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Above 1200 Sq/FT Freshy Fresh - Mountain High Workshop and Storage: 48x30

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

Nolift911

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Yeah I haven't found anyone that has actually ordered the 4dock stuff and reported back on it. A few things I like about it...
1) it comes in lots of sizes and options so it will fit my different spaces/needs
2) steel frames are the bones of it - I can always change out the table tops later if they don't work out
3) pretty affordable
4) my guess is this would all ship together - including pallet racks
5) they also have some cheap metal storage cabinets - could get these instead of Seville stuff - not as deep though

I still haven't ordered anything. More hemming and hawing, second guessing, etc.
My 02. That stuff looks pretty flimsy. That free standing bench is basically a packing table - I think a HD vice and some heavy wrenching would have that thing flying around unless you rig it to the wall or bolt it down...was looking for weights on these but did not see. That will determine if suitable - sure it can hold 3000 lbs. but in terms of movement when jerking it around by a vise?



3/8 plate can get your vice holes drilled or hitch mount.

Buy once cry once. (but you know me - if its worth doing, its worth overdoing)
 
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badonk

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My 02. That stuff looks pretty flimsy. That free standing bench is basically a packing table - I think a HD vice and some heavy wrenching would have that thing flying around unless you rig it to the wall or bolt it down...was looking for weights on these but did not see. That will determine if suitable - sure it can hold 3000 lbs. but in terms of movement when jerking it around by a vise?



3/8 plate can get your vice holes drilled or hitch mount.

Buy once cry once.
Damn nice and a lot of crying, even if only once. I love the hitch mounts - modular to move tools/vice around as needed. Would love one of their 3 bay sd doube wide benches as my 4'x8' island bench with a 1/2 inch top but at over 10K built that's a tough pill to swallow. Shipping will need a forklift to unload and get it placed in the shop. And you are right that the weight of this - it won't move without heavy equipment. So no amount of wrenching or banging I do will move one of these tables. Dream table for sure...question is can I afford the dream?
 

Nolift911

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Damn nice and a lot of crying, even if only once. I love the hitch mounts - modular to move tools/vice around as needed. Would love one of their 3 bay sd doube wide benches as my 4'x8' island bench with a 1/2 inch top but at over 10K built that's a tough pill to swallow. Shipping will need a forklift to unload and get it placed in the shop. And you are right that the weight of this - it won't move without heavy equipment. So no amount of wrenching or banging I do will move one of these tables. Dream table for sure...question is can I afford the dream?

Well the answer is somewhere in the middle. Their cabinets...you could mount a vice to - don't need that. Cabinets just hold stuff - most cabinets will hold heavy stuff. The table yes - with receiver mounts, even at 1/4 plate. Plus they have heavy duty storage underneath.

Spend on one table to do it all - until the apocalypse and when that happens you can hide underneath.
 
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badonk

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Well the answer is somewhere in the middle. Their cabinets...you could mount a vice to - don't need that. Cabinets just hold stuff - most cabinets will hold heavy stuff. The table yes - with receiver mounts, even at 1/4 plate. Plus they have heavy duty storage underneath.

Spend on one table to do it all - until the apocalypse and when that happens you can hide underneath.
Tru dat. Will have to sleep on this bench decision - and maybe sleep under the bench too. But this truly would do it all. The other cheapy stuff (cabinets and additional benches) would of course be nice to have for most of the light duty work I do. One thing the bench would also be good for - attaching a bench mount bike repair stand instead of using the flimsy tripods.
 

Nolift911

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Tru dat. Will have to sleep on this bench decision - and maybe sleep under the bench too. But this truly would do it all. The other cheapy stuff (cabinets and additional benches) would of course be nice to have for most of the light duty work I do. One thing the bench would also be good for - attaching a bench mount bike repair stand instead of using the flimsy tripods.

