Installed New Outdoor Faucet, Leak at Joint, What to do?

[YoshiMoshi3]

I installed a new outdoor faucet. Have done this on indoor ones a few times for sinks. Something like this I installed for outside. The older one was the same length, but a different brand, it was not shutting completely and believed to be kind old from previous home owners.


I used plumbers tape around the threads. Went around clockwise (i.e., the direction you have to turn it, to fasten it into the water line inside the house), roughly twice. Got it installed with the anti-freeze mechanism facing up. After turning the water back on I noticed that I have a very small leak. Maybe a single drop or two per hour at the joint that has the blue arrow. I have put a plastic cup there for the mean time. Came here to see if anyone has any suggestions on how to achieve zero leaks. I have tightened it pretty good with open end combination wrenches. Not really comfortable tightening it any more. Defiantly cannot tighten it another 360 degrees and get another revolution out of it to get the anti-frost mechanism at the top.

Thank you for any help!

 

[Qualitytools]

Twice is not enough turns with Teflon tape, I would go 4 to 5 times with a combination of Teflon paste.
try that and let us know the outcome.

 

[johnre]

I guess I’d first try using more tape, as suggested, and if that doesn’t stop it, do one of two things:

1. Skim off some of the siding where the flange contacts the house, so more turns are possible.
2. Get the next longest fixture, and put in a spacer, so again more turns are possible.

 

[MovingAlong]

I've started using pipe thread sealant instead of tape.. been happy with the performance so far.

 

[MileHighRover]

You should wrap your Teflon tape the opposite direction you turn the pipe to tighten.

 

[mike93lx]

I have tightened it pretty good

Not enough.

4 wraps of Teflon, some thread sealant and tighten the **** out of it.

 

[Qualitytools]

You should wrap your Teflon tape the opposite direction you turn the pipe to tighten.

You’re jokin, right!

 

[rlitman]

Twice is not enough turns with Teflon tape, I would go 4 to 5 times with a combination of Teflon paste.
try that and let us know the outcome.

With the white tape, 4-5 turns is best and a bit of pipe dope doesn't hurt. With the thicker tapes (red, yellow, gray & blue; I have no experience with green, but believe it's the same), 3 turns is better.

However, while I do still use teflon tape in places where I can turn-until-tight, a valve body is not one of those places, since you have to turn until the valve is aligned, and then hope for the best. Teflon isn't so great here. What you want is Loctite 55. It's a serious game changer! It takes about 9 turns of the string. I try to do 5 turns in the thread roots and then four crossing over, but it's supposed to be fine with them all criss-crossing.

 

[Shiftless]

Don’t feel like starting over?
In my experience, in time that very minor leak will seal itself up. In the future, follow above suggestions. Give it some time before taking it all apart.

 

[mike93lx]

since you have to turn until the valve is aligned,

I thread on a short piece of pipe with a female adapter then solder/press at that stub to not have to mess with alignment.

You generally can also solder directly into these frost free silcocks. Just pull the handle and stem, and solder away

 

[308guru]

Tape (wrapped correctly), AND pipe thread sealant. Always.

There is absolutely a difference in pipe tape too. The garbage sold for $0.35/roll is not worth using, you must use a thick, quality tape.

 

[Beerhippie]

Put a bucket with a little dish soap in it under the drip and forget about it. The soap will keep mosquitos from breeding in any water that accumulates.

 

[rlitman]

...Teflon isn't so great here. What you want is Loctite 55. It's a serious game changer! It takes about 9 turns of the string. I try to do 5 turns in the thread roots and then four crossing over, but it's supposed to be fine with them all criss-crossing.

I forgot to mention the best parts.

First, you're allowed to tighten and then back off up to a quarter turn. Can't do that with teflon.

But the other thing about it that saved my bacon a few months back is this. I was working in the tank of a wall hung toilet where the hose from the shutoff valve to the fill valve burst. A replacement hose was stupid expensive, and the outlet of the shutoff was 3/8" male NPT, so making my own hose using a 1/4" PEX faucet supply line seemed like a good idea at the time. The hard part was that the valve stem was barely reachable by fingertip, and there was no good way to wrap it in tape. I found a 3/8" ******, loosely wound the correct amount of string so I could cut it to length, tied a slipknot in that and lasso'd the valve stem, and then was able to finish the wrap with tweezers.

