Ridgid tools good still?

[Sanderguy777]

I have some old Ridgid tools ( 10yrs old) that are getting slower. I know that happens, but I'm wondering if the company is still worth investing in or if I should go DeWalt.

I like the idea of the LSA, and my tools have it, but I have no experience with it, and if the tools are generally junk, then I don't want to have an everlasting trash heap to deal with when I like the feel of Bosch and DeWalt better.

Please give opinions on the quality of their newer tools and specifically recommendations for an impact driver or recip saw.

 

[d.mcfarland]

I wouldn't put any real trust in TTI to keep anything Ridgid around other than to create fake competition for Milwaukee. That's my conspiracy theory at least.

The Ridgid or the Dewalt will serve you just fine. For a wide variety of tasks. Some buy on price, others on availability such as specialty tools.

 

[vavet]

I like Ridgid. I like their LSA (lifetime service agreement, don’t call it a warranty).

if I was going to jump ship, I’d go Milwaukee. Their tools feel precise, powerful, and light compared to other brands.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I wouldn't put any real trust in TTI to keep anything Ridgid around other than to create fake competition for Milwaukee. That's my conspiracy theory at least.

The Ridgid or the Dewalt will serve you just fine. For a wide variety of tasks. Some buy on price, others on availability such as specialty tools.

I have both platforms so the issue would be whether the Ridgid is decent quality and the LSA is real.

DeWalt is obviously better, but the LSA is unbeatable if it really works

 

[mrvm]

Nothing negative to say about Ridgid power tools or LSA. Ridgid has a decent range of power tools for cutting, drilling and impacting. LSA replaced 9 dead nicads from several years ago with lithium which is an upgrade and I can use them to power other brands or Ridgid.

 

[Burt Shaver]

I have both platforms so the issue would be whether the Ridgid is decent quality and the LSA is real.

DeWalt is obviously better, but the LSA is unbeatable if it really works

I can say that the LSA is real, I’ve had 2 coil roofing nailers in, no issue. And they work better then any other brand I’ve tried, Off
the top of my head those would be mastercraft, Bostich, Dewalt

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I have some older Bosch cordless tools which have served me more than well. Take a look at Bosch is replacing.

 

[mbatarga]

I converted to Ridgid over 10 years ago and have about 20+ tools that run on their 18V platform - including yard blowers and woodworking tools. I hope they stay around for a while! I've only had 1 battery go bad which was replaced under warranty.

 

[Sanderguy777]

It sounds like they're worth keeping around, then. Thanks all!


Incidentally, anyone know what line of batteries would be good for a circ saw and recip? I have the basic kit, but only two 4ah batteries with like 6 2ah. Basically nothing worth even putting on either saw. The recip made 12 cuts through 4x4 PT posts (pretty dry, definitely not sopping wet) and went through a 2ah, and 1.5 4ah batteries!

 

[AEAdam]

I have a couple thoughts:

1) On drivers, PLEASE think long and hard about 12V.
Not sure 100% why, but I bought the 2 Milwaukee M12 drivers, the normal one and the Surge. The Surge isn't crazy quieter or crazy less vibration. Surge is supposed to be way less torque. But to be clear, torque and impact are kinda 2 different phenomena physics wise. Consequently, for 99% of what I do with my drivers, I have ZERO problems with the Surge. That said, its more expensive than the other one so maybe just get that. And to be clear - I'm not saying I think you have to choose Milwaukee. Only that I think, with brushless motors, new battery management circuits, 12V doesn't mean 2/3 the power of 18V. They have plenty of power in a smaller, lighter weight package. Maybe just shorter battery life.

2) On saws, ABSOLUTELY the blades make a huge difference. Especially circ saws. I like the thin kerf Diablo fine finish blades for just about everything. For recip saws, again I use Diablo because they are (pretty) cheap and readily accessible. I swap them less often than I should, but pretty often.

Just a thought: I have the Bosch CS180 18V 6-1/2" circ saw. This saw works with Bosch's older track system, before they switched to the Festool style track. But the CS180 is NOT a track saw, doesn't plunge, doesn't tilt on the track. I used the HECK out of that little saw for breaking down plywood. Before I bought another little portable circ saw, I'd poke around and see I could find one that runs on track. That Bosch track was never imported into the US. I bought it in the UK. You can (or could) buy it from Amazon.co.uk or .de But the option to put it on track has beeen very very nice.