Atta boy! I have always been good at spending other peoples money. Seriously, I look at that table as the same as a lift - its a piece of equipment that could also hold a 911 motor and ****** on a drop. Throw a rubber mat on top for delicate stuff, mount the receivers for vices, anvils, drill presses etc. so its all modular. I am sure you could get your builder to unload for you. A couple coats a year of boiled linseed oil and Johnson's Paste floor wax - good to go forever.
 
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badonk

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Alright, deliberations are complete and orders are placed. The thing I was stuck on was the right side of the north wall with pallet racks, etc. I have 4 windows along that wall that start at about 6 ft. So I want to avoid blocking the natural light that I get with those. And I have cheapy home depot racks in my old shop and I've had one collapse when loading wheels on it. So I want something much stronger as well as 3 feet deep. Pallet racks seem to fit the bill. While the posts for the pallet racks are 8 ft tall, if I put them in the right spot they'll line up between windows. At some point if I need space, I can stack things higher but ideally I'll avoid that. Then I got some shorty Seville Cabinets that are 5.5 ft high over there and come in below the window height. Most reviews about the Seville cabinets are positive so they will do. I briefly entertained the idea of Levracks...but $$$.

We'll see how sturdy the 4dock packing benches are but I plan to use those for light duty stuff. More bench space is more better. And thanks to nolift, a 4x8 welding table from badass is on the way which will be the primary working bench. I added their welded hitch mounts so I can move tools into position when needed and tuck them away when not. I'm also having the 1/2" plate drilled to mount my vise. That thing weighs about 100 lbs and I don't think I'll want to put it on a hitch mount and move it around.

So now I wait for shipping logistics...

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jake28

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SF, CA
@badonk are you running Webers on your 911?
I just moved my 3.2-powered 75 911 from sea level to 6200 feet and it’s running, shall we say, a bit rich.

If you’ve delved into the jetting, I’m curious if I should be trying to size up the air corrector, or sizing down the main jet, or both.

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badonk

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@badonk are you running Webers on your 911?
I just moved my 3.2-powered 75 911 from sea level to 6200 feet and it’s running, shall we say, a bit rich.

If you’ve delved into the jetting, I’m curious if I should be trying to size up the air corrector, or sizing down the main jet, or both.

Very nice! I don't have a ton of experience with carbs and altitude - my '72 originally had MFI which automatically adjusts to altitude. And I swapped in a 3.6L running DME. The '81 that I'm working on getting running again (gummed up fuel) runs CIS. But yes generally you are on the right track. Also consider lowering the idle and/or resetting timing (1 degree advance per 1000 feet of elevation?). But you'll likely want to have a look at those once you get the basics set right with jets.

Asking AI, it came up with the following:

Permanent Jetting Changes
For optimal performance across the RPM range at 6,200 feet, you will likely need to change the internal jets. Experts generally recommend the following shifts from your sea level setup:
  • Main Jets: Decrease the main jet size by roughly 0.05mm for every 3,000 feet. For your 6,200-foot move, this typically means dropping two jet sizes (e.g., from a 150 to a 140).
  • Air Correction Jets: Increase the air correction jet size to introduce more air into the main circuit. A common recommendation is to increase by 2 sizes for every 1,000 feet above 3,000 feet.
  • Idle Jets: Drop one idle jet size (a step of 5, such as moving from a 60 to a 55) for every 2,000 feet above 3,000 feet to clean up the low-end transition.
  • Venturis: If the car still feels "boggy" or sluggish at wide-open throttle, you may need to step down your venturi size (e.g., from 36mm to 34mm or 32mm) to increase air velocity through the carburetor.

Reference High-Altitude Setup
A documented high-altitude setup for a similar engine at roughly 6,000–7,000 feet uses the following:
  • Mains: 140 or 145 (down from 160 at sea level).
  • Airs: 200 (up from 180).
  • Idles: 52 or 55 (down from 60).
  • Venturis: 32mm or 34mm (down from 36mm).
 

jake28

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Cheers @badonk I went to the school of ChatGPT Weber tuning and got similar results. I just added an AFR gauge and wide band sensor so I’ll have better baselines than sooty spark plugs.
 

