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Matco triple bay. Bought it!

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mike93lx

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Good Morning Mike!

All non drying greases and oils will attract dirt. Many of us do not maintain/service toolbox slides. So they get nasty and start moving slowly.

A better question is why put anything on them at all?

WD40 is absolutely a lubricant. It's just not a great one. WD-40 is essentially a light mineral oil, not unlike Kerosene in an aerosol spray bottle. Internet lore says "it's not a lubricant because WD stand for "water dispersant"". That's true. It was marketed that way, but that doesn't change what it is.

3 in 1 oil came from my home state of NJ! The 3 is "cleans, lubricates, and protects" just like the "special" CLP Breakfree oil you can pay crazy money for in a gun store. It too is just mineral oil.

You can use 3 in 1. Everyone should have 3 in 1 in their toolbox. I think WD-40 is probably used by guys who occasionally reapply it. Maybe the aerosol helps dislodge old dirty oil. And it helps you get oil in spots where you need it.

I'm sure some here would recommend SuperLube. SuperLube is really not an amazing grease. There are plenty of better greases. The advantage of SuperLube is that it's a full synthetic (and its conveniently available, where some industrial greases are only sold in tubes or 5 gallon tubs). So your drawers won't be stiffer in freezing temperatures. But if that's not a concern, then any other grease would work fine. If your box is essentially stored inside, and doesn't get exposed to any elements, dust, pollen, saw dust, grinding dust etc etc, then it probably doesn't matter what you use to lube your slides.

To be honest, dry film lube is probably the "right" thing to do. WD-40 makes a lot of sense when you think about reapplying it to flush debris out. If the only thing WD-40 did was blow out dirt, it would be worth it. But that's not all it does. It will leave an oil residue behind.
With these slides clean, they definitely don't roll smoothly, so they need something. A spray of wd40 may make them briefly roll smoothly, but it won't last and I have no desire to regularly be spraying drawer slides. While wd40 can provide some lubricating properties, it is absolutely not a long term solution. I can spray a door hinge with it and it will definitely quiet down, for a little while. That's not the kind of thing that I feel like is the right solution for this purpose.

My garage is not the dirty environment that most people have for shops...I don't do wood or metal working in it at all. It's the main entry path for my house and we also have a fridge and freezer out there that we use a ton, so I'm not worried about them getting nasty.

I'm really not inclined to improvise and certainly don't know more about drawer slides than accuride
 
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mike93lx

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Speaking of Internet myths...


@mike93lx new slides have some sort of white grease.

**** I've saved (ironically WD-40 breaks down crusty/dirty slides well) I've used a dry lube. Used to get the Teflon one, since that's pretty nasty I switched, would have to check can. Grease collects way too much sawdust for me
White grease is what I'm going back with.

NLGI2 white lithium

I don't doubt at all that dry lube can work well

Internet myths... Can wd40 lubricate? Yes. Can water lubricate? Also yes. Do people call water a lubricant? Not in my experience.

I think wd40 is improperly used as a lubricant quite often and is rarely the right choice for that purpose. That's what I am personally thinking about when I say it isn't a lubricant.
 
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Mr_B

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White grease is what I'm going back with.

NLGI2 white lithium

I don't doubt at all that dry lube can work well
I've used spray lithium grease on all 3 of my used Matco boxes that sit in a daily Auto repair shop and I not getting any issue with them getting gummed up or overly dirty so in particularly clean home shop environment you going have no major issues and using what makes notable improvements is the main focus .
If you leave drawers open a lot in a dirty/dusty shop perhaps you going suffer but I not seeing any concerns in like 5 to 10 years of real world workshop use from it .
You don't have to go overboard with it but on old slides it really a case of use what & of a quantity that repeatedly for long term has functional gains .
As I mentioned in an early post Matco slides is a concern on used boxes and you really got look/test in person to evaluate them well before concluding what you pay for a box & what you willing on gambling can sort with cleaning, refurbishing/replacing .
 
