cone, making the use of tape nearly impossible.
The fermenter I installed a couple of weeks ago was leaking coolant. Not a lot, but every little bit matters.
After careful examination, I was able to narrow the leak down to which fitting it was: All of them! Our local plumbing/electrical place carries some Made in Vietnam SS threaded plumbing fittings. They're a biatch to get to seal. I think part of the problem is that the very hard SS threads aren't conformable--they don't deform on tightening--and they're being threaded to equally hard SS ports on the ferm.
I spent far too long getting the glycol coolant drained and getting the thickest pipe dope I have worked deep into the threads. I seem to have gotten it--but it wasn't leaking immediately after I put it together the first time, either. Fingers crossed.
I also realized that I appeared to have been drinking heavily (I wasn't) when I installed the ferm the first time around. For reasons unknown, I had the solenoid valve in entirely the wrong place--in between two of the three cooling jackets. The problem with that is that the solenoid opens and closes FAST, causing a hydraulic shock upstream of it. With a flex line to absorb the shock, it's not a problem. When the valve is mounted directly to the fermenter, it would eventually cause the welds of a jacket to fail.
This is the proper way to plumb it:
Coolant enters through the solenoid valve at the top of the jackets and exits the bottom.
Now to check and make sure I didn't install the valve backwards again.
We've had problems with stratification and the bottom of the ferm freezing doing it that way. Having the cold come in at the top seems to establish a thermo-siphon action inside the tank, preventing stratification.
Yeah we always use Wolverine Brass’ “The Beast” tape (it’s nice and thick) and Masters Metallic dope on all our stainless steam systems, rarely if ever do they leak.
I’ve had a hell of a time getting stainless npt fittings to seal reliably. It seems like there is always one or two that end up weeping. This happens even after chasing the threads with a fresh tap and die. For me, the only reliable solution has been -all of the above - plus using the modern version of thread packing cord- loctite #55 packing cord. Apply the cord exactly as the instructions describe. Plus a little extra. I also use loctite 567 goop.
Too bad you’re so far, I’d ****** em up. I still believe in physical media. Vinyl is preferred, but a well recorded cd can be quite enjoyable.
Shipping on a bunch of CDs shouldn't be prohibitive. Remember what these cost new? $10-20+ each in nineties bucks....
Yeah, I'm also remembering that ripping CDs isn't as onerous as vinyl. It was kind of cool being forced to listen to the entirety of a vinyl album to rip it, but it took a while. Then Audacity for another hour to set tracks, levels, titles, etc. I did a couple of hundred over a couple of years.There's 600+ CDs on my shelf as i sit here looking at it. Cant remember the last time i listened to one - usually i'm pulling one down and ripping it to a lossless flac file for my phone
Vinyl is to listening as hardback books are to reading. The entirety of the experience is more than just the sounds/words, but also exists in the viewing of the cover art, the reading of the liner notes, the enjoyment of the font, the tactile feel of the book in your hands, the smell of paper, and so on.
For some reason I thought you had battery/solar lights for the signs. I have no electric to my flag pole or I'd take you up on the old lights. Thanks.
One thing I learned from ripping vinyl to digital files--I mostly listen to MP3 at high sampling rate--is the difference in dynamic range. The vinyl has a much higher range--the difference between loudest and quietest sounds--than even 32 bit MP3. When setting the levels, you have to decide what to lose--if you "clip" the high levels, it comes across as as loud CLICKs in the sound. If you clip the low levels, you lose them--but without audible artifacts.
I do have solar--which is why I switched from the 15 W PAR 36 lights to the 4 W bi-pins. If you have a better solar set up, you could still use the 15 W fixtures.
