Agreed. This is why I only purchase quality tools like Snap-On and Koken. If, on the off chance something does happen, I know they have an iron-clad warranty.
Question about a 18 in flex head ratchet
- Thread starter Sbl777
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alinc100
Well-known member
Oh God yes. I can buy 8 Die Hard ratchets at $32 each if they break( and they have a lifetime warranty) before I equal the retail cost of 1 Snap On SHF80A at $270.00. Since I am not serviced by a dealer ,I will have to call and be mailed a replacement under warranty. Currently Advance Auto is 10 blocks from here. mentally I'd say you may have a higher rate of failure with the Die Hard over the SnapOn , but since the OP isn't even sure what he would use it for I'd say chances of breakage/failure are pretty small. On the other hand if you are lucky like me you find Snap On SHFL80A's for less than half of retail while walking the dog.
Snap-on is like a dream that will never come true. My wife buys me everything I want, and she’s the one who brings in the money at home. I’m an artist, so my income is somewhere between low and nonexistent. But I save a little money by doing car maintenance, repairs, and so on. And I also do repairs around the house. But I can’t take advantage of her by buying such expensive professional-grade tools that I can’t justify. I think the best quality tools I have are Gearwrench, Tekton, Sunex, Grey Pneumatic, and others at that level. I’ve had them for a few years now! I just bought a 1/4-inch Gearwrench set to have that size covered, but I’ve never liked using 1/4-inch. I had a few loose sockets and a Dewalt ratchet that I can now sell. With my impact wrenches, I almost never use a breaker bar, but to get the UCA’s off the Tacoma, you need a longer breaker bar or a 1/2-inch ratchet that’s at least 18 inches long.
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To me, it doesn't make sense to overuse 3/8“ ratchets when there are 1/2” ratchets available. I already have 1/2“ impact sockets for my 1/2” and 3/8“ impact wrenches. That's why I've basically never needed a 1/2” flexible-head ratchet. But I was wondering if it might be useful to have one, in addition to the 26" breaker bar. I’ve seen that the Capri has a good price, warranty, and excellent reviews.
In 3/8”, I have a 12“ Gearwrench Flex and a standard 18” Tekton.
Do you use the breaker bar more than the 18-inch ratchet? That’s my problem. For the work I do, I don’t want to buy stuff just for the sake of it! I don’t have the space or the money. I just want to have what a guy in my situation needs to make the job easier, faster, and less physically demanding, especially since I have arthritis. I like tools, but I have to be realistic and know my limits.
Professor Gascan
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2024
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- 178
Put me in the no camp as well. I've got the Diehard 1/2 flexhead mentioned above, and while it's nice to have, for everything I've used it for a breaker bar would do just fine.
If you need the ratcheting action for reach or access I could see the ratchet being nice to have, but since you already have a bb and impacts I'd skip it.
If you need the ratcheting action for reach or access I could see the ratchet being nice to have, but since you already have a bb and impacts I'd skip it.
If your impact wrenches fit everywhere you need to use them, then you have less need for ratchets. Mine do not and I have Milwaukee stubby, mid and high torque as well as right angle. Most of my use is on German cars.
Breaker bars get the job done, but the lack of ratcheting makes them a pain to use when space is limited. In the projects I do, I can’t always get much of a swing in the space available, so it would take multiple fittings with a breaker bar. And sometimes the hex inside the socket won’t match up with the bolt or nut head in that limited space. A ratcheting head makes it easier to get the socket onto the bolt or nut.
You can put a cheater pipe on the end of a shorter ratchet for more leverage. It works but I would rather have a long ratchet.
The best argument for the breaker bar is that the initial loosening torque may exceed the ratchet’s rating. Do you want to risk your $50 ratchet? I do not know what ratchets are rated for and do not recall seeing torque maximums on ones that I have bought.
sparky 1971
Well-known member
I forgot all about this one because I only use it at work and it's not very often that an electrician uses 1/2" drive. I also have the 14" Tekton flex and really like it. I considered putting it in my shop box but with the SK being pretty much the same thing, decided against it. That should be much more budget friendly and if more leverage is needed, well, that's what pipe is for. I know I am in the minority, but I just find 18" to be too much for most use cases, especially when one has never been needed; 14-15" is what I find to be the sweet spot.
