@Bob Heine .....something about hindsight! hahaha
Certain cars are simply wild! and as much as a 906 is a beautiful car, now it wouldn't even be fun to drive, not only from being a hot box, but its too valuable
Below 265 SQ/FT 10' x 22' Project – ‘Officina di Attrezzi Veloce’
- Thread starter Trapps
- Start date
All workspaces below 265 squarefeet.
@Bob Heine .....something about hindsight! hahaha
Certain cars are simply wild! and as much as a 906 is a beautiful car, now it wouldn't even be fun to drive, not only from being a hot box, but its too valuable
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mike, I try not to do that -- my hindsight goes too far back. I was a mailman in 1963-4 and saw a guy working on a Mercedes Gullwing Coupe. He was really frustrated and mad about whatever he was trying to fix. I commented on how beautiful it was (I believe it was 1956) and he asked me if I wanted to buy it. I laughed and he responded with: "First person with $6,000 can take it away!" I ended up splurging on a rust-free '47 Ford tudor sedan for $300.
904s and 906s?
I took these at a local independent euro / race shop, Nikolas Motorsport. Its on Woodward Avenue just across from the M1 complex:
They are both stunning and the 906 is driven in special events. They are tiny.
_______________________________
Concrete is in. I'll call it a mixed bag; some things went great, and I have a few challenges to sort out. I had 3 hired guns to finish, two mud buggies and 2 drivers plus myself on a rake and generally coordinating things.
A timeline of the morning:
We dropped about 10.5 cubic yards (I ordered 11) of 6SK (4,000psi), air entrained concrete. Additives included 1#/Cu. Yd. fiber mesh and Midrange Water Reducer.
The price I paid for the mud, as defined above, was $231.25 / Cu. Yd. Add environmental fees, Fuel surcharge, taxes and Saturday delivery, the complete price came out to a whopping $2,961.38 or $269.22 / Cu. Yd. For reference, I am in Metro Detroit. I was unable to use my previous source as he didn’t have enough orders to fire up the plant on the day I need to pour. I went with a very large local supplier (15 local plants in south east Michigan).
The plan to pour the two outside sections first worked great. I had made a ‘door’ in the forms for a buggy to enter the center section which worked perfectly. We were aided by the use of tracked buggies with a rotating dump. These are awesome and I’ll never go back to a wheeled buggy. Truck to pour site was about 250’; having two buggies was absolutely the right call, we’d have timed out on the mud without that second buggy. We did add some water, 3 gallons, just past halfway through to keep the mud workable. 2 of the finishers started their gig while myself and the third finisher completed the pour into the walkway pads. The first brush strokes went down as the last pad was poured.
Weather, while very hot & humid, was overcast. That was a huge win. Still, a couple of hours later, I would find the first problem, a large birdbath:
I immediately called the finisher, and he had a few questions and suggested perhaps a problem with the forms. I pulled the level back out and took photos showing the issue.
Clearly the forms are OK as the bath is in the center of the slab and does not reach the edge even when completely full. In the second conversations he led with “we will make it right, even if I have to pull it out and re pour.” I trust the guy, but I also have some incentives for him to ensure I’m satisfied. I do have 3 other, much larger jobs lined up for him: my driveway, a friends driveway and a pole barn.
We ended up having heavy rains overnight, but by then it had set enough to not be an issue. Or so I thought. Because it didn’t drain or dry out a quite visible ‘stain’ has appeared.
*the above pics were taken after saw cutting on Monday
We talked about control joints, which I planned to cut Sunday afternoon and hoped that that might relieve the bird bath. That answer wouldn’t come until Monday morning as I was unable to cut the joints Sunday. Why. Because I put my trust in the Home Depot Rental crib. 2 saws, 2 expensive blades, and 3 hours later – on the hottest, most humid day yet this year - I was out of luck, patience and options. First attempt was a Makita 14” SJS with a masonry blade. I bought a new blade. After just a few inches the saw would jump itself up and out, causing some tear out and wonkyness.
Check all is tight, reduce cut depth from 1” to ½” and try again. Even worse results. OK, blade. Go buy a better, more expensive blade. Same results, more investigation. It seems like the saw motor is flexing in relation to the sled which changes the angle of the blade in the cut. Return the saw and rent an Edco walk behind. Get it home and unloaded, swap the new expensive blade onto the machine, and go! Great! For about 90 seconds or 4’. The saw dies. I pull it out and restart. OK. Plunge and move forward. Sputter and die. I returned the machine, and the Home Depot guy was good; he refunded everything except the premium blade which I wanted to keep. Now totally dejected and worried about these large slabs cracking, I soak them and then make plans for Monday. I’d drop off the buggies and pick up a walk behind at the same time, I could get it home and cut before 10am if all went well.
Another Edco machine, but this one was in very good condition and well maintained. I had zero issues and made the cuts in 2 passes ½” and 1½” which took just 20 minutes for the 68’
We kept it wet for the remainder of the day along with help from Mother nature. Tuesday I would strip the forms. Cut out a relief down the middle and the centers slipped right out...
Next up will be some site cleanup, including pulling all the stakes. I’ll add some filler stone and geotex to help mitigate weeds, and then add the decorative stone.
Sláinte!
I took these at a local independent euro / race shop, Nikolas Motorsport. Its on Woodward Avenue just across from the M1 complex:
They are both stunning and the 906 is driven in special events. They are tiny.
_______________________________
Concrete is in. I'll call it a mixed bag; some things went great, and I have a few challenges to sort out. I had 3 hired guns to finish, two mud buggies and 2 drivers plus myself on a rake and generally coordinating things.
