Beginner perspective on buying ratchets and sockets

[just_a_janitor]

Wrenching is relatively new to me (in the last year). I have always maintained and repaired my own small engines and other equipment - easy things like cleaning or refurbishing carburetors, replacing fuel lines, changing oil, spark plugs, etc. Many of my hobbies are from pure interest but others are to defray what I see as the ridiculously increasing costs of labor. Defraying the cost of labor is why I decided to take on the next level of small engine repair to automotive repair. I have read a lot of Garage Journal over the past year and perhaps to give back, this is my experience with gearing up for this new venture.

I started with GearWrench sets that included ratchets and sockets. Specifically, 80300P (1/4"), 80550P (3/8") and 80700P (1/2") - all MT and SAE, Tekton ratchet and socket sets SKT05303 (1/4") and SKT15301 (3/8") - all MT and SAE and the new 2025-issue SK sets in both 160P and 216P ratchets. Specifically, SK01358A (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"), SK03002 (1/4" in EVA foam) and SK03022A (1/4" and 3/8" in EVA foam).

After fiddling around with different socket holders and becoming frustrated with that, I decided that EVA foam was the way to go so I upgraded my GearWrench sets to 86529 (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" in EVA foam) and GWMSCWS6SAEMM (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" impacts in EVA foam).

I chose the U.S. General Series 3 56" roller cabinet from Harbor Freight to store everything.

Fast forward to today and I now have Snap-On ratchets and sockets. Just the basics: FLF80A 11.5" 3/8" flex head, FHLD80 12" 3/8" fixed head, TL72 6.5" 1/4" fixed head and TF72 6.25" 1/4" flex head. Along with 212FSMSY 3/8" semi-deep sockets, 112TMMSY 1/4" semi-deep sockets and 112TMMY 1/4" shallow sockets. Just the metric sockets for now.

This may seem like a lot, haha. But it's what I do since I have to know for myself.

The basics for an automotive hobbyist would be standard handle fixed head ratchets in 1/4" and 3/8" followed by standard depth chrome sockets in metric. Standard length fixed handles are what come in the kits. Add a long handle (10-13") 3/8" flex head ratchet. Then other basics such as a set of screwdrivers, hex keys (with Torx), socket extensions, socket universal joints, lug nut impact set and other specialty odds and ends that can be cheap such as oil filter wrench/socket, brake caliper spreader and a 10+ quart oil pan/container combo.

The GearWrench, Tekton and (new) SK - to me - are all equivalent. It is more or less the same stuff at basic levels such as metallurgy, fitness and form. You can tell by the weight, feel and operation of the tools. I wouldn't put any over the others. The 160P SK ratchets have the smoothest gears if that's your thing and you're all about aesthetics. Of these, I personally prefer the 90 tooth GearWrench ratchets and I prefer standard chrome handles (no soft-grip) for better tactile feel and feedback. The 120XP GearWrench have smaller heads but for me, the 90s are easier and more comfortable to palm when needed. GearWrench and SK offer sets in EVA foam which is great for organization and you can skip all the gimmicky rabbit hole sh*t with socket holders if you don't need those. Tekton sells sets in trays but Tekton is really starting to hike prices.

So here is my experience for others like me who may have some extra money: for regular wrenching with chrome buy the Snap-Ons up front (eBay has them). Start with the basics like mine and add if needed. I wouldn't say this for all hobbies or endeavors but I would for wrenching. This is not to knock GearWrench, Tekton or even the new SK. They are all solid, heavy duty, and will get you through anything you want to do. Probably for a very long time. The Snap-On, however, feel like professional instruments as opposed to tools. The basic Snap-On stuff I mentioned above will cost you roughly $750-$1100 depending on what kind of deals you find on new tools. This will pay for itself after 3-4 light duty brake jobs or 2-3 heavy duty brake jobs.

Otherwise, go with GearWrench, Tekton or SK. Doesn't really matter. Maybe even a Husky set in EVA foam (haven't tried it yet) - Home Depot has a 1/4" & 3/8" set for $80 that is on sale for $50. My view is that GearWrench and SK are competitive with pricing whereas Tekton is likely just bumping prices to appear more premium than the other two.

I wouldn't necessarily overlook Harbor Freight tools but with the bargain prices come tradeoffs. The Pittsburgh stuff has less attention to detail which can matter. It is rougher which lends to ham-handing. The Quinn stuff is more polished on the outside but comes in things like 12 point sockets and they're also generally rough. I haven't tried Icon and probably won't. Doyle pliers are one of the exceptions - they are good and tight. But funnels, brake caliper spreaders, oil pan/container, rags, tool carts...all great.

 

[bulletpruf]

If you wrench for a living, get the SnapOn. Otherwise, the second tier stuff will work mighty fine. I have a fair bit of Craftsman stuff, but I really don't like their ratchets; the coarse tooth design handles more torque, but I hate how they feel.