I thread on a short piece of pipe with a female adapter then solder/press at that stub to not have to mess with alignment.

You generally can also solder directly into these frost free silcocks. Just pull the handle and stem, and solder away

They're all options. These valves are typically 3/4" male NPT on the outside and 1/2" CTS female on the inside, but I really don't like to solder them in place. Aside from needing to gut the valve to solder it, it makes future replacement all the more difficult. I've always sweated on 3/4" female adapters and screwed them in. With enough dope and some tape, it's always worked for me, but Loctite 55 makes it way too easy.

 

[Beerhippie]

What you want is Loctite 55.

I use LocTite 542 thread sealer/locker when clocking is important--gauges, valves, etc. It usually needs some heat to get the fitting apart.

 

[dnschmidt]

You’re jokin, right!

NO, he is not. That's the correct way to use teflon tape. You wrap it opposite to the direction of tightening so that it isn't removed when tightening. If you hold a pipe in your left hand and tape in your right you wrap the teflon tape clockwise around the threads. Better yet use pipe dope like the TRU-BLU mentioned above.

 

[AEAdam]

NO, he is not. That's the correct way to use teflon tape. You wrap it opposite to the direction of tightening so that it isn't removed when tightening. If you hold a pipe in your left hand and tape in your right you wrap the teflon tape clockwise around the threads. Better yet use pipe dope like the TRU-BLU mentioned above.

Clockwise sounds like the direction of tightening. I feel as tho counter clockwise would be opposite the direction of tightening? So when you screw the fitting on is it pulling the teflon tighter or unwinding it?

Thanks @YoshiMoshi3 for posting this. I have several of these to do in the coming weeks and didn't know any of this. I'm inclined to take @mike93lx advice and just solder mine. But I think done right, these are 12" long, terminating well inside the conditioned space. I have at least one under stairs where it won't be super accessible. My walls are so thick with exterior insulation, I won't be able to pre-attach elbows.

 

[mike93lx]

Clockwise sounds like the direction of tightening. I feel as tho counter clockwise would be opposite the direction of tightening? So when you screw the fitting on is it pulling the teflon tighter or unwinding it?

Thanks @YoshiMoshi3 for posting this. I have several of these to do in the coming weeks and didn't know any of this. I'm inclined to take @mike93lx advice and just solder mine. But I think done right, these are 12" long, terminating well inside the conditioned space. I have at least one under stairs where it won't be super accessible. My walls are so thick with exterior insulation, I won't be able to pre-attach elbows.

Before you swap, see if you can get a replacement stem. If you do swap, get a good brand that is repairable like woodford

 

[pcrov]

I've started using pipe thread sealant instead of tape.. been happy with the performance so far.

Same. This stuff is magic. Love it.

 

[KnurledNut]

Three wraps of blue monster tape and a light coating of dope. Install tape like you are screwing a fitting on. Critical: pitch it slightly so water drains out. If you’re in a cold climate, a longer assembly is often more protection. Don’t leave a hose hooked up when its freezing temps. I prefer not to solder these.

 

[dnschmidt]

Clockwise sounds like the direction of tightening. I feel as tho counter clockwise would be opposite the direction of tightening? So when you screw the fitting on is it pulling the teflon tighter or unwinding it?

Thanks @YoshiMoshi3 for posting this. I have several of these to do in the coming weeks and didn't know any of this. I'm inclined to take @mike93lx advice and just solder mine. But I think done right, these are 12" long, terminating well inside the conditioned space. I have at least one under stairs where it won't be super accessible. My walls are so thick with exterior insulation, I won't be able to pre-attach elbows.

Think of it as a mirror image. You're winding the tape clockwise around the pipe but when you're putting the pipe into the fitting it's counterclockwise to the rotation of tightening. It's harder to describe than to do.

