Help design/choose the right lift!

[deltaphisig]

I originally envisioned a 9k or 10k 2 post and 4 post, but was worried about wife getting pissed off having to use the garage to park cars when not in use, so I thought a rotary smartlift would be a reasonable compromise. Architech came up with with SL210-MP8, which I was not familiar with be seems to not have the benefits of a 2 post with arms/pads.

 

[ScaldedDog]

Search the forum for the word "Smartlift" and you'll find lots of posts - many of them by me. I've been fortunate to have had a couple of them, both model SL210-RA. That's the one with the flat pads, and I bought a set of extensions and frame adapters for the trucks. IMHO, they are the best lifts around for working on vehicles. They aren't perfect for parking over - and, of course, you can't park much of anything under one - but are still much easier than parking between posts.

Here's a thread that shows a Testarossa on my first one (post #6) - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-smartlift-vs-traditional-2-post-lift.135430/

You can see what they look like with the arms extended and the extensions in place below. If you are going to park a vehicle on it, this would be the positions of the arms. The pad is roughly 2" above the floor.



Here's an alternative use. You can see a little better what it looks like raised without a vehicle on it



I'm happy to answer any questions about my setups, and there are a few other folks with them on here, as well.

Mark

 

[deltaphisig]

My apologies. I was rushing with the kiddo screaming in my ear as I posted. I am aware of the benefits of the in ground lift and all about it. Originally asked my architect to plan around the SL210-RA but he found the SL210-MP8 as a more suitable unit for the space and constraints. That unit has lift pads instead of lift arms, and I think it would be less useful than the RA unit with the lift arms. 8k would suffice for now, but will be inadequate should I ever get my dream truck (F450...just over 8000 curb weight). Keeping in mind that my wife will likely park on that side of the garage when I don't have a car on the lift.

Adding to this... my area has a high water table and my builder is worried about water intrusion into the pit and having to drill well points to draw water out. Builder recommended the Rotary XA14 lift which he has installed in another homeowners garage and don't require any extra excavation to speak of.

Now, the limitations of the XA14 are significant and I feel like i'd be happier with a maxjax in addition to the 4 post at that point.

Thoughts from those who have been down that road?

 

[Yankeefarmer]

Take a look at the Advantage DX-11000, with bridge jacks. Expensive, but no excavation/water worries. I find the four posts to be a complete non-issue when parking under the raised lift, because you’re not going to hit a post without first hitting the garage door opening when driving in, and there’s nothing obstructing opening a car door like with a two post lift.

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[racecougar]

I find the four posts to be a complete non-issue when parking under the raised lift, because you’re not going to hit a post without first hitting the garage door opening when driving it, and there’s nothing obstructing opening a car door like with a two post lift.

Agreed. I park under one daily. It's a total non-issue.

 

[CraigStu]

I helped do a front lower balljoint on a 2005(?) Mustang on my friends 4 post lift w/ bridgejack. Never again. That dang ramp is in the way bigtime and has sharp HARD edges when a prybar slips and your hand slams into it.

 

[racecougar]

I helped do a front lower balljoint on a 2005(?) Mustang on my friends 4 post lift w/ bridgejack. Never again. That dang ramp is in the way bigtime and has sharp HARD edges when a prybar slips and your hand slams into it.

That same job was a cake walk on a 2004. Were you using one of those huge alignment lifts?

 

[CraigStu]

That same job was a cake walk on a 2004. Were you using one of those huge alignment lifts?

No but one thing I see was different. The lift channels were formed more like huge stamping in a wide 'U' shape w/ a flare at the top outer edges. I think so a tire might rub along it w/o being cut. Yours seems to be made w/ nice rounded off outer corners. But still compared to working for 20+ years on 2 posts where everything forward of the rear edge of the wheel well is hanging in open air......

 

[racecougar]

No but one thing I see was different. The lift channels were formed more like huge stamping in a wide 'U' shape w/ a flare at the top outer edges. I think so a tire might rub along it w/o being cut. Yours seems to be made w/ nice rounded off outer corners. But still compared to working for 20+ years on 2 posts where everything forward of the rear edge of the wheel well is hanging in open air......

Sounds like a weird setup. Besides using the runways as a tool bench, another thing that made that job a breeze was using the bridge jack to raise the LCA's (compressing the springs) back up into place. Like I said, it was a cake walk with the lift and bridge jacks.