Harbor Freight can be hit or miss, but I like their made in Taiwan stuff, including their ratchets with a fine-tooth count. I stay away from their chrome sockets; have broken a few.

The HF impact sockets have served me well.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you are NOT a professional, skip Snap-on, unless you are a crow (crows like shiny objects that they don't know what to do with). Same is true for HF ICON.

I have 50 yo old Craftsman. They work.

 

[E46 Tony]

If you are NOT a professional, skip Snap-on, unless you are a crow (crows like shiny objects that they don't know what to do with). Same is true for HF ICON.

I have 50 yo old Craftsman. They work.

If the goal is rounding fasteners and busting knuckles old Craftsman is fantastic. I'm so glad to have replaced mine with Snap-On and Icon.

 

[bulletpruf]

If the goal is rounding fasteners and busting knuckles old Craftsman is fantastic. I'm so glad to have replaced mine with Snap-On and Icon.

Is HF Icon really that good? I've seen them and was surprised that HF was selling stuff at that price point.

 

[just_a_janitor]

To add, the tools I had for small engines were all pre-2010 (whatever that may mean) and consisted of Crescent, Kobalt and a brand or two that wouldn't be familiar and are no longer around. Any older (2010 and before in my experience) tool from the well-known names were different then than they are now. The heft and density when holding them is clear. My older Kobalt sockets feel like my new Snap-On sockets. The older Kobalt ratchet gears (a 1/4") feel closer to the new Snap-On ratchet than they do to any newer mainstream ratchet. It's harder to tell with the wrenches but the older Crescent wrenches are still what I use when I actually need a wrench.

My guess is that the newer tools from mainstream names are using alloys that are cheaper to produce and softer for forming and stamping which reduces wear and tear on the machinery and dies that produce them. Either that or they are lighter but harder alloys that are more brittle. To be clear, the alloys still consist predominantly of "CrV" but some tangential elements have changed. I haven't used Craftsman but I would guess the same applies. Either way, there is a kind of loss of tangible, analog soul with newer mainstream tools.

My impression after using newer mainstream tools over a relatively short period is that they will likely be just fine for a very long time of hobby use. Maybe newer tools really are better and I'm nostalgic but I do prefer the feel of either older mainstream tools or current Snap-On. Perhaps in the same way I prefer a standard V8 to today's turbo V6s. I think the real verdict on those is still out also but I also think future generations may never know the difference.

 

[finn]

If the goal is rounding fasteners and busting knuckles old Craftsman is fantastic. I'm so glad to have replaced mine with Snap-On and Icon.

A good mechanic doesn’t blame his tools when he screws up.

 

[swsman]

It is not the arrow, it is the Indian.
Basically invest in knowledge and competence doing the work, after if you need better tools you will know.

I own a mashup, not a single Snap On ratchet. Still manage to maintain a large fleet of vehicles just fine.

 

[swsman]

If the goal is rounding fasteners and busting knuckles old Craftsman is fantastic. I'm so glad to have replaced mine with Snap-On and Icon.

I have used older paddle style Craftsman ratchets for years. Never had an issue getting the work done, got to use the brains and not push the tool beyond its limits.

It has been a good 5 plus years since I have used 1/2 drive for majority of work I do.

1/4 and 3/8 drive for me - 1/2 is there as needed.

I will agree with you and getting tools that provide leverage, I love my Capri long boxed end wrenches for said purpose.

They make things easy to break loose and follow up with combo ratchet wrenches (Craftsman set I bought before Sears went out of business).

Of course cordless tools make it even easier, well tooled up with them too.

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

For a beginner trying to do diy automotive work your better off buying import tools and a $600 Autel scanner. Hand tool brands dont matter if you can't diagnose the issue. Don't forget Alldata DIY, thats also much better then listening to YouTube losers!

 

[alinc100]

If you'd like Snap On quality sockets at GW/Tekton/Sk price levels buy CAT sockets. Use the money saved for premium ratchets. Never have to look back at that point.

 

[gtae07]

Y'all got expensive tastes...
Between my dad and myself, we've built and maintained two airplanes, a boat, and a shop, and maintained the houses and family vehicles, with mostly 80s and 90s Craftsman and various HF gear and a smattering of power tool brands. No Snapon or other high end stuff. But we're not busting tools or destroying fasteners...

 

[theoldwizard1]

If the goal is rounding fasteners and busting knuckles old Craftsman is fantastic

I don't wrench as much as I used to (remember I said I bought those Craftsman tools 50 years ago), but I learned long ago, the best way to PREVENT rounded off fasteners is use 6 point sockets !

 

[wayne55]

Growing up in the 60's and 70's, I thought I could do no better than USA Craftsman.

