Matco triple bay. Bought it!
- Thread starter mike93lx
- Start date
I just cut one a couple of days ago for my new-to-me box here at my 2nd house. Haven't sealed the edges yet. I added a piece of wood in the back to give a small lip so I don't push stuff off the back of the box into the dark abyss.
BTW I looked long and hard for a tool box a couple of months ago here in MA. I paid just a little less for this Mac than you got your new box for. If I had seen that Matco at that price I would've been on it like a rat on a pork chop. Nice snag!
Other options for top are likes of rubber stable mat, you can set this on ply and finish edges with either likes of black urathane adhesive sealant smoothed out or hardwood/alloy trim .
If you don't over bond the rubber it can be fairly easily replaced if gets too marked up over time, nice surface work with and easy clean, not good for all scenarios but it good on cost and can look like factory option if make bit of effort finishing it nice
If you don't over bond the rubber it can be fairly easily replaced if gets too marked up over time, nice surface work with and easy clean, not good for all scenarios but it good on cost and can look like factory option if make bit of effort finishing it nice
Right and middle banks are all clean and ready to be greased, I just need to get that and some 1/8 rivets. There are 5 slides that have broken plastic guides... Hoping matco can either replace them or help me with getting accuride to repair. I know that it was suggested to ask for full replacement, but the rest really just needed to be cleaned and will continue to work well for a long time with that done.
The casters feel like they need new springs and a good lube. I don't plan to leave them on, but I want to get them functioning well so I can use them if needed.
The casters feel like they need new springs and a good lube. I don't plan to leave them on, but I want to get them functioning well so I can use them if needed.
larry4406
Well-known member
Nice box Mike!
Wait….
I said that to a guy?
Wait….
I said that to a guy?
And then later in the conversation let it slip that you are actually in the area for some completely different reason and we're just around the corner anyway.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Rather than breathing all that brake cleaner remove and soak/brush them in a parts washer or just a tub of solvent.
That is a lot of slides to try and spray clean.
Looks like a super deal from here. The nicest thing about a second hand pro box bought right is that If you decide you don't like it you can easily recoup your money. Probably then some in your case due to the added value of making everything work well again.
That is a lot of slides to try and spray clean.
Looks like a super deal from here. The nicest thing about a second hand pro box bought right is that If you decide you don't like it you can easily recoup your money. Probably then some in your case due to the added value of making everything work well again.
No parts washer here. I'm going it outdoors and am mainly brushing them in a bucket with some brake cleaner at the bottom, then using a spray can to flush the out
I was also doing it outdoors on a breezy day. Other than feeling every cut on my hands when a glove would rip, it went well. Hoping to finish it all next weekend and put it back together
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
For cleaning slides, I picked up a piece of short piece of black sewer pipe and two test plugs from Home Depot. i added some kerosine and sloshed it back and forth to clean the slides, Works well, uses less solvent, and minimizes your exposure.
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
It really depends on how dirty the slides are and what lubricants the last owner used. Start at a 5 minutes and see what it looks like
+1 on cleaning slides in a plastic pipe, I used diesel in past mainly as had some old diesel with little other use for it.
I soaked them over night but that was because they had a lot of stubborn grunge in them.
this method mixed with a parts washer style scrubbing brush and compressed air work wonders for little cost and minimal solvent exposure .
Bit of brake clean can be handy as a final zap if soak not softened and loosened all of it .
I soaked them over night but that was because they had a lot of stubborn grunge in them.
this method mixed with a parts washer style scrubbing brush and compressed air work wonders for little cost and minimal solvent exposure .
Bit of brake clean can be handy as a final zap if soak not softened and loosened all of it .
These are pretty bad. The inner cages were completely locked up on many.
I won't say my process was perfect, but its working OK. I don't do stuff like this normally and don't have kerosene or diesel hanging around.
Unfortunately, the slides are discontinued and matco has no solution. I left a message for the warranty department at accuride and am waiting for a call back.
If they can't help, next choice is 3d printing the guides
These are pretty bad. The inner cages were completely locked up on many.
I won't say my process was perfect, but its working OK. I don't do stuff like this normally and don't have kerosene or diesel hanging around.
Unfortunately, the slides are discontinued and matco has no solution. I left a message for the warranty department at accuride and am waiting for a call back.
If they can't help, next choice is 3d printing the guides
What are the dims on the slides?
Should be able to find a replacement....
CMB41
Well-known member
I'm not sure that little plastic is replaceable though.
Depending on size there are probably other options too. Accuride has horrible consumer pricing IMHO
Anything is replaceable if you try hard enough
it's riveted on, so if I can get or make new ones, I can likely figure something out. That $100 price was for another brand... Comparable slides from accuride are almost $200.
I'd be surprised if I could get something that has the same attachment method. They slide into two slots and have a rivet on the front. I'm not in a rush, so we'll see. I also don't think the plastic guides are crical to operation, so I could relegate those to less used drawers
larry4406
Well-known member
If I recall, @LeonardY recently 3D printed some slide parts....These are pretty bad. The inner cages were completely locked up on many.
I won't say my process was perfect, but its working OK. I don't do stuff like this normally and don't have kerosene or diesel hanging around.