 

[ScaldedDog]

My apologies. I was rushing with the kiddo screaming in my ear as I posted. I am aware of the benefits of the in ground lift and all about it. Originally asked my architect to plan around the SL210-RA but he found the SL210-MP8 as a more suitable unit for the space and constraints. That unit has lift pads instead of lift arms, and I think it would be less useful than the RA unit with the lift arms. 8k would suffice for now, but will be inadequate should I ever get my dream truck (F450...just over 8000 curb weight). Keeping in mind that my wife will likely park on that side of the garage when I don't have a car on the lift.

Adding to this... my area has a high water table and my builder is worried about water intrusion into the pit and having to drill well points to draw water out. Builder recommended the Rotary XA14 lift which he has installed in another homeowners garage and don't require any extra excavation to speak of.

Now, the limitations of the XA14 are significant and I feel like i'd be happier with a maxjax in addition to the 4 post at that point.

Thoughts from those who have been down that road?

Got it. I'm not much help, then, but perhaps a little:

Water table - I can't see water intruding into the closed fiberglass shell of a Smartlift, and you'll get an alert if it does. OTOH, I don't know what installation issues the presence of water around it might cause, either. If one is still on the table, I suggest talking to the local Rotary installer. They'll know what, if any, issues they've had installing Smartlifts into dealerships in your area.

Capacity - My Excursion is just over 8000lbs (several hundred pounds heavier than the published curb weight, despite no real modifications). My 10K Smartlifts haven't had any trouble lifting it, but I *would not* lift it with lighter capacity lift.

4 vs 2 vs scissor - I'm zero help here. The fact is every choice is a compromise, and the only opinion that matters is your own. As you've seen just in this thread, one man's pain-in-the-neck is another man's convenience. Figure out what kind of work you're going to do, and on what, and make the choice that suits you.


Mark

 

[deltaphisig]

Definitely going to have a 4 post on "side b". Question is becoming, thanks to comments here, smart lift or maxjax on "side a". If I run into issues with build team than I am thinking I am just going to have them pour some heavy pad sections so I can decide what I want to do on "side a" later.

 

[ScaldedDog]

Is this a home you are building, or a detached structure?

Not to spend your money, but one of best things about our last two places was that daily driver parking was separate, and closer to the home entrance, from the work area. In one case it was a 2-car that was part of the house, and we built an attached 3-car for a shop (and my DD, but I didn't care). In our current place, my shop is a detached structure, and we park in the house garage.

It isn't always feasible, if course, but if it is, or if it might be, its worth a look.

Mark

 

[deltaphisig]

detached structure. Would love a 3 car , but not feasible in the city and our 0.3 acre lot--city busting our balls about the current footprint as is.

will have additional outside parking, which my wife is inclined to use becasue she comes and goes frequently anyway. This will end up 99% hobby space

 

[Demon69]

The right lift you say . Sounds like you be trollin the various disciples

 

[deltaphisig]

The right lift you say . Sounds like you be trollin the various disciples

Ha! Tried to appease the masses by going with a 2 and 4 post plan right off the bat!

 

[Demon69]

How about one lift and leave the other side clear, say for long term project or other stuff where you need some space?

A mechanic buddy has one of these, single bay and gets on really well with it. Ive done front struts on a mini on it, up on scissors with runways lowered off, easy job.
He uses a large axle stand/s if he wants to lift a an axle for brakes if needed, place high stand and lower off the lift.

 

[kngelv]

I'm having trouble understanding your layout. It looks like the main area is only 23' x 21'. That's pretty tight for two lifts. What is going on with all those little cubicles around the interior perimeter? There are seven man doors in there. Where atre you putting stuff associated with working on vehicles. It looks far too small to me.

James

 

[LX-Markham]

What’s your goal with

…but was worried about wife getting pissed off having to use the garage to park cars when not in use,

How tall are you and your wife?
My wife came up with the brilliant idea of a double wide 4-post. Basically, my hobby car and entire workshop goes up into the attic when not in use, and wife can easily park her car with no obstructions.



would fit nicely in line with your double garage door

And yeah, no problem doing front end work on a 4-post with a bridge jack.

 

[Demon69]

And yeah, no problem doing front end work on a 4-post with a bridge jack.

I love a bridge jack but they can get in the way if its your only option, and depending on setup some lack stroke (8 - 10") which can be a problem if you want clearance enough over the runways to use a high torque or bar bottom arms etc. Nothing that cant be overcome easy enough tho