 

[AEAdam]

If you are NOT a professional, skip Snap-on, unless you are a crow (crows like shiny objects that they don't know what to do with). Same is true for HF ICON.

I have 50 yo old Craftsman. They work.

With respect, this is really bad advice.

Craftsman was a good value 50 yrs ago. I bought them at their peak in the late 80s early 90s. They were excellent compared to the competition then. Bargain tools today are better than those old craftsman ever were. And Craftsman today isn't as competitive as it once was.

If the goal is rounding fasteners and busting knuckles old Craftsman is fantastic. I'm so glad to have replaced mine with Snap-On and Icon.

X1000. This was exactly my experience. I'm still using my old craftsman tools for some jobs. But when the going gets tough, I seek out the better tools.

A good mechanic doesn’t blame his tools when he screws up.

It is not the arrow, it is the Indian.
Basically invest in knowledge and competence doing the work, after if you need better tools you will know.

I own a mashup, not a single Snap On ratchet. Still manage to maintain a large fleet of vehicles just fine.

Can't argue with this. ^^^^ These guys are right, but:

Many of my hobbies are from pure interest but others are to defray what I see as the ridiculously increasing costs of labor. Defraying the cost of labor is why I decided to take on the next level of small engine repair to automotive repair.

This describes me as well. My patience for the learning curve, the years of doing a few repairs a year until you have the necessary feel to know when a socket is about to let go, makes the advice above out of touch with reality. Shade tree mechanics like me face ENORMOUS pressure to complete jobs in a timely and drama free fashion. Challenging my part time skills, technique, experience with sub tier tools is,... sorry for this, just plain dumb.

The costs the OP is talking about are crazy high and getting higher. Maybe some of you are driving late model Toyota Camrys and just don't get it. I have an older Dodge that is coming unglued and requires near constant service. A new version of this vehicle is $50,000. The cost of the tools is completely insignificant. I did EXACTLY what the OP did and found bargains on top notch tools. Every day I can keep my Dodge Durango running, I'm saving money, obviously not just on the labor and 100% markup on parts, but on deferring its replacement.

Underlining the OPs advice: I bought Snap on sockets for around $100/set 15yrs ago or so. I've used them a lot. They've easily paid for themselves many times over in repairs I've done. In fact, all the sockets in my drawer (6 sets) were paid for in a single wheel bearing job on a VW. This is the reality we are up against. I did a front wheel bearing on a GTI for $350 in OEM parts instead of $1100 at an indy and $1700 at the stealership. (I asked them to replace rotors and pads while they were there and they added those in at full book value. And the parts were ridiculous).

Not saying one has to buy Snap on. Looks to me as tho Icon is darned good. Just try to avoid buying starter tools and upgrading if you can.

 

[finn]

With respect, this is really bad advice.

Craftsman was a good value 50 yrs ago. I bought them at their peak in the late 80s early 90s. They were excellent compared to the competition then. Bargain tools today are better than those old craftsman ever were. And Craftsman today isn't as competitive as it once was.


X1000. This was exactly my experience. I'm still using my old craftsman tools for some jobs. But when the going gets tough, I seek out the better tools.




Can't argue with this. ^^^^ These guys are right, but:


This describes me as well. My patience for the learning curve, the years of doing a few repairs a year until you have the necessary feel to know when a socket is about to let go, makes the advice above out of touch with reality. Shade tree mechanics like me face ENORMOUS pressure to complete jobs in a timely and drama free fashion. Challenging my part time skills, technique, experience with sub tier tools is,... sorry for this, just plain dumb.

The costs the OP is talking about are crazy high and getting higher. Maybe some of you are driving late model Toyota Camrys and just don't get it. I have an older Dodge that is coming unglued and requires near constant service. A new version of this vehicle is $50,000. The cost of the tools is completely insignificant. I did EXACTLY what the OP did and found bargains on top notch tools. Every day I can keep my Dodge Durango running, I'm saving money, obviously not just on the labor and 100% markup on parts, but on deferring its replacement.

Underlining the OPs advice: I bought Snap on sockets for around $100/set 15yrs ago or so. I've used them a lot. They've easily paid for themselves many times over in repairs I've done. In fact, all the sockets in my drawer (6 sets) were paid for in a single wheel bearing job on a VW. This is the reality we are up against. I did a front wheel bearing on a GTI for $350 in OEM parts instead of $1100 at an indy and $1700 at the stealership. (I asked them to replace rotors and pads while they were there and they added those in at full book value. And the parts were ridiculous).

Not saying one has to buy Snap on. Looks to me as tho Icon is darned good. Just try to avoid buying starter tools and upgrading if you can.

I have Snapon, old (and newer) Craftsman, and probably at least a half dozen other brands of ratchets, sockets, and wrenches in various locations scattered across several properties.