A timeline of the morning:
- 8:45am – Crew arrival
- 9:30am – Truck due
- 9:45am – Truck arrival, check ticket, adjust slump
- 9:50am – First buggy
- 10:15am – added 3 gallons of water to maintain slump (5.5-6)
- 10:30am – Last buggy
- 11:15am - finishing and brooming complete
- 11:45am – clean up complete
- 11:55am – crew gone
We dropped about 10.5 cubic yards (I ordered 11) of 6SK (4,000psi), air entrained concrete. Additives included 1#/Cu. Yd. fiber mesh and Midrange Water Reducer.
The price I paid for the mud, as defined above, was $231.25 / Cu. Yd. Add environmental fees, Fuel surcharge, taxes and Saturday delivery, the complete price came out to a whopping $2,961.38 or $269.22 / Cu. Yd. For reference, I am in Metro Detroit. I was unable to use my previous source as he didn’t have enough orders to fire up the plant on the day I need to pour. I went with a very large local supplier (15 local plants in south east Michigan).
The plan to pour the two outside sections first worked great. I had made a ‘door’ in the forms for a buggy to enter the center section which worked perfectly. We were aided by the use of tracked buggies with a rotating dump. These are awesome and I’ll never go back to a wheeled buggy. Truck to pour site was about 250’; having two buggies was absolutely the right call, we’d have timed out on the mud without that second buggy. We did add some water, 3 gallons, just past halfway through to keep the mud workable. 2 of the finishers started their gig while myself and the third finisher completed the pour into the walkway pads. The first brush strokes went down as the last pad was poured.
Weather, while very hot & humid, was overcast. That was a huge win. Still, a couple of hours later, I would find the first problem, a large birdbath:
I immediately called the finisher, and he had a few questions and suggested perhaps a problem with the forms. I pulled the level back out and took photos showing the issue.
Clearly the forms are OK as the bath is in the center of the slab and does not reach the edge even when completely full. In the second conversations he led with “we will make it right, even if I have to pull it out and re pour.” I trust the guy, but I also have some incentives for him to ensure I’m satisfied. I do have 3 other, much larger jobs lined up for him: my driveway, a friends driveway and a pole barn.
We ended up having heavy rains overnight, but by then it had set enough to not be an issue. Or so I thought. Because it didn’t drain or dry out a quite visible ‘stain’ has appeared.
*the above pics were taken after saw cutting on Monday
We talked about control joints, which I planned to cut Sunday afternoon and hoped that that might relieve the bird bath. That answer wouldn’t come until Monday morning as I was unable to cut the joints Sunday. Why. Because I put my trust in the Home Depot Rental crib. 2 saws, 2 expensive blades, and 3 hours later – on the hottest, most humid day yet this year - I was out of luck, patience and options. First attempt was a Makita 14” SJS with a masonry blade. I bought a new blade. After just a few inches the saw would jump itself up and out, causing some tear out and wonkyness.
Check all is tight, reduce cut depth from 1” to ½” and try again. Even worse results. OK, blade. Go buy a better, more expensive blade. Same results, more investigation. It seems like the saw motor is flexing in relation to the sled which changes the angle of the blade in the cut. Return the saw and rent an Edco walk behind. Get it home and unloaded, swap the new expensive blade onto the machine, and go! Great! For about 90 seconds or 4’. The saw dies. I pull it out and restart. OK. Plunge and move forward. Sputter and die. I returned the machine, and the Home Depot guy was good; he refunded everything except the premium blade which I wanted to keep. Now totally dejected and worried about these large slabs cracking, I soak them and then make plans for Monday. I’d drop off the buggies and pick up a walk behind at the same time, I could get it home and cut before 10am if all went well.
Another Edco machine, but this one was in very good condition and well maintained. I had zero issues and made the cuts in 2 passes ½” and 1½” which took just 20 minutes for the 68’
We kept it wet for the remainder of the day along with help from Mother nature. Tuesday I would strip the forms. Cut out a relief down the middle and the centers slipped right out...
Next up will be some site cleanup, including pulling all the stakes. I’ll add some filler stone and geotex to help mitigate weeds, and then add the decorative stone.
Sláinte!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job on the concrete, love the pattern.
I have been thinking about doing something similar in my backyard for the past year or so. I currently have flagstones as stepping stones from the deck around to the concrete. Although I loved them when I first put them in 8 years ago, I am growing less fond of them and think I would like to do some concrete steps and let the grass come up between them.
I have been thinking about doing something similar in my backyard for the past year or so. I currently have flagstones as stepping stones from the deck around to the concrete. Although I loved them when I first put them in 8 years ago, I am growing less fond of them and think I would like to do some concrete steps and let the grass come up between them.
Mike, we talked about flagstone and other more natural looking options in the design phase. If budget was no consideration, we'd have gone with very large scale pavers. Going concrete saved quite a bit of cash and allowed easy design to fit the space. I really hung my hat on the low maintenance hook though - mostly a blower, and the occasional rinse with a hose, should be all that's needed.
___________________
Pulling the limestone away and leveling things a bit with the crushed granite serves two key purposes: 1) crushed granite is ½ the price of the Trap Rock so I use it underneath as a filler, 2) it drains extremely well.
Once the granite is spread to about 1.5” from the top of the edge or trough, I lay in geotex. It allows water to pass but not weeds. It also serves as a separator if I should need to pull the stone out, I can keep them separated.
In the pic above you can see the trap rock as it comes, very dusty and more chalky in color. A few minutes with the garden hose washes most of the processing dust away. Once we have 3 of 4 good rains on it, the color will even out.
I am sore today. Best guess is more than 8 and less than 9 yards of stone moved by hand this weekend. Limestone out, granite in, trap rock in. While I’m no stranger to back pain – I have fusion and instrumentation at L4, L5, S1 – I may have overdone things a bit. I expected low back discomfort, I was not prepared for my Traps to feel so damn sore. Wheelbarrowing for hours will do that to you I suppose.