Nolift911

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Alright, deliberations are complete and orders are placed. The thing I was stuck on was the right side of the north wall with pallet racks, etc. I have 4 windows along that wall that start at about 6 ft. So I want to avoid blocking the natural light that I get with those. And I have cheapy home depot racks in my old shop and I've had one collapse when loading wheels on it. So I want something much stronger as well as 3 feet deep. Pallet racks seem to fit the bill. While the posts for the pallet racks are 8 ft tall, if I put them in the right spot they'll line up between windows. At some point if I need space, I can stack things higher but ideally I'll avoid that. Then I got some shorty Seville Cabinets that are 5.5 ft high over there and come in below the window height. Most reviews about the Seville cabinets are positive so they will do. I briefly entertained the idea of Levracks...but $$$.

We'll see how sturdy the 4dock packing benches are but I plan to use those for light duty stuff. More bench space is more better. And thanks to nolift, a 4x8 welding table from badass is on the way which will be the primary working bench. I added their welded hitch mounts so I can move tools into position when needed and tuck them away when not. I'm also having the 1/2" plate drilled to mount my vise. That thing weighs about 100 lbs and I don't think I'll want to put it on a hitch mount and move it around.

So now I wait for shipping logistics...

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Layout looks good - are you doing extra power drops at the lifts in addition to the 240v? My hope was to have extra power at the lifts - at least 120v or have a 240v plug and have the lift not direct wire (not sure that is code). I think 240v is good for 75 feet before voltage drop. Point is with that welding table would be nice to move/have around lifts without running an extension. The only downside of a portable garage is power in the center.

I encouraged my contractor to do "sketchy contractor ****" for the above and run conduit so I could have power after inspections.
 
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badonk

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The 240v drops are hard wired for the lifts. I have two more 240v on the wall with outlets...with the expectation that I'm not running everything at the same time. I will likely be connecting my compressor to the one of the left. My welder is an old Millermatic 130 running on 110v. It works for most of my needs. If I need to take 240v via extension, I just reclaimed this temp line that was run from the meter to the house before the permanent run was buried. Three #6 awg and a #8 ground - should be good for 50 amps.

In other news have to pivot on pallet racks. 4dock isn't carrying them any more. The other place I looked wants $1300 shipping for $800 of racks. That doesn't sit right...it is just racks. I'm now contempating the costco gorilla rack route. They are only 2' deep which I've lived with in the past. So I may start with a set of those and see if that's enough. If I really want more than 2' depth, the wife's brilliant idea is to stack two back to back and get 4'. That eats into motorcycle storage etc but should be fine.

IMG_1005.jpg

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IMG_1007.jpg
 

Nolift911

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How did they attach that conduit to the 2 post - ? I have always wanted to drill the post to attach stuff but Bendpak says the world and all of humanity will end if you did...so never did.
 
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badonk

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How did they attach that conduit to the 2 post - ? I have always wanted to drill the post to attach stuff but Bendpak says the world and all of humanity will end if you did...so never did.
Looks like just a conduit clamp with a hole drilled and self tapping screw. Two on the 2 post lift, one on the 4 post. Maybe this is the cause of the current state of the world?
 

HogDude

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Dec 25, 2020
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Nebraska
The 240v drops are hard wired for the lifts. I have two more 240v on the wall with outlets...with the expectation that I'm not running everything at the same time. I will likely be connecting my compressor to the one of the left. My welder is an old Millermatic 130 running on 110v. It works for most of my needs. If I need to take 240v via extension, I just reclaimed this temp line that was run from the meter to the house before the permanent run was buried. Three #6 awg and a #8 ground - should be good for 50 amps.

In other news have to pivot on pallet racks. 4dock isn't carrying them any more. The other place I looked wants $1300 shipping for $800 of racks. That doesn't sit right...it is just racks. I'm now contempating the costco gorilla rack route. They are only 2' deep which I've lived with in the past. So I may start with a set of those and see if that's enough. If I really want more than 2' depth, the wife's brilliant idea is to stack two back to back and get 4'. That eats into motorcycle storage etc but should be fine.