I don’t have allegiance toward Snapon or any other brand. Snapon isn’t magic.

I will agree that Snapon, and many other modern ratchets are better than the old RP ratchets, but otherwise my fasteners don’t GAF what brand ratchet, socket, or wrench turns them. In fact, my metric snapon combination wrenches hurt my hands, and my 3/8 drive SnapOn sockets are typically difficult to disengage from the various ratchets, so I subconsciously avoid using them.

I’ve never, to my knowledge, rounded off a bolt or nut where I considered it the tool’s fault.

Edit: I’m not implying that you shouldn’t buy Snapon if that’s something that blows up your skirt. Don’t fool yourself into thinking the expensive tools are going to make your life better, though. It’s mostly an ego thing, in my experience and opinion, having owned them all.

 

[DarryT]

If you feel like you need USA made Snap-on sockets as a home mechanic (you don't), just get a 3/8 Cat set, it's the same product for less moolah.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Y'all got expensive tastes...
Between my dad and myself, we've built and maintained two airplanes, a boat, and a shop, and maintained the houses and family vehicles, with mostly 80s and 90s Craftsman and various HF gear and a smattering of power tool brands. No Snapon or other high end stuff. But we're not busting tools or destroying fasteners...

You get much rust down there in Georgia?

 

[mikedodge]

What to buy all depeonds on what you're doing. If you are a professional go for snapon or mac. If you are more a hobbyist get whatever sits your needs.

Start with one of those decent priced full sets that usually go for $100-$200. That gets you the 3 sizes of ratchets and sockets in standard and metric with extensions and other common stuff. Most are good enough quality that they won't damage anything, Then fill in the gaps. If you want something better quality as you're doing more and see down sides get something better and this set will work for when you need a second of certain size.

How good certain brans of ratchets and specific models feel is an opinion. What one person likes someone else might hate. What's more important is knowing what ones truly **** and either break, don't have enough tooth count to wkr decently, sockets that have some obstruction that don't work too well or really bad quality chrome that peels, etc.

 

[Shelbylex]

It all depends on how fast you want all the tools and how much time you spend putting your sets together.

If you want everything fast - another socket option to consider will be Koken tools (yes, no warranty, but how often do you really break sockets and ratchets if you use them carefully? (for example going to 1/2 drive from 3/8 drive for the rusty bolt on the brakes which you already feel will not go easy). Koken has good line of tools and you can always add singles for what you are missing or if you break something.

If you have time to make a tool set - buy something relatively inexpensive with a good quality and then add as you find deals or you need better quality tools. Sometimes you can get the same Snap On/MAC/etc for relatively little money on flee markets and yard sales - buy them when opportunities arise.

(... I also tend to use my mismatched or less fancy sockets on the rusty/extra dirty things. However, for some reason on a cleaner projects I tend to use my Snap Ons (does not make the work easier - just like the idea). Then again, as an example, knowing that one of the last deep 10mm 1/4 drive Snap On sockets was bought for around a $1 and another one for not much more, I feel that it's money well spent. (NB a lot of my Snap Ons sockets are incomplete sets being slowly put together when opportunities come while I am collecting older tools for my enjoyment (not for use...). NB I am doing a little DIY here and there. If I was a pro, I am not sure what would be the best approach with the tools - time is money in these situations...)

 

[T45]

+1 CAT sockets should be your first (serious) purchase out of all the available options these days.

Keep in mind you don't need top end sockets for every single rail in your box, and you need to budget for impacts. For travel kits you don't need snap-on, same for construction/DIY, plumbing and what not.

For basic impacts, on a budget, its hard not to like full sets of the HF-quinn (on 35%) off at HF.

 

[richfinn]

Wrenching is relatively new to me (in the last year). I have always maintained and repaired my own small engines and other equipment - easy things like cleaning or refurbishing carburetors, replacing fuel lines, changing oil, spark plugs, etc. Many of my hobbies are from pure interest but others are to defray what I see as the ridiculously increasing costs of labor. Defraying the cost of labor is why I decided to take on the next level of small engine repair to automotive repair. I have read a lot of Garage Journal over the past year and perhaps to give back, this is my experience with gearing up for this new venture.

I started with GearWrench sets that included ratchets and sockets. Specifically, 80300P (1/4"), 80550P (3/8") and 80700P (1/2") - all MT and SAE, Tekton ratchet and socket sets SKT05303 (1/4") and SKT15301 (3/8") - all MT and SAE and the new 2025-issue SK sets in both 160P and 216P ratchets. Specifically, SK01358A (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"), SK03002 (1/4" in EVA foam) and SK03022A (1/4" and 3/8" in EVA foam).