I took some more pics from the roof. Its funny how perspective works; in some pics the walkway looks very odd. The corner pad is 5'x5', the stepping pads are 3'x5'.
More clean up, some sod and a temporary walkway to connect the driveway to the new stuff are all on tap for this week and coming weekend. A step too, for the house. Did I mention I'm married to a designer? Yea, our opinions don't always align so the appearance of that step is currently being deliberated upon. Wish me luck...
Sláinte!
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That turned out awesome. Well done. 
GeddyT
ALLIANCE MEMBER
No pun intended, right?
Not to hijack you're thread, but this could be an entire thread unto it's self. I think this is true about many cars, particularly as they're aging, people are realizing we'll never see another affordable mid engine Japanese sports car (MR2) or another rotary powered sports car (RX7/8)... We know the end is nigh for ICE cars. Dodge was standing at the end of the line with a Demon doing a burnout, but even that is fading.@fouckhest sticky like gum on Georgia asphalt in July!
I was alway a car kid. Matchbox, Hot Wheels and countless models consumed my playtime. I loved them all. However, as a young teenager I became smitten with one brand more than the others. Then, in a mid 80's dorm room, I saw this poster:
I moved from smitten to something just short of obsessed with Porsche's iconic and venerable 911. The next 20 years were spent reading every magazine article and book I could get my hands on. Ownership was not in the financial cards, but I became a fan, as in the true meaning of 'fanatical,' and a student of the brand. I had subscriptions, I had begun assembling a library of Porsche books and literature.
Life happened, marriage, mortgage, kids, career. I never stopped reading and fantasizing about Porsches. While I loved them all, pre 1995 911 cars were my jam and the 964 generation, 1989-1994, became my personal holy grail of all 911s. Something about the original 'stovepipe' front fenders following the round headlights. 25 years later I was in a position to buy one. Went shopping, spent cash on PPIs for 3 different cars, found a great deal and had Mrs. Trapps approval. I sat down with my finances and plans laid out in front of me: mortgage, home improvements, kids college, etc. I couldn't justify it in my head and walked out on the dream, favoring the safety of a rational decision that I would come to regret many times over. Still, I remained a fan and followed every new model and all things Porsche through magazines and the internet. I told myself one day...
Something began to shift in the 911 world in the early teens. Some would argue the air cooled (pre 1999) cars were the best Porsches ever made. Certainly a ton of arguments could be made in support of that claim. Relatively simple, very durable and that 'form follows function' design ethos all played into the story. The modern cars are fantastic and the performance, by comparison on paper and in the driver's seat, is mind boggling. But for me, and many others, those earlier cars hit squarely on the nostalgia button with force. I suspect people coming of age and means suddenly had the desire to own their childhood dreams and demand for air cooled cars began to rise. Slowly at first; in 2010 you could find a 964 in good condition for well under $20k and fixer uppers could be had for closer to $10k. Ohhh the regret...
Enter Singer, perhaps the most widely recognized company transforming Porsches into something 'more.' While Ruf, Gembella and others had been tuning Porsches for years, the restorative and restomod craze had arrived in force. The internet and its reach put these amazing creations in front of millions of people, not just die hard enthusiasts. Apparently, people with deep pockets. They began to buy the cars. By 2017, the average price climbed to over $50k for that same 964 in good condition. Speculators, flippers and restorers/restomoders discovered the demand, and began to hit the supply hard. Some are **** companies looking to make a buck. Others, like our own Tim @olsenmotorsports, produce immaculately detailed, beautiful and capable machines worthy of a museum perch, but meant to be enjoyed in motion. Monthly and quarterly sales reports showed a very strong upward trend. Then Covid happened. Prices went stratospheric. Much has been written by those smarter and more informed than I am, but the consensus is that there will be no correction resulting in a price drop. Any price softening is really just a slower appreciation curve. Today, a good condition 964 will fetch six figures, plus or minus. These are averages; body type, drivetrain, transmission and condition all have a significant impact. A '94 Turbo S is a $900k discussion. A '91 cabriolet with a Tiptronic (automatic) trans recently sold for $50k.
Can you still find a 'deal?' Sure. And, with the resources available much can be done in your own garage to keep them running. Porsche content is vast, broad, deep and widely available. The earlier cars really are simple. Parts cost is a different story. So is labor for true pros with experience. The good news is many of the original (OEM) parts are just a click and a couple of days away.
gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
+1
I've been working on a reply for, ah, about 7 months now. I had wanted to have an update that was meaningful and had as much 'garage' content as it did non-garage content. This isn't that post.
Life's been hectic but not all bad. Work has been a rollercoaster but I'm in a slight lull now. My daughter got married last fall. Twice. A local 'Q-Tip' wedding and another on a tiny little island.
What's a 'Q-Tip' wedding? Think mostly white haired relatives. We did a local gig for the 70 year old+ plus crowd who would not be attending the island affair. 18 people total and the legal wedding.
My reaction upon seeing her ready for the aisle:
She did ask if I'd drive her in the Cherry:
Awaiting our que to start the walk:
That tiny, little island? Jost Van **** in the British Virgin Islands. It was a challenge to say the least. There are no large resorts, commercial chains or even grocery stores on the island. Everything has to be provisioned, by boat from Tortola or St. Thomas. We had 84 guests for the wedding. Planes, taxis and boats are required to get to Yost; there is no airport on the island. It was a fantastic event lasting a few days for some, and a week for many.
Note the guy on the stern of the yacht. There were other yachts moored nearby and they were all watching, cheering and clapping.
Did I mention it is a small island. When the bride wants 84 matching chairs and that doesn't exist, you find a way. Turns out theres a place in Tortola that will rent them to you. Some other guys will happily deliver them to a barge. The barge captain will then will bring them over to Yost. Where, you guessed it, some other guys will unload them and bring them in pickup trucks and deliver them from the docks to the wedding venue. All for a price.