IMG_1005.jpg

IMG_1006.jpg

IMG_1007.jpg
Offered in 36/42/48" depths. I did not follow all the way through the process to get shipping costs. I'm considering them as well. Just not close enough to needing them to order.
Regular Duty or Heavy Duty.
 
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badonk

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Offered in 36/42/48" depths. I did not follow all the way through the process to get shipping costs. I'm considering them as well. Just not close enough to needing them to order.
Regular Duty or Heavy Duty.
Thanks for the link...but going into more on shipping I run into the following problem. No bueno.

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badonk

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What did bad *** charge for that table to ship?
About $1K on a $4K table that probably weighs over 800 lbs and needs liftgate service for residential. The 4dock order with pallets was quoted at about $375 for the residential/liftgate although that number should come down a bit since it is just 3 lighter weight benches being delivered (with assembly required). Seville cabinets are coming in today via Fedex and shipping was included/free. Again assembly required.
 
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badonk

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On another note, I've mostly made the decision that I will move out of my old 16x45 shop and sell it. So many good reasons ($$$) to do this but another upcoming project is figuring out all the things that I move into the new shop and the rest will be sold. I'll sell the shop with the mezz, two lifts, crappy swiss trax floor and most of the storage racks. I've been stockpiling lots of car parts from past and for future projects - the question is will they be my future projects or someone elses. This also means I'll move the rest of my tools and there's no need to have duplicate sets - so I can stop buying tools. Cars move up first (not the white one which was never mine and is someone else's project for sure).

IMG_7388.jpg
 
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badonk

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Seville cabinets are in and done. I'm pretty happy with them. Newage stuff is a bit beefier and you don't have to assemble it. I got all 3 of these cabinets for ~$1000 delivered - assembly required - but meets my needs. The ones under the windows are only 66" high so they don't block the windows. And the 60" wide one fits the space nicely and leave room for the corner workbench. Lots of packing material to dispose of...

Costco gorilla pallet racks are on the way, scheduled to arrive next weekend. The 4dock benches should ship soon (less the pallet racks originally ordered). I'll make a call tomorrow to find out about timing of the welding table.

It is coming together!

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badonk

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More progress. I went ahead and ordered two of the Gorilla racks from Costco. They are only 2 ft deep but they'll have to do. Much less expensive than palette racks and not quite as sturdy - 2000 lbs per shelf. But I won't need any more than that. My config is mostly around racking wheel sets. I wasn't going to have a shelf down at the floor level so I can just roll heavier wheels into those spaces. And I was surprised by the assembly instructions suggesting if you buy two, you can link them together and go 3-wide, just with fewer levels. Fortunately that worked out for me so here it is. That taller ones will fit up to 34" wheels on the floor, which is the biggest I have for now. I used some extra cross bars to hold the wheels in, but that might only work for my m3 and some porsche wheels because they are smaller. I think that cross bar won't fit the larger wheels - so I'll likely use a 2x4 or 1x3 across the floor. Counting it up, I'll have 24 wheels to store - and that's after selling 3 sets. I also have a Porsche motor to move here and store on one of the lower levels. I might be running out of space already.

IMG_1047.jpg

I had two 24" wide seville cabinets on this wall before. Those have moved between garage doors. I think I said before that these aren't super heavy duty cabinets, which is nice for a number of reasons. I was able to tip each on its side and carry it under one arm across the garage to the new spot. No dragging across the floor and didn't need a second person.

The tables from 4dock arrived. One L-shaped table 6 ft in each direction. And two 6 ft tables that are 2 ft deep. The L table is pretty stout and solid - could jump up and down on it and it won't move. The other two tables are kinda shaky - due to the adjustable legs. I have an idea of ways to reinforce those but even if it stays shaky, they work fine for setting things down on it for disassembly, cleaning tasks, etc.

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The table that @Nolift911 suggested is still being built - expecting to ship in mid-June. It will likely weigh over 1K lbs and will be solid as hell. So that's the last major thing to get in place.

