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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Texas Barn in PA

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
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loganb

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You would think I had the sense to think of that at the time, but unfortunately other than the breaker that’s the only switch in the garage for it. I usually leave the light on in the bunker to remind myself to switch the air off at night, so I flip the switch on the compressor for now. I was hoping to do something smart so I wouldn’t have to run wires. You have a suggestion from the smart home auto system world? Just something simple without a subscription?

This was my solution for a wireless relay to turn power to the compressor on/off


The app is free and seems to work well but I don't use it, just put the button on the wall next to the door into the house.

Small enough it fits into a junction box... Going on a year and no issues so far! Need to finish the execution and at least put a larger LED light on so it's easier to know if the outlet is hot or not ... Haven't got there yet

Screenshot_20260728_215128_Photos.jpg
 
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madison069

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This was my solution for a wireless relay to turn power to the compressor on/off


The app is free and seems to work well but I don't use it, just put the button on the wall next to the door into the house.

Small enough it fits into a junction box... Going on a year and no issues so far! Need to finish the execution and at least put a larger LED light on so it's easier to know if the outlet is hot or not ... Haven't got there yet

Screenshot_20260728_215128_Photos.jpg
I just ordered the stuff to make up what you got there! When I upgrade to a 240V I might can put this to another 120V equipment so it can be used still.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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Charlotte, NC
This was my solution for a wireless relay to turn power to the compressor on/off


The app is free and seems to work well but I don't use it, just put the button on the wall next to the door into the house.

Small enough it fits into a junction box... Going on a year and no issues so far! Need to finish the execution and at least put a larger LED light on so it's easier to know if the outlet is hot or not ... Haven't got there yet

Screenshot_20260728_215128_Photos.jpg
Awesome. I was trying to see if I could find a non smart version for him when I mentioned it but never stumbled on this. Glad someone else already had found one.
 
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madison069

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One heck of a transformation there. Nice work.

That comes after you've finished the project.

Doors are gonna look nice.

Thanks guys! It’s been a project I’ve wanted to do since I started the siding of the Texas barn. Using up most of the siding small pieces is making it easier to store the left over pieces in the bunker now. Soon the side along the wall by the camaro will be cleared of all of the siding stuff.
 
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madison069

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Got a few things done during lunch time.

One item was to plane the inside door area so they close without hitting one another. If you’re a planer purist who cringes when someone might use a planer incorrectly, look away.

I brought out the 9” planer I have and shaved the door jamb down so I got a 1/8” gap between the doors now. It’s twerking now!
IMG_4244.jpeg

I also installed the door latch and drilled their holes.
IMG_4246.jpegIMG_4247.jpeg

I installed the gooseneck solar light above the door. I’m debating to paint it white but black does look good here.

IMG_4245.jpeg

Then I did the caulk job to fill in the gaps. The 2x4 is glued to the plywood along with screws all along the back of the door is holding the 2x4 to the plywood. So I wanted to reduce the amount of water that can get in between the two woods. I see I missed a spot so I’ll get it before I paint it.

IMG_4248.jpeg

Maybe I can get the wife to paint the doors?

Oh well it will have to wait til tonight.
 
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madison069

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They got the first coat on while I was busy with other stuff. Will put a second coat on this weekend.

IMG_4260.jpeg
IMG_4261.jpeg

And my little goose neck solar lamp above the door adds a nice ambiance at night.
IMG_4265.jpeg

So add the little strip on the side, second coat of paint on the doors, and put the vent in the rear.

Then it’s remove everything inside and clean it for painting.
 
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madison069

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Well, I got the inside cleaned out and took out all of the junky shelves.
Junky shelves.
IMG_4272.jpeg
IMG_4273.jpeg
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Without the shelves,
IMG_4279.jpeg

After spraying the walls three coats of latex paint it wasn’t covering the walls very well. That wood was soaking up the paint. It would look good as I was spraying it but then I look back at the area and it would be soaked dry and almost looked unpainted.