I bought the Milwaukee 18V track saw and new track. That's really a bench top tool, not really a general carpentry tool. If I had it to do all over again, I would have chosen Makita. If a track saw is in your future, maybe head in that direction now.

One more thing about the tracksaw you didn't ask about. The Makita uses 2 "normal" 18V batteries. So its really a common battery set up. The Milwaukee uses a single 18V battery that's technically compatible with all your other M18 tools, but is really too big for normal hand tools, such that, in essence, its a stand alone battery platform. In a pinch, you could put a smaller battery on it, but you will barely finish a cut with a normal (drill driver sized) battery.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I have a couple thoughts:

1) On drivers, PLEASE think long and hard about 12V.
Not sure 100% why, but I bought the 2 Milwaukee M12 drivers, the normal one and the Surge. The Surge isn't crazy quieter or crazy less vibration. Surge is supposed to be way less torque. But to be clear, torque and impact are kinda 2 different phenomena physics wise. Consequently, for 99% of what I do with my drivers, I have ZERO problems with the Surge. That said, its more expensive than the other one so maybe just get that. And to be clear - I'm not saying I think you have to choose Milwaukee. Only that I think, with brushless motors, new battery management circuits, 12V doesn't mean 2/3 the power of 18V. They have plenty of power in a smaller, lighter weight package. Maybe just shorter battery life.

2) On saws, ABSOLUTELY the blades make a huge difference. Especially circ saws. I like the thin kerf Diablo fine finish blades for just about everything. For recip saws, again I use Diablo because they are (pretty) cheap and readily accessible. I swap them less often than I should, but pretty often.

Just a thought: I have the Bosch CS180 18V 6-1/2" circ saw. This saw works with Bosch's older track system, before they switched to the Festool style track. But the CS180 is NOT a track saw, doesn't plunge, doesn't tilt on the track. I used the HECK out of that little saw for breaking down plywood. Before I bought another little portable circ saw, I'd poke around and see I could find one that runs on track. That Bosch track was never imported into the US. I bought it in the UK. You can (or could) buy it from Amazon.co.uk or .de But the option to put it on track has beeen very very nice.

I bought the Milwaukee 18V track saw and new track. That's really a bench top tool, not really a general carpentry tool. If I had it to do all over again, I would have chosen Makita. If a track saw is in your future, maybe head in that direction now.

One more thing about the tracksaw you didn't ask about. The Makita uses 2 "normal" 18V batteries. So its really a common battery set up. The Milwaukee uses a single 18V battery that's technically compatible with all your other M18 tools, but is really too big for normal hand tools, such that, in essence, its a stand alone battery platform. In a pinch, you could put a smaller battery on it, but you will barely finish a cut with a normal (drill driver sized) battery.

Yeah, that is the next tool I plan on. And almost certainly the Makita or a cheaper festool (looking at the prices, ironically the ts55 is actually competitive, at least if I don't use festool accessories for the track ).

I do like the Milwaukee one, though. Why do you say it's not a construction tool? I would argue that track saws in general are a finish tool at least, definitely not something one would typically use in framing, unless sheathing is considered framing. I'm really just curious why it seems like you think the Makita is different.

Yes, blades make a HUGE difference. Years ago I finally bought a jigsaw on the advice of a bunch of people (possibly on here, actually) because I'd had so many issues with the older saws and cheapo blades. The new saw and blades were bosch and I'll never go back to cheapo blades. Diablo makes decent blades for them too, but I don't use them enough to say which is better.

The recip saw was using a brand new Diablo carbide-tooth nail in wood blade, so it had all the advantages. the tool and batteries are just old or the charger has a problem. Idk what, but I'm going to call in and ask about the LSA.

 

[neophyte]

Yeah, that is the next tool I plan on. And almost certainly the Makita or a cheaper festool (looking at the prices, ironically the ts55 is actually competitive, at least if I don't use festool accessories for the track ).

I do like the Milwaukee one, though. Why do you say it's not a construction tool? I would argue that track saws in general are a finish tool at least, definitely not something one would typically use in framing, unless sheathing is considered framing. I'm really just curious why it seems like you think the Makita is different.

Yes, blades make a HUGE difference. Years ago I finally bought a jigsaw on the advice of a bunch of people (possibly on here, actually) because I'd had so many issues with the older saws and cheapo blades. The new saw and blades were bosch and I'll never go back to cheapo blades. Diablo makes decent blades for them too, but I don't use them enough to say which is better.

