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What's the one garage upgrade you wish you'd done sooner?

Fav Onefour

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Joined
Jul 14, 2022
Messages
743
Location
MN cold and hot
Power.

I ran a couple extra 20A circuits twenty years ago before I insulated and "finished" the space. If I had it to do over, I'd have put a big sub panel in the garage. My power is tapped out and it's affecting tool decisions. I walked away from a really good deal on compressor yesterday because I'd need to add power.

I'm super glad that I did the work upfront on lighting, insulation, and heating. The space is comfortable and easy to use. That's why I'm running out of power. It's too easy to work on projects so I keep adding good tools. :giggle:
 
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Hohn

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Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
2,786
Location
Diesel Central, Indiana
Garage was already drywalled and insulated when we moved in.

Probably need a minisplit, it’s crazy hot in summer.

Biggest updates to date have been shop air piping and a nema 6-50. There’s only so much you can do in town on a small quarter acre with a 3 car attached garage.
 
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Superbowl

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Joined
Feb 19, 2026
Messages
54
Location
DC area
1. Dehumidifier. I have lots of machine tools and now they don't rust. I also learned not to open the overhead door when cool inside and warmer and humid outside.

2. Cable TV
 

NUTTSGT

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Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,256
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Air conditioning.

I'd Iike to do a mini split but I'm hoping not to be here long enough to realize the investment. However, I do have window unit.
 

Hohn

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Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
2,786
Location
Diesel Central, Indiana
Air conditioning.

I'd Iike to do a mini split but I'm hoping not to be here long enough to realize the investment. However, I do have window unit.
I have a side door that I NEVER use (it was behind shelving for 15 year and only recently surfaced) and now you have me thinking that replacing that glass and mounting a window A/C unit would be a good idea.
Side door is a missed opportunity.
Heck, maybe I should start by opening it and getting some cross ventilation.
 

kwb

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Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
1,782
Location
PNW
Power was a big one for me. I was severely limited on budget (so I thought) and put in the conduit but not the wire to the house. Ran a single 12ga/20A outlet for a couple years. Bought the feeder wire for ~$500. After not having cords everywhere and lighting that was useful the $$$ was a mere pittance.

Forklift all day. I put in a Jib crane which is handy at times but the forklift is so much more useful. About the only time I use the Jib is to get something in the back of the truck when I have too much stuff in the way to use the forklift to do it.
 

Locke96

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Orange, Texas
For everyone that says a mini split or AC, how big is your space and what's a rough estimate it costs per month during summer to run it? Do you turn it on in the morning and run it down to as cool as the house is, or leave it on 24/7 and maybe only set it at something like 80 degrees?
 

Mike007

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Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
2,628
Retractable power and air reels. Always ready and out of the way immediately when done.
 

Jgaz

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Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,735
Location
AZ
For everyone that says a mini split or AC, how big is your space and what's a rough estimate it costs per month during summer to run it? Do you turn it on in the morning and run it down to as cool as the house is, or leave it on 24/7 and maybe only set it at something like 80 degrees?
I’m going to try to answer your questions but my use of my mini split may not be typical.
IMG_6453.jpeg
My garage is two bays deep on one side and a single bay deep on the other.
The shop bay shown in the above picture is a bit more than 16 feet deep and 11.5 feet wide.
The two bay area where the vehicles are parked is 20 x20 feet.
Not ideal, but typical for an Arizona builder.
Garage has a 10.5 foot ceiling height throughout the space.

Again, typical of an AZ builder, there was no insulation in the garage walls or ceiling.
House was a spec. so I had no choice with the builders stupid decisions.

I cut an access hatch in the ceiling and had a contractor blow in a **** ton of cellulose insulation.
I insulated the garage door using rigid foam panels and a radiant barrier.

You can see the mini split on the LH wall directly across from my woodworking bench
I use the mini split more like the swamp cooler in my previous AZ house than the use your questions asked about.

The A/C is turned on when I work in the shop bay. It is turned on when I start and turned off when I’m done working. I usually leave it run when I break for lunch.