I had written down my FOB speech on a pirate scroll and I had some fun with it. I started the speech with the scroll tucked in my pocket while waxing poetic about the virtues of a 'short speech.' Then I explained I had written it down but it was rather lengthy at 45 minutes, so I sat down and edited it. At this point I pulled it out but did not open it. I went on to explain that after editing, we were now left with the short version, and I dropped one end of the scroll, about 5 feet long. Laughter ensued and I finished reading the speech, then wound it up and handed to the bride and groom:
It was heavy on humor and took just under 6 minutes.
Fueled by 11 magnums of Champagne, countless Painkillers (made famous just down the beach at the Soggy Dollar), gallons of beer, and steel pan music, a majority of the wedding party, myself included, ended up in the ocean later on:
My wife and I stayed for 10 days - a week plus a few days afterwards with just the two of us to decompress after all the excitement.
Some drone footage of Yost and White Bay:
Yes, I am still very new to drones, but it's a hobby I'm stoked to learn more about. I have a long way to go to learn smooth compound movements, composition and altitude/angles.
Nothing new to report in the shop. The Cherry has had one recent upgrade - new turn signal lenses, LED lighting and the requisite relay to make it work properly in the old system. Turns, brakes and parking. I'm not committed to a headlight plan yet.
Before:
The stock amber looks good on almost every color except Red, IMNSHO. The originals were cracked in some places, taped and in less than stellar condition. one of the fog lights was also burnt out. Other regions (outside of the US) have clears and these are available on-line from a few sources. I combined them with colored LEDs from a guy in Norway who produces several electronic componenets for older Porsches. The effect is good, you don't see amber unless the lights are on. Older versions had amber bulbs that are visible through the clear lenses.
After:
MUCH brighter.
One shot I always find interesting is the empty parking garage:
Sláinte
Mark
Life's been hectic but not all bad. Work has been a rollercoaster but I'm in a slight lull now. My daughter got married last fall. Twice. A local 'Q-Tip' wedding and another on a tiny little island.
What's a 'Q-Tip' wedding? Think mostly white haired relatives. We did a local gig for the 70 year old+ plus crowd who would not be attending the island affair. 18 people total and the legal wedding.
My reaction upon seeing her ready for the aisle:
She did ask if I'd drive her in the Cherry:
Awaiting our que to start the walk:
That tiny, little island? Jost Van **** in the British Virgin Islands. It was a challenge to say the least. There are no large resorts, commercial chains or even grocery stores on the island. Everything has to be provisioned, by boat from Tortola or St. Thomas. We had 84 guests for the wedding. Planes, taxis and boats are required to get to Yost; there is no airport on the island. It was a fantastic event lasting a few days for some, and a week for many.
Note the guy on the stern of the yacht. There were other yachts moored nearby and they were all watching, cheering and clapping.
Did I mention it is a small island. When the bride wants 84 matching chairs and that doesn't exist, you find a way. Turns out theres a place in Tortola that will rent them to you. Some other guys will happily deliver them to a barge. The barge captain will then will bring them over to Yost. Where, you guessed it, some other guys will unload them and bring them in pickup trucks and deliver them from the docks to the wedding venue. All for a price.
I had written down my FOB speech on a pirate scroll and I had some fun with it. I started the speech with the scroll tucked in my pocket while waxing poetic about the virtues of a 'short speech.' Then I explained I had written it down but it was rather lengthy at 45 minutes, so I sat down and edited it. At this point I pulled it out but did not open it. I went on to explain that after editing, we were now left with the short version, and I dropped one end of the scroll, about 5 feet long. Laughter ensued and I finished reading the speech, then wound it up and handed to the bride and groom:
It was heavy on humor and took just under 6 minutes.
Fueled by 11 magnums of Champagne, countless Painkillers (made famous just down the beach at the Soggy Dollar), gallons of beer, and steel pan music, a majority of the wedding party, myself included, ended up in the ocean later on:
My wife and I stayed for 10 days - a week plus a few days afterwards with just the two of us to decompress after all the excitement.
Some drone footage of Yost and White Bay:
Yes, I am still very new to drones, but it's a hobby I'm stoked to learn more about. I have a long way to go to learn smooth compound movements, composition and altitude/angles.
Nothing new to report in the shop. The Cherry has had one recent upgrade - new turn signal lenses, LED lighting and the requisite relay to make it work properly in the old system. Turns, brakes and parking. I'm not committed to a headlight plan yet.
Before:
The stock amber looks good on almost every color except Red, IMNSHO. The originals were cracked in some places, taped and in less than stellar condition. one of the fog lights was also burnt out. Other regions (outside of the US) have clears and these are available on-line from a few sources. I combined them with colored LEDs from a guy in Norway who produces several electronic componenets for older Porsches. The effect is good, you don't see amber unless the lights are on. Older versions had amber bulbs that are visible through the clear lenses.
After:
MUCH brighter.
One shot I always find interesting is the empty parking garage:
Sláinte
Mark
Last edited:
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Congrats Mark! My eldest daughter will be wed (hopefully, haha) in October.
Car is looking great!
Car is looking great!
nicholam77
Well-known member
Great to see you post, Mark! Looks like an amazing wedding and what a cool location. Great photos and the drone footage is neat. The pirate scroll is hilarious!
The 911 looks great!
The 911 looks great!
jon72vega
Well-known member
Great update!
It's a fun process; more emotional than I was expecting. I got lucky and Bridezilla did not make any appearances. Eldest? More than one daughter's wedding in the future?
Thanks, Nick! I've been here trying to keep up, but a whole lot less than I used to be. Work and other life events really were maximum volume for a while.
Thanks, Jon! I need to get back to regular posting.
fourmotioneer
Well-known member
Congrats! Guy on the yacht with the perfect pose.