Unfortunately, the slides are discontinued and matco has no solution. I left a message for the warranty department at accuride and am waiting for a call back.
If they can't help, next choice is 3d printing the guides
nadogail
Well-known member
May you enjoy your "New To You" tool box in good health.
LeonardY
Well-known member
Are you just printing the stops? Are they hard or soft?
I printed just the bumper catches from TPU. I used TPU 95A.
LeonardY
Well-known member
I would assume the guides don't get a lot of load. You might be able to print them from ABS. Nylon would be better. Nylon-CF would be even better.
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
For reference, here is one thread on tool box slide bumpers
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/snap-on-kr1000-detents-stops.543681/#post-11075087
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/snap-on-kr1000-detents-stops.543681/#post-11075087
LeonardY
Well-known member
I don't think that CF would be abrasive as a guide. It would be harder on the nozzle.
The part looks well supported so CF is probably not necessary.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
Nice find on the box! I have been using the citrius degreaser from HF with a small plastic mason tub from HD. Makes a good poor mans parts washer & it cleans pretty good. For the top see if you can find some 1" baltic birch plwood 13 - 17 plies, machines well & makes a good shock absorbing top. Could always go with home depot butcher block or look on MP for someone selling a butcher block table, they usually go cheap.
Thanks. It's an odd size to use a countertop. 76x26.25 so an island top is deep enough, but most stop at 72".
If I can find a deal on a solid core door slab, that may work well, but I'm keeping an eye on MP for something else. Someone locally is selling large sheets of stainless. 1/8" on top of 3/4 ply could work well.
I had some scrap left over from a couple tables. So I end butted both sides perpendicular to the center.
Also I consider this top a consumable so it gets used big time and every few months I’ll fill the nicks and drill holes and give it a lite sanding. Right now is juuust about that time
I may do something similar as a buddy has scrap countertop, but it would require 4 pieces. There are solid core fire doors on MP for $100 and less, which would let me do it at once and even oversize slightly to get a little more work surfaceI had some scrap left over from a couple tables. So I end butted both sides perpendicular to the center.
Also I consider this top a consumable so it gets used big time and every few months I’ll fill the nicks and drill holes and give it a lite sanding. Right now is juuust about that time
Menards has what you need but but you don't have Menards, I believe.
Yeah, no menards within hundreds of miles.Menards has what you need but but you don't have Menards, I believe.
Around here, I'd get "butcher block" at floor and decor, but they don't have the right size.
I really tight on height... Tight enough that the extra inch thickness of a door/counter vs a sheet of ply could be a problem, so I need to measure to confirm. This box will sit out in the middle of my garage, under the overhead door, and I want to build a hutch to go over the printers. Need to measure this weekend to confirm
Accuride says to use wheel bearing grease
5 Steps To Clean And Lubricate Your Drawer Slides
Revitalize your drawer slides with Accuride's step-by-step guide on cleaning and lubrication. Ensure smooth operation and extend the life of your slides.
www.accuride.com
Why would anyone use wd40? It's not a lubricant
Last edited:
Good Morning Mike!
All non drying greases and oils will attract dirt. Many of us do not maintain/service toolbox slides. So they get nasty and start moving slowly.
A better question is why put anything on them at all?
WD40 is absolutely a lubricant. It's just not a great one. WD-40 is essentially a light mineral oil, not unlike Kerosene in an aerosol spray bottle. Internet lore says "it's not a lubricant because WD stand for "water dispersant"". That's true. It was marketed that way, but that doesn't change what it is.
3 in 1 oil came from my home state of NJ! The 3 is "cleans, lubricates, and protects" just like the "special" CLP Breakfree oil you can pay crazy money for in a gun store. It too is just mineral oil.
You can use 3 in 1. Everyone should have 3 in 1 in their toolbox. I think WD-40 is probably used by guys who occasionally reapply it. Maybe the aerosol helps dislodge old dirty oil. And it helps you get oil in spots where you need it.
I'm sure some here would recommend SuperLube. SuperLube is really not an amazing grease. There are plenty of better greases. The advantage of SuperLube is that it's a full synthetic (and its conveniently available, where some industrial greases are only sold in tubes or 5 gallon tubs). So your drawers won't be stiffer in freezing temperatures. But if that's not a concern, then any other grease would work fine. If your box is essentially stored inside, and doesn't get exposed to any elements, dust, pollen, saw dust, grinding dust etc etc, then it probably doesn't matter what you use to lube your slides.
To be honest, dry film lube is probably the "right" thing to do. WD-40 makes a lot of sense when you think about reapplying it to flush debris out. If the only thing WD-40 did was blow out dirt, it would be worth it. But that's not all it does. It will leave an oil residue behind.
Last edited:
Speaking of Internet myths...
@mike93lx new slides have some sort of white grease.
**** I've saved (ironically WD-40 breaks down crusty/dirty slides well) I've used a dry lube. Used to get the Teflon one, since that's pretty nasty I switched, would have to check can. Grease collects way too much sawdust for me
@mike93lx new slides have some sort of white grease.
**** I've saved (ironically WD-40 breaks down crusty/dirty slides well) I've used a dry lube. Used to get the Teflon one, since that's pretty nasty I switched, would have to check can. Grease collects way too much sawdust for me