I brought another car up today, my '72 911. Such a great drive with beautiful weather and excellent roads. Next up is getting the fuel system on the '81 cleaned out and having the engine running again. Then a few things to make it more road worthy for the drive up - putting a muffler on it and taking off the race wheels/tires. That car will be a fun project that I'll likely give updates on here as I get to it. With a few cars out of the old shop it gives me space to organize the things that are moving, things that need to be sold, trashed, etc. I'll likely rent a truck in June to get all the 'moving' stuff up here - wheel sets, blast cabinet, compressor, drill press, bench grinder, 12 ton press, porsche engine, other car parts I want to keep, other tools...everything.

Workshop Interior - 5-14-2026, 5.09.56pm.jpg
 
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gearhead1960

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My Costco Gorilla racks are close to 30 years old! When they were bought, the shelves were a very dense particle board that has held up well. As there were little ones running around at that time, they were screwed into the walls for security….something to consider.
 
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badonk

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My Costco Gorilla racks are close to 30 years old! When they were bought, the shelves were a very dense particle board that has held up well. As there were little ones running around at that time, they were screwed into the walls for security….something to consider.
Yeah they came with straps to anchor to the walls which of course I didn't use. That was one of my ideas for the less sturdy tables - anchoring to the walls. For the gorilla racks with nothing on them, I climbed up and they were stable. That of course changes as they get loaded up and my config has no low weight to act as a ballast. So yes, great advice to anchor them to the wall.
 

gearhead1960

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Yeah they came with straps to anchor to the walls which of course I didn't use. That was one of my ideas for the less sturdy tables - anchoring to the walls. For the gorilla racks with nothing on them, I climbed up and they were stable. That of course changes as they get loaded up and my config has no low weight to act as a ballast. So yes, great advice to anchor them to the wall.
Mine are in front of OSB sheathed walls. We drilled small holes in the center and top shelves and sunk screws into the OSB. They’re not going anywhere.
 
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badonk

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Yeah the 110 has a short term home to get acclimated west and altitude while you get your space prepped...if needed of course. Some good roads for me to take it on out here as you know.
 
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badonk

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Lots going on. I brought the GSA up the other day. The ride up was perfect in that I had most weather conditions on the ride. Leaving Denver it was showing 88F. As soon as I started climbing on I70 it was 72F on the climb to Genesee. Then 45F over Berthoud pass with light rain showers. And finally 50F with some heavy rain on Rt40 into Tabernash.

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I brought my 3D printer up too and made a station on one of the tables. Now I can tackle a few projects. The Weathertech dog barrier in my 200 series had taken a few beatings - one problem was a plastic piece snapped. So I pulled it off, took out a set of calipers, and modeled up a replacement in OnShape. First try and I had a good fit printed in ASA. Not perfect but it will work.

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Then a bunch of random stuff which I'll break up into other posts.
 
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badonk

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I started building my own disc golf course on my property. This will be an object course and I'll wrap a tree trunk or stump with some tape, mark tee pads with downed trees, etc. No real baskets - apparently moose and elk will tear into baskets during rutting season.

I put a drone up and took a bunch of photos at max altitude with the camera angled straight down. Then I found some software to stitch it all together into one composite image. I thought that would be good to lay out a course but it is so difficult to tell the difference between small trees and more mature ones. Long story short, more work to do here. I can easily make 18 here...but this plan has lots of flaws.

While out building the course I ran across the bones of what is likely the remains of a moose. So let's make a tee box from them!

I'll take a page from Michael Jordan here and design my private course to suit my game.

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badonk

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The Icon tool box is working well. My original plan was to have 2 shops and have lots of duplicates between the two. BUt I won't be buying any more tools and instead will be combining what I have into one master set - also an opportunity to upgrade the things I have at the house in Denver. It isn't 100% optimized but will be plenty for my needs. The foam kits that came with my Icon, Astro, etc work well and I know I'll need to reorganize as I bring more up from the old shop.

