Need Advice on Attaching Hinges to a Small Access Door

[oscarsnapkin]

This is a door next to my steps that provides access to a small, side attic. It had a piece of paneling on it, which I was in the process of replacing. When I removed the old panel it revealed that the door had split on the hinge side, and the hinge screws started to pull out of the door. I am going to cut a new piece of plywood to use for the door, but I am unsure how to make sure that I attach the hinges properly so the door is not lopsided. I don’t know if I should remove the hinges from the door frame and bench-mount them to the door? What’s the best way to make sure the gaps are even between the door and frame? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, as always!

 

[Lynden]

That's a real hack job. I'd carefully remove and save the existing trim, reconstruct the opening and install a new door as shown in this video.

 

[The Cobbler]

those hinges are quite small for the application in my opinion.
there's several ways to accomplish a new door that fits nicely. if the opening is nice & square it's easy. if not , one way would be to cut it large and plane it to fit . or build in place a 1x frame to fit the opening and face it with 1/4 ply .

 

[FrankLee]

What size is the existing door?
Post a couple more pictures of the door relative to the floor and stairway. And with the door open.

 

[oscarsnapkin]

That's a real hack job. I'd carefully remove and save the existing trim, reconstruct the opening and install a new door as shown in this video.

That’s quite nice, but way more than I’m looking to get involved with. I appreciate your response, nevertheless.

those hinges are quite small for the application in my opinion.
there's several ways to accomplish a new door that fits nicely. if the opening is nice & square it's easy. if not , one way would be to cut it large and plane it to fit . or build in place a 1x frame to fit the opening and face it with 1/4 ply .

The hinges have been on there since the 70’s so I’m planning on keeping it as-is. It’s not something that gets excessive use. I was just looking to spruce up the appearance. I thought I’d be able to reuse the plywood door that was there.

 

[oscarsnapkin]

What size is the existing door?
Post a couple more pictures of the door relative to the floor and stairway. And with the door open.

The door is about 21” X 32”. It’s kind of hard to get a picture of since I can’t get back far enough. I was thinking I would use something as a straight edge on the new plywood and draw a line matched-up to where the hinges are on the existing door. That should work as a guide to keep the hinges in-line with each other.

 

[The Cobbler]

I dressed up some plain slab doors with 1/4 ply to make them look shaker style. you could cut off some of that split plywood & replace it with solid material. then cover the cut line with something like my picture shows

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks.


32" wide is a standard door size.

You could get a used door from ReStore or FB and cut it at the stiles to fit 22" high. The raised panel(s) would look good between the rails and stiles. Use a real door knob and hinges.

Any insulation concerns?

 

[PCustoms]

This is a door next to my steps that provides access to a small, side attic. It had a piece of paneling on it, which I was in the process of replacing. When I removed the old panel it revealed that the door had split on the hinge side, and the hinge screws started to pull out of the door. I am going to cut a new piece of plywood to use for the door, but I am unsure how to make sure that I attach the hinges properly so the door is not lopsided. I don’t know if I should remove the hinges from the door frame and bench-mount them to the door? What’s the best way to make sure the gaps are even between the door and frame? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, as always!

A new sheet of plywood is fine for the door, but that is complete wrong hinge/wrong way to mount a hinge.

Get something that screws into the face or get a euro hinge and use 3/4 ply.

 

[PoorUB]

I can not tell much about the door, but plywood with a 2x2 frame glued to it would stiffen it and give you a decent thickness to mount hinges. Screwing into the "end grain" of plywood is guarantied to fail.

 

[DGersic]

What you should have is a wrapped hinge, like these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-2-Pack-1-2-in-Satin-Nickel-Self-Closing-Flush-Cabinet-Hinge/50419380?store=59&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tah-_-ggl-_-PMAX_TAH_000_Priority_Item_Omni-_-50419380-_-local-_-22862735715-_-&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23536714732&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W-Rf9QbmJIHZ-29MJ4LUlN0M&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiu_z9P3vkwMVvzQIBR0criNwEAkYASABEgLU0fD_BwE

But that’s going to be a PITA to do without rebuilding the door frame and a new door.

Inset doors like this are also something of a pain. To set the hinge location, you shim the door in the opening, then final mount the hinges. Playing cards are the traditional shims for this.

If this isn’t used much, and you were happy with it before noticing the plywood split, I’d be tempted to fix what you have, and leave the hinges alone.

Get a syringe and some wood glue. I like Tightbond II. With the hinge removed, add as much glue inside the plywood as you can, then clamp it and let it set. Drill a couple of 3/8 holes through the plywood and plug with dowels, and more glue. I’d go 1/2” in from the edge, in line with the screw holes, then pre-drill and get some new screws that will go through the dowels. That should make the door solid enough for occasional use. Cut a piece of 1/4” plywood to fit the door opening. More glue and clamps, laminate it to the visible side of your door. Finish with paint to match that surrounding trim.

 

[Prospecter]

If this isn’t used much, and you were happy with it before noticing the plywood split, I’d be tempted to fix what you have, and leave the hinges alone.

Get a syringe and some wood glue. I like Tightbond II. With the hinge removed, add as much glue inside the plywood as you can, then clamp it and let it set. Drill a couple of 3/8 holes through the plywood and plug with dowels, and more glue. I’d go 1/2” in from the edge, in line with the screw holes, then pre-drill and get some new screws that will go through the dowels. That should make the door solid enough for occasional use. Cut a piece of 1/4” plywood to fit the door opening. More glue and clamps, laminate it to the visible side of your door. Finish with paint to match that surrounding trim.

This is exactly what I would do, too. There are some jobs that do not require the full on GJ Solution. Your door will look better than it did and you can move on to something else. (There will ALWAYS be something else!)

 

[oscarsnapkin]

Thanks everyone for the advice. Just finished up with this today. I used a new sheet of plywood and reused the old hinges. I figure it lasted a few decades, so if I do half as well with the new door I’ll be happy. All I have to do now is fill the holes in the casing, put the new trim piece on the stairs, and remove/replace carpet and my 70’s staircase will be a thing of the past. The nasty, green paneling in the ‘before’ photo was throughout about a 1/3 of the house when we bought it. This was the last of it. I saved a piece that I will put in a frame, along with a remnant of the **** carpet and a piece of the gross ceiling tiles we had in our foyer. Thanks again.

 

[PCustoms]

Looks good, definitely should have sprung for the $6 set of hinges

 

[oscarsnapkin]

Looks good, definitely should have sprung for the $6 set of hinges

I looked at Home Depot and there was nothing similar. They barely had anything as far as hinges, mostly stuff for cabinets. I would’ve preferred them as it seems they would be a more secure mount. I can probably swap them out fairly easily if I ever have the desire.

 

[Prospecter]

Looks very nice.

Avocado, Harvest Gold, Ceiling Tiles, Paneling, and **** Carpet. Such a great time to be alive. We thought they were improvements at the time.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The new door with the white beadboard paneling looks nice. Well done.

I wouldn't have put screws in the edge of plywood but if it rarely gets opened, it should last a long time.

 

[CJM8515]

piano hinge would be cheap and spread the load out better, or add another hinge in the middle.