 

[5ubtle]

Think of it as a mirror image. You're winding the tape clockwise around the pipe but when you're putting the pipe into the fitting it's counterclockwise to the rotation of tightening. It's harder to describe than to do.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

Lots of mixed opinions here. I was referring to the direction of tightening. I guess we have to get a frame of reference. It gets confusing with nuts and bolts when they are upside down and at awkward angles which way is lefty loosely and righty tighty. I use the left hand rule. I put my left hand in an "L" shape at the head of the bolt or nut I want to loosen from the perspective of looking perpendicular, vertically away from the head of the bolt or nut. I then rotate my "L" counterclockwise from that perspective, this is the direction of Lefty Loosy.

For this faucet. I applied the same perspective, from the view of being perpendicular to the knob to open and close the valve. I rotate the tape clockwise around the threads from this perspective, in the tightening direction. Is this correct way to apply tape?

I see some say to use thread sealant and tape. Is sealant the same thing as "dope"? Can I apply to much or to little sealant?

 

[mike93lx]

For this faucet. I applied the same perspective, from the view of being perpendicular to the knob to open and close the valve. I rotate the tape clockwise around the threads from this perspective, in the tightening direction. Is this correct way to apply tape?

If facing the knob, your tape should run counter clockwise.

Forget terminology and perspective for a minute. When you screw on the fitting, is the fitting pushing against the tail of the tape? If so, you have it backwards

 

[rlitman]

...I see some say to use thread sealant and tape. Is sealant the same thing as "dope"? Can I apply to much or to little sealant?

You apply dope to the male threads only (for typical pipe sizes), and don't need to completely fill the threads in. If you use too much, it just pushes out as the joint closes, so long as you're not doping the female side.

 

[Firebrick43]

I use LocTite 542 thread sealer/locker when clocking is important--gauges, valves, etc. It usually needs some heat to get the fitting apart.

542/545 is great for hydraulic and air fittings but should not be use for potable water. That is 567.

 

[Beerhippie]

If facing the knob, your tape should run counter clockwise.

Forget terminology and perspective for a minute. When you screw on the fitting, is the fitting pushing against the tail of the tape? If so, you have it backwards

What we have here is a failure to communicate.

542/545 is great for hydraulic and air fittings but should be use for potable water. That is 567.

I don't use 542 for potable water or product contact. For that, I mostly use pipe dope. I'm sick of Teflon tape clogging stuff up with little shreds of itself. Which is something no one seems to have mentioned: Hold the tape back about one thread from the end of the fitting to help prevent it shedding into your water/air/whatever. Tape also plays very badly with the wort we make into beer.

 

[carlaisle]

Visually inspect the male and female threads. If either is sufficiently damaged, you will never get a leak free joint. Assuming they are not obviously damaged, something is wrong if tape won't seal the threads. Too little tape, poor quality tape, tape wrapped the wrong direction, incompatible moon phase, etc. Tape is wrapped in the opposite direction from which the fitting in question will be installed. Since you will turn this clockwise to install it (as viewed looking at the handle end), wrap the tape in the opposite direction. The wrap count method only applies to the good, crazy thick tape. That thinner than cellophane junk that is available everywhere at 50 cents per thousand feet or whatever work fine, you just need to wrap it 10 - 12 times. Whatever tape you use should never extend past the threads. Various sealants and dopes will also work, but are more likely to leak/cause problems for the inexperienced.

 

[KnurledNut]

Lots of mixed opinions here. I was referring to the direction of tightening. I guess we have to get a frame of reference. It gets confusing with nuts and bolts when they are upside down and at awkward angles which way is lefty loosely and righty tighty. I use the left hand rule. I put my left hand in an "L" shape at the head of the bolt or nut I want to loosen from the perspective of looking perpendicular, vertically away from the head of the bolt or nut. I then rotate my "L" counterclockwise from that perspective, this is the direction of Lefty Loosy.

For this faucet. I applied the same perspective, from the view of being perpendicular to the knob to open and close the valve. I rotate the tape clockwise around the threads from this perspective, in the tightening direction. Is this correct way to apply tape?