Note: The garage metal surfaces heat soak to just over 100* during times A/C isn’t used.
Welcome to Phoenix!

Temp set is at 80*, blower speed from 75 to 100% during use
The fact that the unit blows right into the main area where I’m working makes it very comfortable compared to working in the area during an AZ summer of 110*

The fan on the back wall is key. I aim it at the area where I’m working.
For example, I’ll pivot it to the left if I have a lot to do at the drill press or table saw.
The cross wind makes a noticeable difference.

Given the size of the garage and the lack of wall insulation the mini split helps but certainly doesn’t cool the area where vehicles are parked to the same temp as the shop bay.
If I’m under the hood I may add a box fan on the metal bench or table saw table.
Again, maybe unique for the way I work. Not perfect but better than no A/C.

I do miss having the garage door open but……

I really can’t answer about the increased cost. It’s not much.
The average daytime temps outside make more difference in my monthly bill than the A/C costs.

Maybe not the ideal set up, but it allows me to work well into the afternoon during the hottest months of the year.
I built 6 pull out shelves last July. No way would I have started that project at that time of year before installing the mini split.

Hope this helps.
 

Skellyii

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Nov 13, 2021
Messages
1,791
Location
KC Area
For everyone that says a mini split or AC, how big is your space and what's a rough estimate it costs per month during summer to run it? Do you turn it on in the morning and run it down to as cool as the house is, or leave it on 24/7 and maybe only set it at something like 80 degrees?
Mini-split in an attached garage, 1000sqft 12ft ceilings, insulated. 3 garage doors are south facing with no trees.

It's on 24/7 365. If I'm not working that day, set to 82 during the summer, and FP mode during the winter.

Averages around $25-30/month
 

aggie113

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Joined
Jul 22, 2015
Messages
484
Location
San Antonio, TX
Since I still haven't done it, water. Plan is to put small room above part of the garage (18ft to rafters) with a bathroom and then a shop sink on the main floor. Will have to connect to house's septic.
 

pcmeiners

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Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
8,013
Location
In the only town in Pennsylvania, Bloomsburg.
need 50-60 amps out there first and foremost. Will wire for 60 Amps right off the bat. 30 is not sufficient for me.
Take some nitrobid before you see the prices of anything with copper. Thankfully I purchase wire for a run from the main to my attached garage 8 months ago (125 amp), yesterday I needed 1" L type copper pipe, $90 a stick was $50 last summer... and they say inflation is 3.5% !

Note, 60 amp is not sufficient, my original panel was 70 amps.

Good luck
 
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lolaetype

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Joined
Dec 11, 2019
Messages
2,130
Location
North Western Arkansas
This question is so easy to answer.

The lift.

I'd thought about it from time to time but never got serious about it. Then one day I'm in the garage with ramps, jackstands and a floor jack. The Boss is watching me struggle work. Then she asks, "Why don't you buy a lift?"

This was the spring of 2020. Covid is raging and BendPak had just bought MaxJax and is re-engineering the lift. I put in my order in June and in August we drove down to Mobile to pick up one of the first re-engineered units.
 
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PhantomEB

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Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
6,889
Location
Medicine Hat, AB, Canuckistan
Take some nitrobid before you see the prices of anything with copper. Thankfully I purchase wire for a run from the main to my attached garage 8 months ago (125 amp), yesterday I needed 1" L type copper pipe, $90 a stick was $50 last summer... and they say inflation is 3.5% !

Note, 60 amp is not sufficient, my original panel was 70 amps.

Good luck

You can get a heck of a lot done with 60A.


yup my last garage was a 24x24 with 9’6” ceiling.

12 4 t8 bulb fixtures on 4 switches, 3 220s (all on seperate circuits plus 27 110 outlets, even my beer fridge had a dedicated circuit, all on 30 amps. Couldnt run lots at once and had to make sure the 220v compressor didn’t turn on while welding.

This shop just needs an upgrade 2 20 amp circuits, one for each side wall plus a second 220 behind the the man door or at the back where I want to get a bigger compressor to provide adequate air to use the plasma cutter. 20 amps sure would give plenty of electrical current.
 