It was terrific from day one to the return home. It was recuperative to have a fews days without being 'on' or entertaining. I say recuperative both literally and figuratively; there was no shortage of adult libations. The light technology is so much better than 30 years ago. I got both aesthetic and performance improvements by switching to LED units. More Nova pics in your thread please!
Thanks! Coming up on 6 months and all is great!
He did, that was a fantastic picture to capture. There were several other yachts moored close by, many were watching, cheering and clapping. It was a really cool happy accident.
______________________________________________________
In the new tools department I've expanded my detailing capability with a Makita polisher:
I ran some PVC recently and added this to the arsenal:
Mrs. Trapps had zero issues using it. Very clean cut, very light and very easy to use. A++
We needed it to complete the plumbing for an automated irrigation we'll be installing raised some garden beds. At the old house we had a decent home garden. Nothing crazy, mostly herbs, tomatoes, peppers, zucchini and lettuce. Mrs. Trapps has a green thumb:
Where we left off last August:
3/4" Schedule 40, buried in the crushed granite:
The grey conduit is our cable entrance. I went 1¼" so there's room to pull a replacement or fiber (currently not an option here) if needed in the future.
Then a layer of very heavy geotex:
And the planter beds:
Then more Ontario Trap Rock, all moved by hand:
Assembly was annoying. Having 2 people helps. Setting, leveling and squaring them was a total PITA as they're quite flimsy until set and filled. They are not perfect yet but I am not done striving for alignment I can live with. What I will say is the company is US based, manufactured in New York and has excellent customer service. I think with more substrate/weight in them it might be slightly easier. That's next, there is 5 yards of premium top soil in the driveway...
Walkways are 2' wide and easy to navigate. I had originally spec'd both front and rear rows of beds at 3' wide, but that left walkways just too narrow so we cut the back row to 2'. The back row beds are 2' x 8' and 2' x 4'. The front row is 3' x 4' and 3' x 8'. The short bed is 18" and the tall beds are 34"
Sláinte!
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gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
FLW would have embellished the raised bed containers...what's wrong with you?...... 
No, actually it looks great!
No, actually it looks great!
Thanks Gents!FLW would have embellished the raised bed containers...what's wrong with you?......
No, actually it looks great!
Embellishments pending, Mark!
What's wrong with me? The list is long, disturbing and most likely prohibited from disclosure or discussion here on GJ.
Mark
Last fall my hunting boots, 10+ year old Danner Frontier Extreme 10" 600 Gram GTX, had a wardrobe malfunction:
These boots are used exclusively for hunting, 95% of which happens in northern Michigan's pine forests, marshes and ponds. Soft often damp or wet ground, mostly smooth rocks, tree stumps and sand. Danner has a recrafting service and because the uppers are still in excellent condition, I opted for this instead of new boots. $140 vs the new Trophy at $480. I hope to get to the end of my hunting days in them.
You have a choice of soles:
I chose the Danner Bob and after about 2 months they were delivered:
For years I was a Nikwax guy. Then about ten years ago I got turned onto Bear Grease. This stuff has performed very well. I believe it absorbs better into the leather. My process would normally be to break down and clean the leather with shaving cream and scrub brush, thoroughly dry and the treat buy 'massaging' every part of the leather and forcing it into the seams and threads then leaving it a bit thick to absorb and dry. I skipped the breakdown scrub as the recrafting process did a nice job of cleaning everything up:
This is left to sit for a couple of days - the leather absorbs it and some dries up:
The excess is then wiped off with a clean rag and the boots are ready for service again:
_____________________________________
Many advocate filling raised garden beds with compostable materials as a substrate under the soil rather than just filling the whole bed with dirt. We've no shortage of that material here, from twigs to trunks. Spring clean-up this year produced the usual stock pile of twigs and branches. Typically, we either burn or drag to the curb. For the stuff dragged to the curb, our village collects it and participates in some sort of composting collective. Every spring they bring large piles of beautiful composted soil to the village offices, free to residents with a shovel and a bucket. My bucket is a pick up truck bed.
We combined spring cleanup with some old large rounds and splits from the trees we lost a few years back:
There may be a few 2x offcuts in there too, but only untreated stuff.
Next I'll drop in the top soil, leaving about 12" free. That will then get compost about 10" deep finally covered by a 2" layer of Miracle Grow.
Where we're headed:
I'm still working on the drip irrigation plans, but stoked to have the watering completely automated.
Sláinte!
These boots are used exclusively for hunting, 95% of which happens in northern Michigan's pine forests, marshes and ponds. Soft often damp or wet ground, mostly smooth rocks, tree stumps and sand. Danner has a recrafting service and because the uppers are still in excellent condition, I opted for this instead of new boots. $140 vs the new Trophy at $480. I hope to get to the end of my hunting days in them.
You have a choice of soles:
- The Danner Bob sole is the original sole that came on these boots. It is ideal for cold climates and soft terrain like snow and marsh (Like late November in Michigan). It's a bit softer, but since these boots rarely see concrete in the occasional gas station or restaurant parking lot, they last well.
- The Sierra sole is meant for hiking and rocky terrain, it is slightly heavier and more durable. With that, being a stiffer rubber, it does not have as much grip on snow and ice. Late fall hunting in Northern Michigan brings its fair share of early season snow. Many late season trips have me breaking ice to skirt a marsh or retrieve decoys.
- The Kletterlift is specifically designed for comfort and durability, the heel provides superb shock absorption and the rubber compound guarantees great traction and stability on both wet and dry surfaces.