Some enjoy the satisfaction of using a premium quality tool.
Honestly, I don't know if I'll need a ratchet like the one I asked about. I'm not a mechanic, and I don't know **** about cars. But for years I've done 90% of my own repairs because I'm not afraid to tackle them, and now with YouTube tutorials, it's easier than it was back in 2000. I've replaced suspension parts, radiators, brakes, engine mounts, alternators, etc.
Basic stuff! With what I have, I’ve never needed that wrench. But you guys know more about cars than I do, and if you recommend a ratchet like the one mentioned because it’s useful—even though I already have one—I can buy it. But if what I have is enough, then I’ll save the money, which is pretty tight right now.
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Thanks a lot for the comment, man! That's a good point!
What you're saying makes sense. Good point! Especially if it's worked well for you—that's what counts.
nh_yota
Well-known member
I have a HF 18" flex-head 1/2" ratchet that I use mostly for lug nuts and differential fluid changes on my Tacoma since all of my large sockets are 1/2" drive. My 24" breaker bar is good for suspension work but most of the time I don't need something that long and I appreciate the ratcheting movement vs. the fixed position of a breaker bar.
To me it's worth the $20 I paid for it.
To me it's worth the $20 I paid for it.
I also have a 2015 Tacoma. I’ve installed and removed several suspension systems and lift kits. In the end, I left it almost stock and sold all the parts. Is the HF ratchet you have a Pittsburgh model? They have good prices, and it might be worth it for occasional use. Does it come with a lifetime warranty?
I'm guessing that if you put a 3' pipe on a Koken ratchet and break it, they're not going to give you a new one. Or hopefully they won't. They don't charge SO prices for a reason. But give it a try and let us know.
I, probably, had 8-10 18”ish 1/2” non-flex ratchets before I ever had a 18” flex. I still have almost all of them (I gave a few away). They are mostly SK’s (they are super common here), a couple Snap-on, a Proto, a Wright.
I consider an 18”x1/2” ratchet a pretty standard size… and the flex head is a better form factor of it.
Anyways… my point is… it has been a standard size ratchet since the middle of the last century.
Depending on where you live, you might be able to find a super clean 18”x1/2” ratchet for $5 or less at an estate sale or garage sale. It would be a lot harder to find a flex head version. I would find a fixed-head 18” ratchet, and see if you like using it.
I consider an 18”x1/2” ratchet a pretty standard size… and the flex head is a better form factor of it.
Anyways… my point is… it has been a standard size ratchet since the middle of the last century.
Depending on where you live, you might be able to find a super clean 18”x1/2” ratchet for $5 or less at an estate sale or garage sale. It would be a lot harder to find a flex head version. I would find a fixed-head 18” ratchet, and see if you like using it.
I don't abuse my tools. Their warranty says it's invalid if subject to "abnormal use". Here is the warranty language concerning cheater pipes...
- Never use pipes or other improvised attachments on handles to increase leverage.
Well that’s dumb
In Anglish, that translates to not "Iron-clad" and nothing like a tool truck warranty. Which is fine. But you equated SO and Koken's warranty as the same which isn't true.
AFAIK most of the Japanese and European manufactures consider warranty to be "defects in materials and workmanship". Basically, if it's junk out of the box, or maybe the chrome peels off next year and that's a warranty and you get a new one. You wear out a pair of pliers or a ratchet, or socket....in 5 years, you buy a new one. You break something, you abused it, you buy a new one. And I'm 110% for this, but this isn't the Snap On system.
alinc100
Well-known member
Some enjoy making payments on a Mercedes others will drive a pick up truck. Both will get you to the grocery store and back. I'd be willing to bet a dollar with a blindfold and gloves on ,and ten standard nuts and bolts you be hard pressed to tell the Snap On from the DieHard. Sadly I cannot test this theory as I have neither one.
To the OP : No you probably don't need one, especially if money is tight. You could just keep in in your memory bank next time you come across a stubborn fastener, the Die Hard, Capri, Snap On may help. You may do another suspension job and take the money you saved by DIY and reward yourself with a new tool. When I was doing a lot of woodworking/cabinet-making as a side hustle ,I'd buy myself a couple more clamps, a new saw blade ,etc with each job , now I have a lot of clamps.