The recip saw was using a brand new Diablo carbide-tooth nail in wood blade, so it had all the advantages. the tool and batteries are just old or the charger has a problem. Idk what, but I'm going to call in and ask about the LSA.

The spring loaded bases most track saws use for the plunging technique, are incompatible with standard cutting techniques used for circular saws.
This essentially makes a “track saw”, just a track saw.

There are certain “track saws” that can be used like a traditional circular saw, the system Mafell used on most of their saws for instance, and the system used for the Festool saws with the saw attachable tracks for miter cutting.
Most track saws however are based on the older spring loaded base design of the older Festool designs that became popular, and these spring loaded bases require pushing down on the saw to expose the blade, which can cause lack of control and safety issue when not used with tracks, unless the saw is used in a highly controlled manner, such as trimming floor edging next to a wall, where the wall/floor corner essentially acts as the track.

The “simpler” “track saws” are just circular saws with a track groove, and some manufacturers now offer this type of base on some circular saws, as did Festool 20-30 years ago, but this is still uncommon for many saw models.

Incidentally, hand held circular saws and grinders are probably more dangerous than table saws as far as potential severity of injuries go, since you cannot only lose fingers, or a hand, but you can also have a saw kickback into an artery or your chest, leading to death. (This is from OSHA accident reports).

 

[Aaron_W]

Personally I wouldn't buy into Ridgid cordless from scratch these days, not based on tool quality but simply cost and the fairly limited number of tools. The tools and batteries are not significantly cheaper than Milwaukee seems to run 10-15% cheaper in many cases. At the same time Ryobi (also TTI) often runs 15-20% cheaper than Ridgid and Ryobi has a huge range of tools. So Ridgid isn't going to save a huge amount over going with one of the major name brands. They have added 6ah and 8ah batteries which are almost essential for power hungry tools like a saw, but they are not cheap.

Already invested into the platform though changes the math. Some things to think about:
How deep are you into the platform (tools, but more importantly batteries, owned vs needed to continue)?
How many tools are you going to want that are not even offered in the brand?
How many more tools do you need to add?
Use, do you really need the top of the line and are willing to pay for it? Many of the budget brands are more than adequate for DIY and light commercial use.

To me if you are just looking to add a tool or two and you will be set, then I see no reason to switch. On the other hand if you are adding or need to replace multiple tools, maybe it is time to rip the band aid off and jump into something different.

Also important to remember, it is Ok to have 2 or more battery platforms. You don't have to throw out perfectly good tools just because you changed brands. I have 5 different battery types (Makita, Ryobi, Bauer, Hercules and Dremel), and the battery cops have not shown up at my house.

When it comes to corded tools I'm heavily biased towards Milwaukee, Bosch, Dewalt, and Makita, with some Ridgid, and Bauer rounding it out. With cordless I've gone heavily into Bauer, Hercules (Harbor Freight), and Ryobi with a little Makita thrown in. Simply these more budget friendly tool have been more than good enough for my cordless needs and saved me a lot of money.
In my opinion Bauer is the current budget king for cordless, offering decent tools, a good range of tool options and really good prices. They also have very good prices on the batteries which is where cordless tools really get you in the end.

On the warranty issue, in my entire life I can't remember ever using a warranty on a power tool beyond the standard minimum 90 days. Basically with power tools they either work out of the box or they don't. If they work, then they tend to work a long time. I think lifetime warranties are more marketing than real value and you do pay for that lifetime warranty.


I feel like Lowes and Home Depot are giving their in house brands the short end. Lowes seems to be edging out Kobalt for Craftsman. HD isn't as bad with Ridgid, but they don't seem to be supporting the cordless line as well as they could.

All that said, it is just a matter of time until I dive into Milwaukee's M12 line. Their M18 line doesn't offer anything to woo me over to them, but they seem to stand alone in the 12v arena with some really nice compact tools.

 

[Sanderguy777]

The spring loaded bases most track saws use for the plunging technique, are incompatible with standard cutting techniques used for circular saws.
This essentially makes a “track saw”, just a track saw.

There are certain “track saws” that can be used like a traditional circular saw, the system Mafell used on most of their saws for instance, and the system used for the Festool saws with the saw attachable tracks for miter cutting.
Most track saws however are based on the older spring loaded base design of the older Festool designs that became popular, and these spring loaded bases require pushing down on the saw to expose the blade, which can cause lack of control and safety issue when not used with tracks, unless the saw is used in a highly controlled manner, such as trimming floor edging next to a wall, where the wall/floor corner essentially acts as the track.