I chose the Danner Bob and after about 2 months they were delivered:
For years I was a Nikwax guy. Then about ten years ago I got turned onto Bear Grease. This stuff has performed very well. I believe it absorbs better into the leather. My process would normally be to break down and clean the leather with shaving cream and scrub brush, thoroughly dry and the treat buy 'massaging' every part of the leather and forcing it into the seams and threads then leaving it a bit thick to absorb and dry. I skipped the breakdown scrub as the recrafting process did a nice job of cleaning everything up:
This is left to sit for a couple of days - the leather absorbs it and some dries up:
The excess is then wiped off with a clean rag and the boots are ready for service again:
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Many advocate filling raised garden beds with compostable materials as a substrate under the soil rather than just filling the whole bed with dirt. We've no shortage of that material here, from twigs to trunks. Spring clean-up this year produced the usual stock pile of twigs and branches. Typically, we either burn or drag to the curb. For the stuff dragged to the curb, our village collects it and participates in some sort of composting collective. Every spring they bring large piles of beautiful composted soil to the village offices, free to residents with a shovel and a bucket. My bucket is a pick up truck bed.
We combined spring cleanup with some old large rounds and splits from the trees we lost a few years back:
There may be a few 2x offcuts in there too, but only untreated stuff.
Next I'll drop in the top soil, leaving about 12" free. That will then get compost about 10" deep finally covered by a 2" layer of Miracle Grow.
Where we're headed:
I'm still working on the drip irrigation plans, but stoked to have the watering completely automated.
Sláinte!
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gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice boots! Recrafting is not unusual for the better manufacturers. I used to send in my Allen Edmunds dress shoes for the exactly the same process. 1/3 the cost of a new pair. I have a pair that I've sent in a couple of times that were my Dad's. I still wear them for dress up occasions only, but are at least 50 years old. What's really cool about them is they have a timeless design (split toe) to them that still looks current.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Boots can make or break the activity...fine job with those!
I use a lot of saddle soap on my shoes/boots around here. Depends on end use/type as to the coating if any afterwards.
I use a lot of saddle soap on my shoes/boots around here. Depends on end use/type as to the coating if any afterwards.
I was a Johnston & Murphy Melton guy for 20+ years. Could usually get them resoled once before the uppers started to crack too much.
Agree 100%; quality footwear is key. I use saddle soap on baseball mitts; good stuff!
______________________
Progress:
I am still sorting out irrigation options and critter control.
I've been working on a berm in the back north west corner of the property to both clean up thistle, buckthorn and other **** as well as provide a bit of a privacy screen. It's about 4' tall and 40' long, curved and sloping off to each side. Our plan is to cover it with low maintenance flora. Most of the dirt came from the excavation on the patio - thick nasty clay. It settled over the winter and we've now covered it with geotex and fresh new top soil on top of that.
The north side of my house has a ton of pachysandra which is hearty and thriving here:
My friend, the Ditch Witch Machine, makes transplanting it in big chunks easy; roughly 3' x 4' sections with 6+" of soil going with it:
The front area will be seeded as we did in the south west corner a couple of years ago.
After a machine grade, I hit it by hand with a big grading rake, spread a layer of grass seed, then raked it again lightly, added some more seed, then dropped a blanket of straw:
We're watering it twice daily.
I'm also trying hard to get the garden done. Trying and failing; but not without some progress:
I have more to plant and should wrap that and the irrigation up this next weekend. Then it is back to trenches, drains and pipe on the north side of the house to complete the entire drainage system.
Garage stuff?
Time for an oil change.
When Porsche's 964s left the factory, they were filled with either Shell TMO or Mobil 1. The 964 came to me with a fresh oil change and Mobil 1 15w50. While a solid, respectable choice, I wanted something a bit more specific for an aging air-cooled engine. The oil world, in seemingly every situation, calls for debate and argumentation perhaps exceeding the Ford/Chevy silliness. Debates over oil, brand and weight, in air-cooled Porsches are no different. Over time, data and new products change conventional thinking. Even Porsche has evolved their approach and now recommends and sells a Porsche branded 10w60 for classic air-cooled motors over 3.0 liters.
My approach has been do my research, find what fits given the data and use case at that time, and press play. On the first oil change I moved from Mobil 1 to PennGrade 1 20w50. A proverbial sh!t ton of internet research leading me to believe the slightly higher ZDDP package in the PennGrade was better suited to the car - better anti-wear chemistry. I was probably also swayed by some personalities whom I know have way more experience, ergo wisdom, with Porsches than I do. The increased Zinc content specifically helps with things like flat tappets.
This spring, I decided upon another change, from the PennGrade to Driven DT50 in a 10w50 weight. My climate and use, together with strong on-line reviews, lead me to this. Typically, I am a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kind of guy. The PennGrade did nothing wrong, I have zero issues with it. However, there might now be something better that seems to be standing the test of time and internet scrutiny and scorn.
I also replaced the magnetic drain plugs - plural, yes there are two, one on the engine case and one between the oil tank (near the engine) and the oil cooler (front mounted), with 'farkle-ish' Rennline magnetic plugs. I've stuck with the OE Mahle filter.
The car had leaked small amounts (a few drops a week) since day 1 of my tenure; some were known and some were discovered during the PPI. Typical stuff, drops, not tablespoons or cups, normal and almost reassuring. Almost. I'm 85 miles and 5 days post change and not a drop; we'll see what things look like this weekend. Still, a full rebuild is somewhere down the line...man that is a deep and wide rabbit hole.
She also burns some oil - in fact, Porsche’s factory specification for the M64/01 engine allows for oil consumption of up to 1.5 liters per 1,000 kilometers (roughly 1 quart per 622 miles). After 6,067 miles, I'm averaging 679 miles per quart. Not unexpected or out of spec for a 112,*** mile motor.
I'm still happy with the jack stands and jack I bought a few years back:
She's also thirsty. With the car hot, up level on Jack stands, and left to drain for a half an hour, she drained well. I was able to return 10.75 quarts to the 12.1 quart system, although I may have been 1/2 a quart low at the start.