I see some say to use thread sealant and tape. Is sealant the same thing as "dope"? Can I apply to much or to little sealant?

Thread sealant is what I called dope. I should have been more specific. This goes on after the tape, just a thin coat like you are painting it.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

Got it. So go in the opposite direction of the tighten direction. Do 4-5 revolutions of tape. Should probably avoid the "cheap tape" that is 50 cents a roll. Use sealant as well in addition to tape. Do I got this correct now? I did not go around enough times, and went around in the opposite direction, if I am understanding correctly now?

 

[Fav Onefour]

Got it. So go in the opposite direction of the tighten direction. Do 4-5 revolutions of tape. Should probably avoid the "cheap tape" that is 50 cents a roll. Use sealant as well in addition to tape. Do I got this correct now? I did not go around enough times, and went around in the opposite direction, if I am understanding correctly now?

Sounds like you got it.
Last item, don't turn it backward. When you are close to the last stretch of tightening, take is slow. If you still over turn past the point you want for alignment, don't turn backward to align. Take the fitting apart again and start over with new tape/dope.

 

[nmk_61802]

Threads have gotten so bad, I never use white tape anymore.... Only Pink or other heavy duty tape.

 

[CraigStu]

I got away from the which direction do I wrap it problem. I hold the tape still, end of tape on the threads, and rotate the pipe in the direction I will turn it to tighten it.

 

[Fav Onefour]

I got away from the which direction do I wrap it problem. I hold the tape still, end of tape on the threads, and rotate the pipe in the direction I will turn it to tighten it.

Nice and simple.

In some tight spots when I'm standing on my head I question the direction and can't spin the pipe. My go to reasoning is this, will tightening the fitting pull the loose end tighter?

 

[LopezBart]

Rectorseal #5 is what I use on metal pipe... steam, potable water, hydraulics, ... Teflon tape is what I use on plastic pipe fittings.

 

[Codyboy]

Threads have gotten so bad, I never use white tape anymore.... Only Pink or other heavy duty tape.

Gotten like recently)
Pipe threads have sucked for a very long time.

Back in around 2000 I had toe replumb a tub valve and since the original was all galvanized I went back with that. Did t know any better.
Anyway it wouldn't seal up.
So I walked over across the road and asked the plumber. He came over and looked at it , tried too but still wouldn't seal . I had used only tape, and he used tape and dope.
Took it all back apart. Cleaned it up yo look at the threads. Horrible China junk.

Bought some new 90s and *******, still china bIt at least this time they worked ok.

 

[mm08822]

I don't bother with tape on metal threads, just pipe dope.

In this situation the new threads are out of position with the old or a sloppy cut obviously.

I would take it apart, re-dope it and add some sewing thread into the male threads.
Put a reference line on the fitting/pipe so you know from inside what the outside position is.
Tighten it back up and give it a test drive.

The only other way is cut the pipe it screws into, tighten it up real good, rotate sillcock accordingly, solder the new coupling. The coupling doesn't care about position on either side of it.

 

[Jackfre]

Two turns seems optomistic regardless of what tape/dope you use. Another thing to consider is the condition of the of the receiving female thread. I regularly run a thread chaser into the fitting to clean it up some so you get a good mating of the threads.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

I'm happy to report with the blue monster tape and sealant, I was able to redo the job and no more leaks. I went around 4-5 times in the loosen direction, and no more leaks! Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[BurtEggley]

I'm happy to report with the blue monster tape and sealant, I was able to redo the job and no more leaks. I went around 4-5 times in the loosen direction, and no more leaks! Thanks for the help everyone!

Awesome. Thanks for letting everyone know it was successful.

 

[manwithtools]

I went around 4-5 times in the loosen direction, and no more leaks!

Please understand that your description of "the loosen direction" is very misleading for someone visiting this thread in the future. There is only one correct direction for pipe tape application; that is to wind it clockwise around the male pipe thread when viewed from the end of the pipe being wrapped. Please see post #28 in this thread.