After fiddling around with different socket holders and becoming frustrated with that, I decided that EVA foam was the way to go so I upgraded my GearWrench sets to 86529 (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" in EVA foam) and GWMSCWS6SAEMM (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" impacts in EVA foam).

I chose the U.S. General Series 3 56" roller cabinet from Harbor Freight to store everything.

Fast forward to today and I now have Snap-On ratchets and sockets. Just the basics: FLF80A 11.5" 3/8" flex head, FHLD80 12" 3/8" fixed head, TL72 6.5" 1/4" fixed head and TF72 6.25" 1/4" flex head. Along with 212FSMSY 3/8" semi-deep sockets, 112TMMSY 1/4" semi-deep sockets and 112TMMY 1/4" shallow sockets. Just the metric sockets for now.

This may seem like a lot, haha. But it's what I do since I have to know for myself.

The basics for an automotive hobbyist would be standard handle fixed head ratchets in 1/4" and 3/8" followed by standard depth chrome sockets in metric. Standard length fixed handles are what come in the kits. Add a long handle (10-13") 3/8" flex head ratchet. Then other basics such as a set of screwdrivers, hex keys (with Torx), socket extensions, socket universal joints, lug nut impact set and other specialty odds and ends that can be cheap such as oil filter wrench/socket, brake caliper spreader and a 10+ quart oil pan/container combo.

The GearWrench, Tekton and (new) SK - to me - are all equivalent. It is more or less the same stuff at basic levels such as metallurgy, fitness and form. You can tell by the weight, feel and operation of the tools. I wouldn't put any over the others. The 160P SK ratchets have the smoothest gears if that's your thing and you're all about aesthetics. Of these, I personally prefer the 90 tooth GearWrench ratchets and I prefer standard chrome handles (no soft-grip) for better tactile feel and feedback. The 120XP GearWrench have smaller heads but for me, the 90s are easier and more comfortable to palm when needed. GearWrench and SK offer sets in EVA foam which is great for organization and you can skip all the gimmicky rabbit hole sh*t with socket holders if you don't need those. Tekton sells sets in trays but Tekton is really starting to hike prices.

So here is my experience for others like me who may have some extra money: for regular wrenching with chrome buy the Snap-Ons up front (eBay has them). Start with the basics like mine and add if needed. I wouldn't say this for all hobbies or endeavors but I would for wrenching. This is not to knock GearWrench, Tekton or even the new SK. They are all solid, heavy duty, and will get you through anything you want to do. Probably for a very long time. The Snap-On, however, feel like professional instruments as opposed to tools. The basic Snap-On stuff I mentioned above will cost you roughly $750-$1100 depending on what kind of deals you find on new tools. This will pay for itself after 3-4 light duty brake jobs or 2-3 heavy duty brake jobs.

Otherwise, go with GearWrench, Tekton or SK. Doesn't really matter. Maybe even a Husky set in EVA foam (haven't tried it yet) - Home Depot has a 1/4" & 3/8" set for $80 that is on sale for $50. My view is that GearWrench and SK are competitive with pricing whereas Tekton is likely just bumping prices to appear more premium than the other two.

I wouldn't necessarily overlook Harbor Freight tools but with the bargain prices come tradeoffs. The Pittsburgh stuff has less attention to detail which can matter. It is rougher which lends to ham-handing. The Quinn stuff is more polished on the outside but comes in things like 12 point sockets and they're also generally rough. I haven't tried Icon and probably won't. Doyle pliers are one of the exceptions - they are good and tight. But funnels, brake caliper spreaders, oil pan/container, rags, tool carts...all great.

Welcome to GJ

Stick around, Snap-On make some great stuff, but there are some other brands you might be unaware of that make awesome sockets, ratchets wrenches, pliers and screwdrivers (particularly Japanese, German and French brands like Ko-ken, Vessel, Knipex, Stahlwille, Facom ) which are very good value in comparison to Snap-On

 

[CoThG]

It is not the arrow, it is the Indian.
Basically invest in knowledge and competence doing the work, after if you need better tools you will know.

I own a mashup, not a single Snap On ratchet. Still manage to maintain a large fleet of vehicles just fine.

But the Snap-On "arrow" sure is a lot more accurate that most other "arrows"...

 

[CoThG]

If you are NOT a professional, skip Snap-on, unless you are a crow (crows like shiny objects that they don't know what to do with). Same is true for HF ICON.

I have 50 yo old Craftsman. They work.

 

[swsman]

But the Snap-On "arrow" sure is a lot more accurate that most other "arrows"...

I tell ya what.

I recently replaced rack and pinion / valve covers / coolant crossover pipe gaskets and other bits on 2011 Impala. Both big jobs.
Never once have I felt the tools used held me back. Car engineering on the other hand had me shaking my head.

You bring your SnapOn stuff, I will use my Tekton/Astro Tools/Pittsburgh Pro ratchet mashup.