The “simpler” “track saws” are just circular saws with a track groove, and some manufacturers now offer this type of base on some circular saws, as did Festool 20-30 years ago, but this is still uncommon for many saw models.

Incidentally, hand held circular saws and grinders are probably more dangerous than table saws as far as potential severity of injuries go, since you cannot only lose fingers, or a hand, but you can also have a saw kickback into an artery or your chest, leading to death. (This is from OSHA accident reports).

Interesting. I was not aware that the action on the base was that strong. I suppose it would have to be to support the weight of all but the base plate.

And yeah, angle grinders and circ saws are probably the scariest tools I've used. The miter saw seems like about as safe a tool as you can get. It would have to break or you put your hand somewhere bad to get a serious injury (I have sprained my thumb on one when I jammed the blade down on a too-small board that kicked back, but I don't think that's a common or serious injury).

 

[Sanderguy777]

Personally I wouldn't buy into Ridgid cordless from scratch these days, not based on tool quality but simply cost and the fairly limited number of tools. The tools and batteries are not significantly cheaper than Milwaukee seems to run 10-15% cheaper in many cases. At the same time Ryobi (also TTI) often runs 15-20% cheaper than Ridgid and Ryobi has a huge range of tools. So Ridgid isn't going to save a huge amount over going with one of the major name brands. They have added 6ah and 8ah batteries which are almost essential for power hungry tools like a saw, but they are not cheap.

Already invested into the platform though changes the math. Some things to think about:
How deep are you into the platform (tools, but more importantly batteries, owned vs needed to continue)?
How many tools are you going to want that are not even offered in the brand?
How many more tools do you need to add?
Use, do you really need the top of the line and are willing to pay for it? Many of the budget brands are more than adequate for DIY and light commercial use.

To me if you are just looking to add a tool or two and you will be set, then I see no reason to switch. On the other hand if you are adding or need to replace multiple tools, maybe it is time to rip the band aid off and jump into something different.

Also important to remember, it is Ok to have 2 or more battery platforms. You don't have to throw out perfectly good tools just because you changed brands. I have 5 different battery types (Makita, Ryobi, Bauer, Hercules and Dremel), and the battery cops have not shown up at my house.

When it comes to corded tools I'm heavily biased towards Milwaukee, Bosch, Dewalt, and Makita, with some Ridgid, and Bauer rounding it out. With cordless I've gone heavily into Bauer, Hercules (Harbor Freight), and Ryobi with a little Makita thrown in. Simply these more budget friendly tool have been more than good enough for my cordless needs and saved me a lot of money.
In my opinion Bauer is the current budget king for cordless, offering decent tools, a good range of tool options and really good prices. They also have very good prices on the batteries which is where cordless tools really get you in the end.

On the warranty issue, in my entire life I can't remember ever using a warranty on a power tool beyond the standard minimum 90 days. Basically with power tools they either work out of the box or they don't. If they work, then they tend to work a long time. I think lifetime warranties are more marketing than real value and you do pay for that lifetime warranty.


I feel like Lowes and Home Depot are giving their in house brands the short end. Lowes seems to be edging out Kobalt for Craftsman. HD isn't as bad with Ridgid, but they don't seem to be supporting the cordless line as well as they could.

All that said, it is just a matter of time until I dive into Milwaukee's M12 line. Their M18 line doesn't offer anything to woo me over to them, but they seem to stand alone in the 12v arena with some really nice compact tools.

Yeah. completely agree with the 12v. No one even comes close to m12 that I've seen.

I own Ridgid (about 6 batteries, impact driver, drill, hammer drill (not a rotary hammer), circ and recip saws, and a flood light). I also own some non fuel m12 (NEVER buy those. The drill and impact have BARELY enough torque to do much of anything ). And a Bosch impact, some Ryobi stuff, and about the same as the Ridgid in DeWalt (except there I have only the best batteries. 4, 5, 6 AH and a couple 1.5ah power stacks).

I have no issue with having more than one battery, but the issue with Ridgid is the LSA. people seem to stand by it and think that it is amazing. I don't do any of this professionally, so I don't have any excuse for more power, but I also have used for other tools that m18 and D20v offer. I just don't want to end up 10 years down the line needing replacement batteries like I do now with the Ridgid. I mean, that's like $400 in batteries anyway. And that's a good sale for two 2ah and a 4ah in a kit for $200.