Sláinte!
The north side of my house has a ton of pachysandra which is hearty and thriving here:
My friend, the Ditch Witch Machine, makes transplanting it in big chunks easy; roughly 3' x 4' sections with 6+" of soil going with it:
The front area will be seeded as we did in the south west corner a couple of years ago.
After a machine grade, I hit it by hand with a big grading rake, spread a layer of grass seed, then raked it again lightly, added some more seed, then dropped a blanket of straw:
We're watering it twice daily.
I'm also trying hard to get the garden done. Trying and failing; but not without some progress:
I have more to plant and should wrap that and the irrigation up this next weekend. Then it is back to trenches, drains and pipe on the north side of the house to complete the entire drainage system.
Garage stuff?
Time for an oil change.
When Porsche's 964s left the factory, they were filled with either Shell TMO or Mobil 1. The 964 came to me with a fresh oil change and Mobil 1 15w50. While a solid, respectable choice, I wanted something a bit more specific for an aging air-cooled engine. The oil world, in seemingly every situation, calls for debate and argumentation perhaps exceeding the Ford/Chevy silliness. Debates over oil, brand and weight, in air-cooled Porsches are no different. Over time, data and new products change conventional thinking. Even Porsche has evolved their approach and now recommends and sells a Porsche branded 10w60 for classic air-cooled motors over 3.0 liters.
My approach has been do my research, find what fits given the data and use case at that time, and press play. On the first oil change I moved from Mobil 1 to PennGrade 1 20w50. A proverbial sh!t ton of internet research leading me to believe the slightly higher ZDDP package in the PennGrade was better suited to the car - better anti-wear chemistry. I was probably also swayed by some personalities whom I know have way more experience, ergo wisdom, with Porsches than I do. The increased Zinc content specifically helps with things like flat tappets.
This spring, I decided upon another change, from the PennGrade to Driven DT50 in a 10w50 weight. My climate and use, together with strong on-line reviews, lead me to this. Typically, I am a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kind of guy. The PennGrade did nothing wrong, I have zero issues with it. However, there might now be something better that seems to be standing the test of time and internet scrutiny and scorn.
I also replaced the magnetic drain plugs - plural, yes there are two, one on the engine case and one between the oil tank (near the engine) and the oil cooler (front mounted), with 'farkle-ish' Rennline magnetic plugs. I've stuck with the OE Mahle filter.
The car had leaked small amounts (a few drops a week) since day 1 of my tenure; some were known and some were discovered during the PPI. Typical stuff, drops, not tablespoons or cups, normal and almost reassuring. Almost. I'm 85 miles and 5 days post change and not a drop; we'll see what things look like this weekend. Still, a full rebuild is somewhere down the line...man that is a deep and wide rabbit hole.
She also burns some oil - in fact, Porsche’s factory specification for the M64/01 engine allows for oil consumption of up to 1.5 liters per 1,000 kilometers (roughly 1 quart per 622 miles). After 6,067 miles, I'm averaging 679 miles per quart. Not unexpected or out of spec for a 112,*** mile motor.
I'm still happy with the jack stands and jack I bought a few years back:
She's also thirsty. With the car hot, up level on Jack stands, and left to drain for a half an hour, she drained well. I was able to return 10.75 quarts to the 12.1 quart system, although I may have been 1/2 a quart low at the start.
Sláinte!
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OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
The PennGrade or Driven I'm sure will both keep your car well lubricated! Both highly regarded brands with a ton of R&D behind them.
I go down the oil rabbit hole at least every 6mo. I've been a Castrol man for a lot of years, Quaker State before that. I switched to Castrol when I started running the "German" Castrol (synthetic, oil was green in color) in my Z28. It was claimed the 30w profile was closer to a 40w profile, which fit my needs. You can no longer get this, but I still carry Castrol on my shelf in various weights.
Going to try some Valvoline in our DD's as it was on sale, switching from Shell Rotella in the Suburban to Mobil 1, also on sale.
In all reality, I think with today's "synthetic" oils (I won't open up that argument here about what is truly synthetic) a good filter and a 5k mile OCI (or once a year if you don't reach the 5k) is plenty sufficient to keep your engine lubricated and clean.
I go down the oil rabbit hole at least every 6mo. I've been a Castrol man for a lot of years, Quaker State before that. I switched to Castrol when I started running the "German" Castrol (synthetic, oil was green in color) in my Z28. It was claimed the 30w profile was closer to a 40w profile, which fit my needs. You can no longer get this, but I still carry Castrol on my shelf in various weights.
Going to try some Valvoline in our DD's as it was on sale, switching from Shell Rotella in the Suburban to Mobil 1, also on sale.
In all reality, I think with today's "synthetic" oils (I won't open up that argument here about what is truly synthetic) a good filter and a 5k mile OCI (or once a year if you don't reach the 5k) is plenty sufficient to keep your engine lubricated and clean.
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The P-car (insert funny term)'s, tend to LOVE the Driven oil, especially on the newer cars. Certainly went down that same rabbit hole when I got my Cayman, but at the end of the day, of the 3-4 oil changes I've done on my car, I've always just defaulted to the OEM Mobil 1.
That being said, when I built the diesel engine for my compound turbo VW, the guy that did the bottom end built circle track engines, he raved about and recommended Klotz, so I ran what he told me and never had issue. I followed suite when I built the turbo R32, and I beat the living daylights out of that car, too many times up in the mountains on a full arm over arm, switch back turn, I'd get an oil pressure light for a second and that oil always kept that engine in great working order.
They high zinc and phosphorous oils really are nice, but they make those high volume oil changes sting the wallet for sure
That being said, when I built the diesel engine for my compound turbo VW, the guy that did the bottom end built circle track engines, he raved about and recommended Klotz, so I ran what he told me and never had issue. I followed suite when I built the turbo R32, and I beat the living daylights out of that car, too many times up in the mountains on a full arm over arm, switch back turn, I'd get an oil pressure light for a second and that oil always kept that engine in great working order.