Lets disassemble and get after it.

Snap On nut swinging on this forum is like an epidemic, lots of shiny tools that seldom see its intended use. I am not a collector, my stuff earns its keep when called upon.

 

[T45]

I tell ya what...

The op is doing his best to give advice on the current market conditions.

I actually happen to agree with most of what he's sayin.

Its also very possible to "build a box" with cman usa or other cheap stuff, and basically...never use them...

If I owned that stuff, even 400 pieces of it, I'd still much rather have just a couple good sockets....say... 8,10,12 13 14...mayve 17 in [whatever good brand] (1/4s and 3/8ths dr) if that was all I could afford.

Make the whole rest of the box Taiwan I really wouldnt care I don't think. But those sizes get used so much, and have so much upside to having good fitment and hand feel, its worth upgrading.

Things that are much better than average...Hazet, Snap-on, Facom...just a couple examples from different markets and different pricepoints.

OP is also not recommending paying retail...so keep that in mind.

Again debating "what chrome" sockets in 2026 when you can buy CAT for cheap (probably limited time) is silly...

But that's just my opinion.

 

[CoThG]

I tell ya what.

I recently replaced rack and pinion / valve covers / coolant crossover pipe gaskets and other bits on 2011 Impala. Both big jobs.
Never once have I felt the tools used held me back. Car engineering on the other hand had me shaking my head.

You bring your SnapOn stuff, I will use my Tekton/Astro Tools/Pittsburgh Pro ratchet mashup.

Lets disassemble and get after it.

Snap On nut swinging on this forum is like an epidemic, lots of shiny tools that seldom see its intended use. I am not a collector, my stuff earns its keep when called upon.

I'm glad you were successful in your repairs. Modern cars are frustrating to work on regardless of the tool brand in use.
I did use my Snap-On SDDD220 Interchangeable Shank Screwdriver (S2-P2) today to assemble my daughter's Ikea bookshelf.

 

[CoThG]

The op is doing his best to give advice on the current market conditions.

I actually happen to agree with most of what he's sayin.

Its also very possible to "build a box" with cman usa or other cheap stuff, and basically...never use them...

If I owned that stuff, even 400 pieces of it, I'd still much rather have just a couple good sockets....say... 8,10,12 13 14...mayve 17 in [whatever good brand] (1/4s and 3/8ths dr) if that was all I could afford.

Make the whole rest of the box Taiwan I really wouldnt care I don't think. But those sizes get used so much, and have so much upside to having good fitment and hand feel, its worth upgrading.

Things that are much better than average...Hazet, Snap-on, Facom...just a couple examples from different markets and different pricepoints.

OP is also not recommending paying retail...so keep that in mind.

Again debating "what chrome" sockets in 2026 when you can buy CAT for cheap (probably limited time) is silly...

But that's just my opinion.

Agreed.

 

[AEAdam]

Funny when these subjects come up, we all, me included, start falling down the 6pt socket rabbit hole. If we really want to provide lessons learned for newer mechanics (amateurs or pros really), I would STRONGLY recommend starting with the tools that I many of us upgraded. In keeping with the OP's thread, here are my thoughts:

1. Especially for shade tree mechanics, I can't recommend the Snap on SHLF80A long 1/2" ratchet strongly enough. It's a true deal breaker. If you don't yet have an impact gun or can't use the one you have, this ratchet will get you out of jambs.
2. Tool truck quality bit sockets. Snap on's heavy duty removal (gold) Torx sockets are probably the best there are. And depending on where you are, they might save your *** on a job.
3. High quality (not necessarily snap on) long flex 3/8" ratchet. I had a craftsman "fully polished" version with a hard plastic handle that I loved. Still have it in my truck tool bag. But it reverses when you really lean into it. Don't go cheap on your long 3/8" flex. Go cheap on your short ratchets.
4. Tool truck quality 1/4" everything. I don't know where Icon is on 1/4". But I use an awful lot of 1/4" drive tools. Snap on makes beautiful 1/4" tools. I love their long flex (soft grip) ratchets and extensions. I believe the bigger the socket, the less important its tolerances are. If US are best quality, Taiwan are mid range and Chinese are lowest quality, I'd say choose US 1/4", Taiwan 3/8", and Chinese 1/2" and impacts. Spending big money for Snap on 1/2" drive sockets doesn't make sense to me.
5. High quality wrenches. Again, in keeping with the OPs recommendations, I say skip the bargain wrenches. Buy one good set of metric combos. You are paying for the open end. I like the ones with the anti-slip design. Icon is currently (could change) very good, but so is Tekton, Capri, Wright Grip and many others. I like the Snap on patterns, so I'd choose Icon if I had to start over. I like the proportions. Before I bought a ratchet wrench, I'd go for the "high performance" double box ends.
6. Swivel sockets, wobble extensions, universal joints are useful for modern cars. Having very shallow sockets is nice (like Snap On/Icon), as is mid depth. These sorts of tools are often noticeably better from the tool trucks.