The floor I rolled the paint on. If I paint the walls again I’ll either just bust out a big brush or try a different sprayer.

But the walls will just have to be what it is.
IMG_4280.jpeg

With the rain coming tomorrow I need to let this dry and get the stuff back into the shed tonight.

Not proud of the inside but atleast it’s ok.
 
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madison069

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Looking at the bunker door, working on ideas for it and something I’m not 100% sure about and figured I’d ask the others here what they thought.

Besides rusting, is there any issues with lining this opening with 1/2” steel plate to weld hinges to the frame? There is a metal plate at the top that I would weld the side plates to and the bottom will get welded also, so one continuous steel plate frame. I’d like to install something that permanent and not going to have trouble with in the next 50 years. After that it’s someone else’s problem.
IMG_4296.jpeg

I would mount the side metal lining with anchor bolts, and the bottom plate will have anchor welded on the underside to sink into the concrete that will fill the void of the blocks at the bottom of the doorway. So with the anchor bolts and welded corners, it would be well secured.

Other option is just the standard 2x6 pressure treated wood and I’d still like to put a metal threshold to withstand the beating from dragging equipment over it.

Thoughts?
 

jblnut

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I brought out the 9” planer I have and shaved the door jamb down so I got a 1/8” gap between the doors now. It’s twerking now !
I’ve been known to go after wood with a metal disc on an angle grinder in a similar situation. It’s likely less precise than using a planer but works in a pinch.

Shed looks great !!


Looking at the bunker door, working on ideas for it and something I’m not 100% sure about and figured I’d ask the others here what they thought.

Besides rusting, is there any issues with lining this opening with 1/2” steel plate to weld hinges to the frame? There is a metal plate at the top that I would weld the side plates to and the bottom will get welded also, so one continuous steel plate frame. I’d like to install something that permanent and not going to have trouble with in the next 50 years. After that it’s someone else’s problem.
IMG_4296.jpeg

I would mount the side metal lining with anchor bolts, and the bottom plate will have anchor welded on the underside to sink into the concrete that will fill the void of the blocks at the bottom of the doorway. So with the anchor bolts and welded corners, it would be well secured.

Other option is just the standard 2x6 pressure treated wood and I’d still like to put a metal threshold to withstand the beating from dragging equipment over it.

Thoughts?
If you’re not worried about the top plate rusting out I wouldn’t be worried about the bottom/side plates having issues either. Paint them in a rust inhibiting paint before installing and after welding and don’t worry about it again.

If you really want to get silly you could get some 1/2” 304SS to make the door frame and sill. Likely have to take out a second mortgage but they shouldn’t rust :lol_hitti
 
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madison069

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considering the metal plate across the top of the basement windows in the house isn't rusted out and they were installed in 1950's, I don't think it will be an issue really. But just thinking out loud in case I missed something that's bad about the idea of lining the opening with metal.
 

Hooked

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League City, Texas
I’ve been known to go after wood with a metal disc on an angle grinder in a similar situation. It’s likely less precise than using a planer but works in a pinch.

Shed looks great !!



If you’re not worried about the top plate rusting out I wouldn’t be worried about the bottom/side plates having issues either. Paint them in a rust inhibiting paint before installing and after welding and don’t worry about it again.

If you really want to get silly you could get some 1/2” 304SS to make the door frame and sill. Likely have to take out a second mortgage but they shouldn’t rust :lol_hitti
Just got a quote for some 1/8" 304SS 4'x5' -- $681, so......;)
 
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madison069

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Since that looks like a non-standard size opening, have you considered a sliding barn door on the exterior?
The plan is to install veneer stone on the cinder block wall to dress it up some, so an exterior barn door wouldn't work.
Barn door on a barn, hmmmm…..
And you could weld a big giant star onto it so nobody gets confused! 😂
It has cross my mind.
Just got a quote for some 1/8" 304SS 4'x5' -- $681, so......;)

I need to call the metal supplier to see what's the cost of the steel will be. They can also cut the metal to dimension, so I won't have to cut the plate.
 
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