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badonk

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And...about a month ago I noticed some mountain bluebirds starting to build a nest in a part of my house that wasn't yet finished. Then as the roofers were working on the siding they disturbed the nest building process. One of my wife's friends had given us a birdhouse with built in camera. So I set that up in a safe place for them...and voila, they found the house the next day and started building. She has laid 6 eggs and we are probably a week away from seeing what they become. In the video below the female has been tending to the eggs with the male bringing food and providing protection. Its pretty cool up here being able to observe nature.

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badonk

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And no pics of the details but I nailed down the problems with my '81 911SC, I hope. I thought the fuel system was gummed up from sitting. I drained the tank and the fuel looked ok. But let's replace the filter and accumulator just in case. Turns out the fuel pump is toast - won't fire up even when directly connected to a battery. So I have that on order with a few other things. And a bunch of gas I drained that might be ok. At todays gas prices its nice that there might be some upside.

The plan for the '81 euro SC is to make it into a budget safari build. It is/was a PCA E-class club race car. Not the prettiest thing nor will it ever be. Right now I need to get it running, put a muffler on it along with some non-race rubber to just move it. At that point I drive it up to the new shop to start the actual build. I'll probably do a coil-over kit from Elephant Racing and then try to re-make the interior into a street car. I need seats and belts since I sold that stuff. I'll get rid of the fiberglass bumpers and the big rear wing going back towards stock. I'll peel off the racing stickers, get a set of 15"/16" wheels with safari-ish tires (tall K02s or similar), then just drive it. Crazy - ages ago I sold the original seats, some H4s, a set of SSI heat exchangers, and other stuff for next to nothing.

Eventually I want to make my own bumper armor. There seem to be a few companies making skids but nobody making front and rear protection bars. Could be fun...maybe make a few extra to sell to those that are doing the same with their G-body 911.

More to come on the 1984 Audi urq as I get ready to bring that up. But that's it for the Friday night marathon post!

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badonk

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Happy Sunday everyone! So far I'm really happy with the way things worked out in the shop. I did a trial load of cars on the 4 post and it works perfectly for me. There isn't enough ceiling clearance for tall vehicles on the lift but I can pull my LX570 in below when I have lower and lighter cars on the lift. It is only rated to 9000 lbs so best to limit it to lighter weight cars. I still think I'd have been happier with bigger palette racks for wheel/tire and heavy duty storage - mostly because they'd be 3' deep vs the gorilla ones from Costco that are only 2' deep. The bench space is great and I'm already failing at leaving things out on the bench vs cleaning up as I finish a project and/or just finishing the projects. Speaking of benches, I'm hoping to hear from badass about the bench being done and shipping. They said to expect mid-June. And one thing that needs to be improved - I need to and add more lighting. I have lights on a stand that I'll use when under the car but I'd like more from the ceiling.

I drove the Audi up yesterday. It was over 90F in Denver and that had me carefully watching the temp gauge as I climbed out to cooler weather. It may have been fine and I may have been overly cautious. But I didn't want to be that guy on the side of I70 wiht the hood up and steam billowing out. I see that all the time. Driving through a small town on the way I noticed that both diff lock lights were on. Weird - I didn't activate them. So I pulled the lever to engage them, pushed it back in to disengage, and first the center light went off, then a bit later the rear light went off. Other than that pretty uneventful although the drive had me rethinking some kind of motor swap for more power.

The project car still isn't moving yet but I can confirm the new fuel pump works - the motor fired up although it was pretty rough and stalled. More work to do there next week and with CIS there are lots of things to check. Also I have plenty to do on what's already moved up to the shop.

Bird update - the eggs hatched on Friday and now the parents are spending their time feeding all the chickies. A little searching revealed that I need to add something to the pole to keep predators out. So I went to the hw store to get some supplies and found something pre-made for it. A cone that fits loosely and wobbles around. Done - hope it works! The house is only about 5 ft off the ground so I bet a racoon or determined squirrel could just jump over it? We'll see.