CHI_Tool&Die
Well-known member
I use a breaker bar more than the super long ratchets, outside of my super long 1/4” stuff. But I’m also a weirdo cause my work habits are to use a breaker bar for everything and that moved over to my DIY habits.
I can tell the difference between a German luxury car and a full size domestic pick up truck. I was not wearing a blindfold so I am not eligible for the dollar, but I have a huge car payment and could really use it.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
If you have an 18" tekton 3/8 standard ratchet I would not buy the flex head. I would step up to a 24" 1/2 drive and then any heavy duty suspension work or wheel work would be covered. I have a snap on 24 flex head w/comfort grip that I have used professionally for years and it has never let me down even would I hung from it, and I am not skinny anymore. For personal car work I reach for my 24" 1/2 tekton with standard handle most often. Places that need a flex head and long handle have been very sparse compared to the need for a long handle. I have not used a breaker bar in 20 years now since the dual 80's came out.
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
This is GJ, you need the 18" in flex and locking flex and you ideally need the 24" plus version in flex and locking flex as well. We don't question it here, it is simply the way.
sparky 1971
Well-known member
And a high torque cordless impact wrench. And at least a 10 HP two stage 80 gallon compressor for a pneumatic impact just in case the battery is dead. Might as well upgrade the electric service to 400 amps and put in a generator at the same time. It's the Garage Journal way and makes me wonder how I've survived all these years.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
This doesn't apply greatly to the OP's needs, but I carry 3/8 and 1/2 drive QR locking flex head telescoping ratchets, as my logistics require portability and versatility. The 3/8 adjusts from 10-15" and the 1/2, 12-17".
I often extend them to break fasteners loose and then shorten to finish removal.
I often extend them to break fasteners loose and then shorten to finish removal.
For guys discussing merits of long ratchets, let’s do some math to see if it helps.
First, regarding breakers, the failure mode for Snap on “Dual80” ratchets is the same as breaker bars. Snap On’s Dual80 ratchets like my favorite SHLF80A are as strong as breakers. Whether that means breakers are obsolete or not is up to you.
Snap On’s 1/2” drive is good up to 750ftlbs. The SHLF80 is 26” long. Assuming you are holding the handle, that’s roughly a 2’ moment arm, so you can apply up to 750/2’=375lbs. I cannot hold 375 in one hand. Chances are you can’t either. Having a tool like this that you can safely apply a lot of force to without worrying it will come unglued is reassuring to me.
When you look at shorter ratchets, the limit load you can apply goes up because the moment arm is going down. For an 18” ratchet, roughly it would be 750/1.5’=500lbs. Point is, do you really get the same bang for your buck out of Snap on Dual80 18” ratchets?
Similarly, tooth count affects the rotation angle to get the ratchet to click. Do your shortest ratchets need super fine teeth if the distance it takes to make the ratchet click is small?
If you looked at this scientifically, I think you’d come to the conclusion I did. In terms of strength, only your longest ratchets need high strength. They absolutely can benefit from high tooth counts, but only to keep your hands in the strongest position for you. Back drag is pretty irrelevant for these ratchets.
Short ratchets really should have light back drag to help you get bolts started or extracted, but don’t need strength or particularly fine toothed heads. In the past, low back drag was produced only with fine teeth. I think Koken and Nepros have proven they can make low back drag ratchets with pretty coarse teeth.
Of course the other trick is to drop to the next lower drive size. Typically, lower drive sizes have smaller heads and lower back drags. So it could be that an inexpensive 1/4” ratchet has comparable back drag to a premium 3/8”.
I think more conversion kits, both 3/8 in 1/4” bodies and 1/2” in 3/8” bodies, should be available.
Talking about ratchets like one brand or design is superior is just ignorant. That said, Dual80 was designed as a compromise, one mechanism that does everything pretty well. But with so many others to choose from now, I’m not as convinced it’s best in every class. I would still choose (have chosen) dual80 for my long flexes. But my mind is open to all the other shorter ratchets. No way I’d spend Dual80 money on mid length tools I currently don’t use.
First, regarding breakers, the failure mode for Snap on “Dual80” ratchets is the same as breaker bars. Snap On’s Dual80 ratchets like my favorite SHLF80A are as strong as breakers. Whether that means breakers are obsolete or not is up to you.