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mike93lx

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I've used spray lithium grease on all 3 of my used Matco boxes that sit in a daily Auto repair shop and I not getting any issue with them getting gummed up or overly dirty so in particularly clean home shop environment you going have no major issues and using what makes notable improvements is the main focus .
If you leave drawers open a lot in a dirty/dusty shop perhaps you going suffer but I not seeing any concerns in like 5 to 10 years of real world workshop use from it .
You don't have to go overboard with it but on old slides it really a case of use what & of a quantity that repeatedly for long term has functional gains .
As I mentioned in an early post Matco slides is a concern on used boxes and you really got look/test in person to evaluate them well before concluding what you pay for a box & what you willing on gambling can sort with cleaning, refurbishing/replacing .
I'm good with the balance of cost and effort in this box. A project like this gets me to do something new, solves for a need and I end up with a product that should serve me essentially forever. It also teaches my kids that putting in some effort is worth it and my daughter has been helping with the cleanup.

5 to 10 years of "real workshop" use is probably equivalent to the next 30 years for me. I use my stuff, but I'm not rough on it and don't spend tons of time in the garage.
 

Lassen Forge

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Internet myths... Can wd40 lubricate? Yes. Can water lubricate? Also yes. Do people call water a lubricant? Not in my experience. I think wd40 is improperly used as a lubricant quite often and is rarely the right choice for that purpose. That's what I am personally thinking about when I say it isn't a lubricant.

It's not - it's a petroleum based water displacer. Back in the old Tow Service days (some 30+ years ago), we would mix WD-40 with 15-40 motor oil at about a 50/50 mix in a spday bottle - the WD would displace moisture (solving electrical gremlins temporarily) and allow the oil to migrate into, say, cable housings or the corroded bushing or whatever, and the motor oil would lubricate whatever it was.
 
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mike93lx

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It's not - it's a petroleum based water displacer. Back in the old Tow Service days (some 30+ years ago), we would mix WD-40 with 15-40 motor oil at about a 50/50 mix in a spday bottle - the WD would displace moisture (solving electrical gremlins temporarily) and allow the oil to migrate into, say, cable housings or the corroded bushing or whatever, and the motor oil would lubricate whatever it was.
But, but, but it says lubricant on the bottle, so it must be a lubricant and anyone saying it isn't is just parroting an internet myth!

😉
 

Mr_B

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I'm good with the balance of cost and effort in this box. A project like this gets me to do something new, solves for a need and I end up with a product that should serve me essentially forever. It also teaches my kids that putting in some effort is worth it and my daughter has been helping with the cleanup.

5 to 10 years of "real workshop" use is probably equivalent to the next 30 years for me. I use my stuff, but I'm not rough on it and don't spend tons of time in the garage.
I think you done good on this box, It a very good price for 85 series deep box as they not easy come across even at higher used pricing .
Indeed is a great lesson to your kids and a good sense of achievement for yourself, you will really enjoy using that box partially due to how you acquired it & revived it .
Advertised with full details and good images you likely get 2K for it no drama, it even be worth pretty much what you paid decade down the road, next to no real deprecation really and more so seems you sort of guy who looks after his stuff ...
Get some liners in it, got a top surface sorted, load it with tools and enjoy using it, obviously update us with some photos as that a used tool box junkies duty lol ...
 
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mike93lx

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I think you done good on this box, It a very good price for 85 series deep box as they not easy come across even at higher used pricing .
Indeed is a great lesson to your kids and a good sense of achievement for yourself, you will really enjoy using that box partially due to how you acquired it & revived it .
Advertised with full details and good images you likely get 2K for it no drama, it even be worth pretty much what you paid decade down the road, next to no real deprecation really and more so seems you sort of guy who looks after his stuff ...
Get some liners in it, got a top surface sorted, load it with tools and enjoy using it, obviously update us with some photos as that a used tool box junkies duty lol ...
Definitely will. Plan is to restore drawer function first then move to liners, top and new legs. I already have the liner sizes mapped out (I can't find rolls of the right width but figured out a combination of two sizes that will work).
 