Overboost44

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Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
115
Location
MD
Right now I am a little focused on wanting better speakers for the shop, Been looking at JBL speakers of the Bluetooth version. Then just run SiriusXM off my phone.
Sonos are a bit expensive but I love them for my home theater. I run Sirius, or any music app or the TV.
 

MovingAlong

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Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
1,284
Task lighting. I've got Costco 4' led shop lights over every bench, toolbox and cabinet. :thumbup:

@Jgaz , have you considered any EIFS options? Two inches of foam glued to the exterior and then skimmed over with stucco.. The trapped heat in a concrete wall has to be significant. Saw it done quite a bit in FL, don't know if it's popular in AZ...
 

CJM8515

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Joined
Mar 8, 2014
Messages
9,326
Location
NJ
INSULATION!!!

I wish I had built my garage, it was here when I bought the house. the morons insulated the walls with what I can only figure out is the cheapest **** you can buy. If its R7 I would be shocked. But beggars cant be choosers and Im not tearing down the drywall or cutting holes and blowing stuff in. I did insulate the uninsulated attic with r30 and that made a huge difference.

I also wish I could find a model or btu output to the window unit a/c they cut a hole in the side of the wall for and installed. it works, but considering the air gaps in there-takes forever to cool down on a hot day.

If I could built my own
-dedicated 20 and 30 amp circuits for large tools. mult breakers so I dont overload stuff
-14ft tall ceilings. currently mine are 9ft and it makes putting shelves up and doing other stuff hard b/c its low
-mini split

those are must haves imho
 

Jgaz

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Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,735
Location
AZ
Task lighting. I've got Costco 4' led shop lights over every bench, toolbox and cabinet. :thumbup:

@Jgaz , have you considered any EIFS options? Two inches of foam glued to the exterior and then skimmed over with stucco.. The trapped heat in a concrete wall has to be significant. Saw it done quite a bit in FL, don't know if it's popular in AZ...
If I were going to do anything I would probably have the same contractor I used for the attic blow insulation into the walls.
Just not sure I want to go thru the hassle of pulling everything off the shelves etc. so they have access.
Contractor said they would want two holes per stud bay.
 

johnre

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Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
1,070
Location
Portland, OR
I thought of a few more:
  1. A built-in shop air system with regulators in strategic locations where needed, drops near the work benches, and placing my larger-but-still-portable air compressor out of the way on a remote hardwired switch. Along with a built-in retractable hose reel for wherever I needed air that wasn't near a drop.
  2. A built-in 5" dust collector main around the perimeter of the shop, with 4" drops and blast gates at strategic locations where needed. Along with - you guessed it - placing the dust collector out of the way and on a radio-link remote start.
  3. Putting in dedicated 240 V power outlets for each of these tools, so the power cords weren't underfoot.
I didn't have a lot of shop floor space available, but I did have an unfinished height-restricted space back of the shop that accommodated both of these tools outside of my main shop space. The air and dust piping was at ceiling level, so not much in the way, and the drops were pretty much straight down to where they were needed. The 240 V dedicated power outlets were right next to the tool.

My pet peeve for shop layout is unnecessarily consuming floor space and having to walk around larger tools that are poorly located, and as a result constantly having to step over power cords, air hoses, and especially dust hoses.
 

OccupantRJ

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Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
11,332
Location
Eastern North Carolina
Since I still haven't done it, water. Plan is to put small room above part of the garage (18ft to rafters) with a bathroom and then a shop sink on the main floor. Will have to connect to house's septic.
Look at a Liberty sewage tank/grinder pump for your bathroom if the piping slope requirement does not work out. I have a 42 gallon unit and it pumps 100 feet through a 2” pvc line to my septic tank, activated by an internal float switch.
 

u2slow

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Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
3,625
Location
BC
Unfortunately, funding put the brakes on completing my shop.

In a world where i had more money, should have got the ceiling closed up and the mezzanine fully built out. Those are now the biggest things to tackle 14 years later.
 

Metal-Marc

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Aug 31, 2009
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7,358
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Foothills of the Adirondacks
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