Snap On’s 1/2” drive is good up to 750ftlbs. The SHLF80 is 26” long. Assuming you are holding the handle, that’s roughly a 2’ moment arm, so you can apply up to 750/2’=375lbs. I cannot hold 375 in one hand. Chances are you can’t either. Having a tool like this that you can safely apply a lot of force to without worrying it will come unglued is reassuring to me.
When you look at shorter ratchets, the limit load you can apply goes up because the moment arm is going down. For an 18” ratchet, roughly it would be 750/1.5’=500lbs. Point is, do you really get the same bang for your buck out of Snap on Dual80 18” ratchets?
Similarly, tooth count affects the rotation angle to get the ratchet to click. Do your shortest ratchets need super fine teeth if the distance it takes to make the ratchet click is small?
If you looked at this scientifically, I think you’d come to the conclusion I did. In terms of strength, only your longest ratchets need high strength. They absolutely can benefit from high tooth counts, but only to keep your hands in the strongest position for you. Back drag is pretty irrelevant for these ratchets.
Short ratchets really should have light back drag to help you get bolts started or extracted, but don’t need strength or particularly fine toothed heads. In the past, low back drag was produced only with fine teeth. I think Koken and Nepros have proven they can make low back drag ratchets with pretty coarse teeth.
Of course the other trick is to drop to the next lower drive size. Typically, lower drive sizes have smaller heads and lower back drags. So it could be that an inexpensive 1/4” ratchet has comparable back drag to a premium 3/8”.
I think more conversion kits, both 3/8 in 1/4” bodies and 1/2” in 3/8” bodies, should be available.
Talking about ratchets like one brand or design is superior is just ignorant. That said, Dual80 was designed as a compromise, one mechanism that does everything pretty well. But with so many others to choose from now, I’m not as convinced it’s best in every class. I would still choose (have chosen) dual80 for my long flexes. But my mind is open to all the other shorter ratchets. No way I’d spend Dual80 money on mid length tools I currently don’t use.
alinc100
Well-known member
Ok OP how about this: a 1/2" ratcheting adapter. Less money than a ratchet, fits on your existing breaker bar: https://www.google.com/search?q=1/2...CCbACAfEF9RaJGldn-UY&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
OK, guys, I don't want to leave this hanging. I want to thank everyone for their suggestions, advice, and comments. I'll definitely take some ideas from all this, but it'll have to wait because yesterday, while eating pork rinds, I messed up a tooth and a crown came loose. So the ratchet will have to wait! I wish you all the best of luck, and my apologies for the comments I read but didn't reply to.
Shoreline_
Well-known member
I have a 27" flex head ratchet and it's killer I use it all the time. More than my breaker bars.
Lol, you have such an elegant way of answering a 50-cent question with a five-dollar answer.
I broke my 17" flex head 1/2" drive ratchet yesterday, pawl snapped in half. I picked up a 17" non-flex this morning until I can get the broken ratchet warrantied. I worked in the forklift repair industry, you get to see what your tools are really made of.
What size sockets you use for forklifts in that 1/2 drive
Retired dozer fixer
Well-known member
Have any of those ever been used? Must have a money tree in full bloom in your backyard. I worked on heavy equipment for over 40 years with less than half of that collection. Could I have used 1 or 2 more sure but rasing a family and paying for a roof over their heads kind of limited that idea. Don’t get back up on your high horse and get all defensive. People who brag about what they have are usually the ones that don’t have to earn a living with what they already have. Envious maybe but definitely going to lose any sleep. Fire away…… I got thick skinOh you betcha...
Most have been used. They don't look like it because I take meticulous care of my possessions. No money tree... just a career that allows me to purchase most anything I want without regards to cost. In fact, another ratchet incoming when I meet my Snap-On dealer later this week.
Thank you for stating that.Not everyone is poor.
I used a 30" breaker bar 1/2" with a 14mm hex to crack free the bolt, other side was a 24mm wrench on a nut. I switched over to my 17" ratchet 1/2" with a 14mm hex socket, that's when it broke. It looked like 3 bolts had red loctite on.
Retired dozer fixer
Well-known member
Wasteful not poor. Enjoying a robust retirement thank you very muchNot everyone is poor.