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mike93lx

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Got it on the first try! About 20 minutes to model and 15 minutes to print in PLA, including calibration

McMaster doesn't have the rivet size I need, so this is modeled with a larger one. I'll remake these in nylon once I order a roll and get the rivets on hand.

8031.jpg
 

badmatt

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Lithium or anything PTFE based is what I’d use for the slides.

Congrats on the killer box at a killer price. Cant wait to see what it looks like finished up!
 
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mike93lx

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OK, I fibbed. Yes, the first one clicked in and probably would have worked, but why not make it better?

I forgot about a couple tabs on the bottom that register in slots cut into the rail, so I added them and thought that maybe I could skip the rivet and just model in a stud. I'm curious if these will stay put well enough to not need the rivets. It clicks in nicely and doesn't wiggle

One more running right now and then I think I am ready to print a bunch off and test in place.

8037.jpg

8039.jpg8040.jpg
 
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mike93lx

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Maybe leave the stud a little long and just add a drop of red locktite?
I'll have to see how it going in use. I'm inclined to think it won't need anything more as the round parts lock it in pretty well and my usage won't be harsh.

I could also make the stud extra long and use heat to mushroom the end, like a rivet...
 

Buckgnarly

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Superlube is a great slide lube Ive used on a bunch of boxes, and the new (unfortunately NOT Accuride) Snap On slides I just got warrantied come with it on it or at least something like it. I would not use lithium, I've cleaned up a few old boxes where that **** has dried up in them.
 
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Zrexxer

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Hey Mike, are you willing to share the 3D models? Or have you uploaded them anywhere like Thingiverse/Printables/MakerWorld etc?
 
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mike93lx

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Hey Mike, are you willing to share the 3D models? Or have you uploaded them anywhere like Thingiverse/Printables/MakerWorld etc?
How much ya offering???


😁

Happy to share them. I haven't posted yet, but was planning to throw them on printables once I confirm operation, which should be this weekend. If you want the step file in the meantime, shoot me a pm with your email address
 

Zrexxer

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Hey by all means, put them on Cults3D and charge for them. I've spent enough hours going back and forth doing trial and error in a CAD program to know that sometimes it's just better to buy the creative work of someone who's already worked it out!
 
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mike93lx

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Hey by all means, put them on Cults3D and charge for them. I've spent enough hours going back and forth doing trial and error in a CAD program to know that sometimes it's just better to buy the creative work of someone who's already worked it out!
Just joking. Getting paid wouldn't **** but I'm happy to share it
 
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mike93lx

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Yes, I modeled all of the drawers, with proper spacing, and started adding in the sliding joints.

No, i don't have a problem.

I'm thinking something like this for a hutch. I'd like the back panels easily removable, maybe with doors, and am thinking about using 80/20 extrusions for the framing. The boxes representing the AMS units include clearance height to open, so i may lower the top a bit as this will be a little tight to my garage door when it's open

I'm hoping to get the rest of the drawers cleaned up, the slides lubricated and everything reassembled this weekend. Assuming that happens, then its onto ordering drawer liners and making a decision on the leveling feet. Parts are about $140 (coupling nuts, leveling feet and new bolts) plus $70 in filament (thinking PLA-CF)

1774709438827.png
 
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mike93lx

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@Zrexxer the guides fit great... We'll see how they hold up

8067.jpg

Ended up needing 6

One slide is not working, so I left the 10" bottom right drawer with 3, which will work fine for my needs.

A few drawers in the left bank plus the top two were working well enough that i cleaned and lubed them in place. I'm using superlube for everything.

Planning to clean the final 6 slides tomorrow and then onto the top. A buddy has a couple decent size butcher block scraps, so I'll see if I can make that work.
 

PCustoms

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