The disc golf course continues - my brother came up the other day and we did some walking and throwing to test layouts and play style. Of course some adjusting and then more play to dial it in. As I said before this will be an object course but instead of hitting a tree, I'll lay out some branches to make a small area on the ground as a target. To finish a hole - land the disc in that target zone. I'm not sure I'll go as far as marking fairways. It'll be a private course for me and my visitors so I don't really need it to be self explanatory.

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Nolift911

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,007
Location
Lansdowne, VA
All coming together! I still owe you a Defender height. Bird house is cool - does that squirrel deal work? I think we are going to go with a number of owl houses to keep the pests down. You thinking about a weather station - on my list.

Is the 4 post bolted? Is that all the way up and locked?
 
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badonk

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
218
All coming together! I still owe you a Defender height. Bird house is cool - does that squirrel deal work? I think we are going to go with a number of owl houses to keep the pests down. You thinking about a weather station - on my list.

Is the 4 post bolted? Is that all the way up and locked?
I'll put the Defender in the main garage so no need to measure. I don't think it'll fit under the 4 post lift whereas I know my 200-series will fit with the suspension set to low. It'll also be handy to have the Defender in the main garage when I need to haul trash and recycling. :ROFLMAO:

4 post not bolted. Installer says that he thinks they only recently started recommending bolting them down for legal reasons. Most don't. In that pic it might not be all the way up. But when I was raising it this time I'm standing at the front left corner of the lift trying to see what's going on at the back right corner. When raising its so tough to tell how much clearance there is without getting up on a ladder ... which I should do just so I know the limits. The 911s will fit up there no problem - the Audi is a little taller in the back so I could create more space by backing it on.
 

Swanny1953

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jul 28, 2010
Messages
1,052
Location
Lucas, TX
My BendPak double wide 4-post is bolted down as well. I think that was required when we installed it in 2018. The single wide 4-post is not bolted down and I have the casters to move it around. I can't imagine moving the double wide around on casters - it's just so much heavier construction.
With my double wide fully raised, I can get my stock 2019 Ram 1500 4x4 under it with no problem.
A few little labels on the post with the name of each car at the height you need to stop.
I use this on my lift in the original structure where the ceiling is only 10 feet. The Corvettes can be fully lifted, everything else has a piece of blue tape on the lift telling me where to stop.
 
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badonk

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Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
218
Alright! The '81 is just about prepped to make the journey. After putting the new fuel pump in (along with a filter and accumulator), she started up nicely. I've never really liked CIS fuel injection but I'm feeling much better about it now. I removed the megaphones and swapped a sensible muffler on it. I want to have heat in this car eventually so I'll likely get a set of SSIs with some kind of sport muffler. I wasn't comfortable driving on pretty old Hoosier R6s that had 4+ heat cycles. So I had the original phone dials that I can use for the drive. I not looking at the date codes on the tires! They just have to go 90 miles...

The brakes were squishy so I flushed the system with some new fluid. For good measure new oil and filter too. I do have a few oil leaks that I'll need to sort out - maybe head studs? I had plenty of fun beating on this car at the track so things like this are expected. It'll mess up my new floor!

I took it around the block, warming things up and just generally checking it out to be sure I'm all good. It is much faster than I remember. I had to double check my speed via GPS because I thought the speedo was off by 15 mph or so. This is definitely faster than the 3.2L carrera's I've driven in the past few years. Or at least it feels faster. This has the euro spec motor with 9.8 compression, larger intake runners and ports, etc. The end result is it's supposed to make 204hp and 197 lb-ft compared to US spec of 180hp and 175 lb-ft. That's roughly carrera numbers with more torque hitting a little earlier in the band. I don't remember what the corner weights were, but this car is probably 2550 lbs including about 100 lbs of ballast I had to run to make weight.


The headers and megaphones before
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Took the muffler from my original '72 motor - was not easy getting to the bolts when on a furniture cart.
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Needs a wash - and have to go to the DMV to re-register it. Just a tad expired.
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Body wise, I'll go back to the original front bumper setup and relocate the oil cooler back into the fender. I will definitely remove the big IROC wing - maybe go duck or naked?
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