And no hammers !?Not all orange handles?
2/10
And no hammers !?Not all orange handles?
2/10
Thanks for the tip. Even just tapping on the probe with my finger is loud.Those are very useful BUT don't stick those ear pieces into your ears, resting in the bit behind the earholes will do.
Not listening for heartbeats here. You'll soon learn what I mean.
I've wanted one of these 1/4 set s for a while but couldn't stomach the cost. I was watching one on eBay , NOS , watched the price drop to around $100 then finally got one. Still a bit rich for this I feel but I doubt I can get it for less than this.
Like my 1/2 ratchets , this is 3 positions , on/lock/off. That's the main reason I wanted it.
COO Germany as per the packaging but I don't see the COO stamped on the sockets so I'm going to assume the actual sockets are either Taiwan or South Africa as neither of those plants label COO on sockets.
The 12mm skip is annoying though. That's the only skip.
You should take a look at Koken. I think they have a deserved rep as the tightest fit between the socket and the anvil for both their regular and especially their Z series. Their sockets are still noticeably tighter when I pair them with some Tekton ratchets.As someone who likes Gedores wrenches ,sockets sets and tools in genral , This set is a dissapintment.
The ratchet is great , I like these ratchets but the sockets fit the same as the Gedore red sockets do , a little on the loose side. On inspection , the chrome satin chrome finish might be a little different , the krnurling is different but I swear these are the same socket and the lack of COO stamped on the socket makes me think so even more.
The fit is completely different to my German and South African 3/8 and 1/2 sets which have a very precise fit to everything. The packaging says " made in Germany " and that this was NOS so I was hoping that I was going to get either German or SA sockets but that isn't the case here.
In cases like this , COO and the accurate representation thereof matter as you know what to expect , well , did anyway.
This is not a $200 socket set ( I paid a little over half of that ) I just as well could have only bought the ratchet and used any 1/4 sockets. I hope they don't start doing this with the 3/8 and 1/2 sets too
Any suggestions on 1/4 sockets that fit more precisely ? That don't wobble around too much ?
Hazet is (arguably) the best 1/4 sockets of any brand, any price...Any suggestions on 1/4 sockets that fit more precisely ? That don't wobble around too much ?
Don't know why I never think of Hazet.Hazet is (arguably) the best 1/4 sockets of any brand, any price...![]()
Hazet is (arguably) the best 1/4 sockets of any brand, any price...![]()

What’s the difference between the “spoon tip” and the “contour tip”?
Those 1/4” stubbies are super tempting, especially for the price. Be sure to let us know how they are, please
Those 1/4” stubbies are super tempting, especially for the price. Be sure to let us know how they are, please
Getting anything off their flyer ?
Getting anything off their flyer ?
Yea I was eyeing the xl pick set. Last flyer I got the 2 for 1 bundle on the ratchet screwdriver set/1/4 wrench setNot this month. Flyer 4 started this week and features a 6 piece XL pick and seal removal set for $109.99 The handles are larger than this set, and double the price, which is why I opted for the smaller set. That and I already have a set of MAC hook/picks.
I'm waiting for some USA impact sockets to hit the flyer again. He has a nice set of 1/4" drive metric USA wobble impacts, but the price is over $400. I cringed.
My only conclusion is the curvature of the tip.What’s the difference between the “spoon tip” and the “contour tip”?
That was a really good price on those too.Yea I was eyeing the xl pick set. Last flyer I got the 2 for 1 bundle on the ratchet screwdriver set/1/4 wrench set
new thin wrenches thanks to "YOU PEOPLE"
What’s the difference between the “spoon tip” and the “contour tip”?
Up to this point I had gotten away with only a 22mm wrench.I have that job in my near future, am trying to resist over-buying the tools for this DIY job (in my case).
Mike
Up to this point I had gotten away with only a 22mm wrench.![]()
Yep. Also got the Mac USA pocket screwdriver (no clip thoughThat was a really good price on those too.
I have to be careful. I have a bad habit of buying tools I don't necessarily need just because it's a "good deal", Lol.

It's all about access.
I've been able to use a 22mm wrench in the past. Not sure I remember ever using any sensor tools in the past.
However I replaced the cats on my car last week and I had to use a sensor crowfoot for the front cat/exhaust manifold assembly. A 22mm wrench just wouldn't work. It did however work for the secondary cat underneath.
First time on the Snappy truck since December...
Sounds like the opening of a Confession (or maybe AA meeting?)... seems appropriate, LOL.
At least where I live (rust belt), O2 sensors tend to be very rusted and corrosion bonded. So a crowfoot (access) and regular impact-type O2 sockets with a wire split are by far the most useful for getting them off. It can take some hammering to get them free. I am not sure more is needed beyond that. Maybe a pro doing a lot of them would find some of the angled wrenches and ratchets useful in some situations. But they are probably not needed. In my limited experience, they are often too stuck to use a regular open-end wrench without a good chance of rounding the mounting hex and slipping. I never had much luck with penetrants helping ... plus they are right by the CAT so you do not want to get that in the pipe (some cars have a downstream CAT after the downstream O2 sensor also).
Once you cut the wires, you can also just use a box wrench.Seems like the best / fastest way to remove stuck ones is to just cut the wire off at the sensor and use normal impact sockets (with heat, etc. as needed, and of course be careful not to damage threads).