So, hopefully my point is clear. I think 6 pt sockets were the last tools I upgraded from Craftsman. They should honestly be the last tools we discuss. There were times in my past where I'd wreck hardware with cheap 6pts. That had a lot to do with the condition of the vehicle, and quality of the OEM fasteners. Now the challenge has shifted to socket head (torx, allen, triple squares etc) screws and ACCESS.

 

[m.d.hunter63@hotmail.]

I'm on the opposite side of the fence, I have plenty of Snap on, Mac, Proto, Williams, Craftsman etc, my biggest issue is replacing tools. I don't have a tool truck that comes by, I don't have a Proto dealer near me. Starting buying Tekton, break a tool, send a picture and new tool in the mail. Obtw, haven't broken a Tekton tool yet.

 

[gtae07]

You get much rust down there in Georgia?

No, not even when I lived on the coast for 18 years.

 

[mikey03]

A good mechanic doesn’t blame his tools when he screws up.

Blaming tools those are my babies. I would never blame the tools.
I blame the car or the fasteners or the engineers who designed it or the last guy who worked on the car and messed it up.

 

[mikey03]

Y'all got expensive tastes...
Between my dad and myself, we've built and maintained two airplanes, a boat, and a shop, and maintained the houses and family vehicles

you own multiple houses multiple vehicles, a shop, a boat and TWO airplanes and I have expensive tastes?

 

[American Locomotive]

Yes, Snap-On tools are high quality, but IMO the value proposition for shadetree or hobby use just isn't there. The internet really has opened up a lot of options for tool buying, and there is no reason to just make your cohices Taiwanese big-box-store brands or Snap-On. There's a lot in between, and even tools that are better than Snap-On while being cheaper.

Sockets and ratchets from Japanese companies like Koken or KTC have all the same quality at a fraction of the cost, and are finished beautifully. You can even get wonderful German-Made Hazet and Stahlwille tool these days for quite a bit of a discount compared to the Snap-On equivalent. Companies like Wright make awesome wrenches, arguably even better than Snap-On, while being more comfortable (although that is more personal preference).

Where Snap-On's tools get their value from, is the convenience and warranty. Snap-On is a full-line up operation, with everything from hand tools to electronic diagnostic equipment. They (at least in the commercial and industrial world) also bring the store to you. It's super convenient being able to get all of your tools from one company, and having them take the truck to your place of work. Their warranty also goes well above and beyond being a "warranty". It's essentially just a perpetual free replacement plan, even if you abused and broke the thing on purpose.

All of those things have tremendous value in a commercial setting and justify the prices Snap-On demands. No one wants to tell a customer they need to wait two weeks while they send their tools in to repair center, when they could just call their Snap-On guy and have him swing by after lunch.

...but in a home setting? Almost none of that matters. Koken and KTC will definitely offer the same outright quality at a fraction of the cost, while the modern Taiwanese products like Gear Wrench will last a lifetime for hobby tinkering.

 

[T45]

Yes, Snap-On tools are high quality, but IMO the value proposition for shadetree or hobby use just isn't there.

Somebody calculated the CAT sockets are the ± same price as ICON...and cheaper than Koken.

 

[CoThG]

Somebody calculated the CAT sockets are the ± same price as ICON...and cheaper than Koken.

Last Black Friday, my local Cat dealer had a sale and this is what I picked up...

3/8 6 pt. metric shallow: regular price $52.32 sale price $31.39
3/8 12 pt. metric shallow: regular price $ 51.38 sale price $30.83
3/8 12 pt. metric deep: regular price $ 65.01 sale price $39.01
1/4 6 pt. metric shallow: regular price $66.38 sale price $39.83
1/4 6 pt. metric deep: regular price $44.75 sale price $26.85

 

[E46 Tony]

It is not the arrow, it is the Indian.
Basically invest in knowledge and competence doing the work, after if you need better tools you will know.

I own a mashup, not a single Snap On ratchet. Still manage to maintain a large fleet of vehicles just fine.

If tools don't matter then why does this forum exist? We can all just do everything we need with the 40 piece all in one tool kit from Walmart lol

I used that Craftsman junk for 20 years before I started upgrading, but go on and tell me more about how I lack knowledge and competence.

 

[swsman]

If tools don't matter then why does this forum exist? We can all just do everything we need with the 40 piece all in one tool kit from Walmart lol

I used that Craftsman junk for 20 years before I started upgrading, but go on and tell me more about how I lack knowledge and competence.

If you are half serious, forum exists for enthusiasts to exhange information, also it is a marketing tool - much like any other social media.