They high zinc and phosphorous oils really are nice, but they make those high volume oil changes sting the wallet for sure
'Synthetic' is as diverse as 'recycled' when it comes to definitions. Ask ten people to define it and you'll likely get ten different answers. Even more-so when the marketing knuckleheads get involved. I just don't hit the annual miles, so I'm on a once per year change.
I don't, ok I do, know why every time I hear or read Castrol, my brain smells hot burnt castor...it's a beautiful thing.
ZDDP is an expensive additive; at 10+ qts. per, I'm glad it is only once per year for me. I'll still end up with a case plus 3 or so quarts to get through top ups over the driving season - the car hibernates over the salt soaked, pothole prolific wild winters here in Michigan.
I've been accumulating parts for a few modifications:
Hopefully the weather holds and I can shoot some before video this weekend.
I also scored a pair of NIB 8" subs, one of which is destined for the Cherry:
I now have the complete speaker package on hand; 2-way components for the front doors, 2-way plates in the rear deck and a single 8" sub in the rear passenger seat area. I have an a/d/s PowerPlate 6.25 amp which I can run one 25W channel to each corner and bridge the remaining two channels for 90-100W (into 4 Ohm) to the sub. Not a ton of power, but well matched to the speakers with clean and solid SQ.
My dilemma is swapping out the a/d/s/ amp for a modern DSP amp (Audison, Helix or Mosconi) that is lighter, smaller, more powerful and far more 'tunable.' I can scratch weight from the concern list; its not a track car and I am not chasing seconds anywhere. Originality and 'period correctness' count extra. SPL is not a primary goal, just need it loud enough to overcome the beautiful noises emanating from the lump out back on longer highway jaunts. I am leaning towards running the a/d/s amp to start and if I get the sound I'm hoping for, to be done. If not I'll, swap out the amp.
Sláinte!
Not complete yet, but still showing some progress:
I've also spent a fair bit of time and energy topping up and regrading the trap rock. Most of it settled over the last 2 winters; 3/4" to 1" in most places:
Of course the new stuff is still dusty and needs several good rains to even it all out. I do hit it with the hose just rinse off the bulk of processing dust.
Still, we're very happy with the appearance, its easy to walk on and we love the low maintenance aspect.
About the box from Soul...
Options for 911 exhausts cover a broad range from subtle to silly. Very few add real performance gains by themselves. I am gearhead and I like noisy engines, at least those that sound good. Obviously subjective here...
[rant]
I live about 4 miles from Woodward Ave. The broccoli headed gweebnuggets in daddies BMW or a Charger with a Folgers fart can have all seemingly discovered the 'snap, crackle, pop' tune. They drive like the gas pedal is a damn yoyo, on off, on off, on off. While I can appreciate the occasional overrev from a GT3, R10, Aventador, or even the very well built WRX or Supra, hearing them incessantly from 530s, Camrys and Challengers is just sad. And really annoying.
[/rant]
I've watched 100 videos of air cooled Porsches and struggled to align with any one setup that I might change too. Avoiding rasp, drone or stupidly loud still leaves some good choices. Cheap to OMG expensive. I want the sound 'uncorked' just a bit. I'm not looking for deeper, more mechanical, sharper or any other adjective others have employed to define and or change the sound. Just a bit more of what already is. I landed on the cat as the answer. Options are stock, cat bypass pipe and High Flow cat. The one currently on the car looks stock and might be original. I opted for the high flow cat as it's said to help with smell just a bit and isn't likely to drone or rasp. Soul Performance has just such a part, for a 33 year old car:
The apparent quality is next level. I need to get out for a couple of videos so I can show a proper before and after comparison. Here is the cold start before Soul:
Sláinte!
I've also spent a fair bit of time and energy topping up and regrading the trap rock. Most of it settled over the last 2 winters; 3/4" to 1" in most places:
Of course the new stuff is still dusty and needs several good rains to even it all out. I do hit it with the hose just rinse off the bulk of processing dust.
Still, we're very happy with the appearance, its easy to walk on and we love the low maintenance aspect.
About the box from Soul...
Options for 911 exhausts cover a broad range from subtle to silly. Very few add real performance gains by themselves. I am gearhead and I like noisy engines, at least those that sound good. Obviously subjective here...
[rant]
I live about 4 miles from Woodward Ave. The broccoli headed gweebnuggets in daddies BMW or a Charger with a Folgers fart can have all seemingly discovered the 'snap, crackle, pop' tune. They drive like the gas pedal is a damn yoyo, on off, on off, on off. While I can appreciate the occasional overrev from a GT3, R10, Aventador, or even the very well built WRX or Supra, hearing them incessantly from 530s, Camrys and Challengers is just sad. And really annoying.
[/rant]
I've watched 100 videos of air cooled Porsches and struggled to align with any one setup that I might change too. Avoiding rasp, drone or stupidly loud still leaves some good choices. Cheap to OMG expensive. I want the sound 'uncorked' just a bit. I'm not looking for deeper, more mechanical, sharper or any other adjective others have employed to define and or change the sound. Just a bit more of what already is. I landed on the cat as the answer. Options are stock, cat bypass pipe and High Flow cat. The one currently on the car looks stock and might be original. I opted for the high flow cat as it's said to help with smell just a bit and isn't likely to drone or rasp. Soul Performance has just such a part, for a 33 year old car:
The apparent quality is next level. I need to get out for a couple of videos so I can show a proper before and after comparison. Here is the cold start before Soul:
Sláinte!
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Exhaust is definitely tough. I chase the mythical "perfect" sound on every one of my vehicles.