Nowhere did I say I am all in with Craftsman, I have sockets from Tekton, Astro Tools, 90s Craftsman, Icon, and also old impact 1/2 drive sets that date back to 2004 - purchased at HF (SAE and Metric). These are still in use when called upon.

Ratchets are Tekton, Carlyle, Astro Tools.

My go to screwdrivers are PB Swiss.

Cordless I am primarily Milwaukee M12 Fuel and M18 Fuel, have a few DeWalt tools as well.

Wrenches, from older USA made stuff, Capri, some others, including Craftsman ratcheting combo set I bought before Sears shut down - SAE and Metric sets that still perform great.

SnapOn I have two sets of slip joint pliers and I quite like using them, have the 5" and 9" model, other go to pliers are Knipex for Twin Grip and 8" Cobras. Lots of other stuff there for specialty work.

Only other SO tool I own is a deadblow ball peen hammer (40oz I think), it cost a pretty penny vs Icon but I decided to splurge some. No regrets.

So as you can see, blind brand loyalty is not very important to me. Never will be.
I purchase what best meets my present need/budget.

And majority of the tools I own have been amortized into cost of the work versus paying someone else, as I prefer to DIY as much as possible.
I pay cash as I go, no need to overextend myself, applied that same philosophy to many other aspects of my life.

Again it boils down to, it is not about what you have, it is what you are able to accomplish with it.

I will agree on having the appropriate tool makes the project/repair come together much smoother vs reinventing the wheel.

 

[Professor Gascan]

I did the overwhelming majority of the maintenance on my 1.8t GTI for 20 years with a Husky mechanics tool set just fine. 3 standard size ratchets and a 1/2" breaker bar were as fancy as my drive tools got. Did it stop me from doing any of the fixes I attempted over the years, no. Would they have been a lot easier had every one of those Husky tools been SO, I doubt it. I'll tell you what would have though, fixed and flex head ratchets of varying lengths and the same for wrenches.

All those things and more are available for pennies on the dollar compared to high end brands and be just as functional. The only reason I've upgraded and expanded the tools I have is to avoid having to mess with anything I don't have to on my now 20+ yo car. If a $20 dollar flex head ratchet helps me avoid messing with and possibly breaking a NLA plastic fitting or connector that's seen a gajillion heat cycles, then here is your $20 good Sir or Madam.

My tools are definitely a mishmash of mid to lower tier brands and I don't feel like I'm making my repairs any harder with what I've got. If I could go back in time to give myself any consumer advice at all, it would have been to buy a Toyota or a Honda. VW can shove every single one-time use torque to yield bolts right up their ***.

If your tools are making you money I could see the justification, but my tools are for saving me money. That way I can buy more man toys to that need maintaining.

 

[AEAdam]

It is not the arrow, it is the Indian.
Basically invest in knowledge and competence doing the work, after if you need better tools you will know.

I own a mashup, not a single Snap On ratchet. Still manage to maintain a large fleet of vehicles just fine.

If tools don't matter then why does this forum exist? We can all just do everything we need with the 40 piece all in one tool kit from Walmart lol

I used that Craftsman junk for 20 years before I started upgrading, but go on and tell me more about how I lack knowledge and competence.

How can anyone argue with the importance of knowledge? Of course its important. And I know there are many here who can do really fine work with really **** tools. And for the record, I'm absolutely impressed. And no, I'm not kidding. I've talked about my elder brother who I lost a few years ago to Leukemia. He was 59. Dull knives just cut better for him. He just had that touch. I'd be willing to bet money some of you reading have the exact same gift. But I wouldn't describe what my brother had as either knowledge or competance.

The difference between rounding fastener heads or shearing their shanks isn't knowledge that you can gain from reading books, GJ posts, or watching YouTube videos. You need to be able to sense how much torque is too much. And there's nothing at all easy about that. I think it can only come with lots and lots of practice and probably a lot of time either making mistakes or with a torque wrench.

I feel kinda bad about the position we find ourselves in so many threads where someone like me has to reply to some gifted mechanic's advice and tell that person his/her advice is terrible. That person has been fixing Ferraris with tools he keeps in a 5 gallon bucket of dirty water. "You don't need a toolbox" "E torx? I remove those with my teeth. I knocked out one of my molars and the gap perfectly fits a E18." How do you argue with that. But for 99.9% of GJ readers, its terrible advice.

If you are starting from scratch, and especially if you are young and committed, buy nice tools. And try hard to think about prices in terms of the rest of your life, not what some firm in China is willing to lose on tools. A ratchet that will perform well and last a lifetime is worth forgoing a dinner out or 2. Sockets are worth more than your cable bill. If you are buying sets of tools that cost less than dinner for 4 at McDonalds, you realy can afford better.