If I WAS to go full bore into a new line,the one I WANT is Bosch. They're the most comfortable in my hand. DeWalt is close, and I haven't used Milwaukee in years.

 

[Aaron_W]

The drill and impact have BARELY enough torque to do much of anything ).

Wow that is pretty sad. I've run a 6" hole saw with my Bauer and I had to be careful not to twist my hand off, $40 tool only.

Batteries do make a difference, I don't even bother with anything smaller than 3ah, and mostly run the 5ah since HF frequently has the 2 packs of those on sale for around $100. They also offer 8ah and 12ah.

I know Harbor Freight, but they seem very determined to use Bauer take over the market Ryobi, Ridgid and Kobalt currently have. Hercules is still kind a weird spot, technically their top tier tools, but in some ways kind of the very ambitious little brother to Bauer.

 

[woody 73]

Don't get me wrong I love cordless tools but darn all those battery platforms and all the dead batteries or waiting to charge them is not fun. So, what's an old geezer like me do, good question you ask, why I hunt those garage sales and picked up a used Milwaukee recip saw with power cord for dirt cheap and I've used the mother fxxking **** out of it, still going strong and it will be still going long after I've kicked the bucket. Your call op.

 

[Steve_P]

No way I'd buy cordless Ridgid tools. Ask the guys that bought into Flex or Porter Cable cordless how that worked out. I'm a DeWalt fan but also have Ryobi and very happy with both. You can't go wrong with red, yellow or green as they offer tons of tools and there are lots of sales; I've got ~20 DeWalt tools and batteries and have probably only paid list price for one because I needed it "now".

 

[Steve_P]

Don't get me wrong I love cordless tools but darn all those battery platforms and all the dead batteries or waiting to charge them is not fun. So, what's an old geezer like me do, good question you ask, why I hunt those garage sales and picked up a used Milwaukee recip saw with power cord for dirt cheap and I've used the mother fxxking **** out of it, still going strong and it will be still going long after I've kicked the bucket. Your call op.

This is all fine until you need to do something in your attic with no power outlets or lights. By the time you run the extension cord, the guy with the cordless tools and lights is finished and drinking a beer celebrating a job well done- this is what made me finally bite the bullet on cordless ~15 years ago

 

[AEAdam]

Yeah, that is the next tool I plan on. And almost certainly the Makita or a cheaper festool (looking at the prices, ironically the ts55 is actually competitive, at least if I don't use festool accessories for the track ).

I don’t know jack about festool. Just verify you can run Diablo or Freud blades in them. You basically can’t in the Milwaukee.

I do like the Milwaukee one, though. Why do you say it's not a construction tool? I would argue that track saws in general are a finish tool at least, definitely not something one would typically use in framing, unless sheathing is considered framing. I'm really just curious why it seems like you think the Makita is different.

For general carpentry, cutting framing members, stair treads etc a track saw is the wrong tool. Festool has a saw with a short semi fixed base I’ve seen the guys use on this old house. I think you need to be able to operate your circ saw one handed for a host of reasons. So yeah, for general construction, you want a lightweight cordless 6-1/2” circ saw. No tracksaw will ever replace that.

The Milwaukee requires a battery so big that it isn’t really functionally compatible with your other tools meaning, it doesn’t really matter if you have Milwaukee tools or not. I will likely never put my tracksaw batteries on any other Milwaukee tools. That’s my #2 gripe.

#1 gripe is that the riving knife width is wider than some really attractive saw blades meaning you can’t run the saw with those blades with the knife in place. The Milwaukee saw is really designed for Milwaukee blades which simply aren’t as good as those available for Makita.

Bottomline, Marita's tracksaw has better blades, better ability to swap to aftermarket blades and uses 2 smaller batteries instead of one big one, allowing real compatibility with other tools.

 

[Sanderguy777]

Wow that is pretty sad. I've run a 6" hole saw with my Bauer and I had to be careful not to twist my hand off, $40 tool only.

Batteries do make a difference, I don't even bother with anything smaller than 3ah, and mostly run the 5ah since HF frequently has the 2 packs of those on sale for around $100. They also offer 8ah and 12ah.

I know Harbor Freight, but they seem very determined to use Bauer take over the market Ryobi, Ridgid and Kobalt currently have. Hercules is still kind a weird spot, technically their top tier tools, but in some ways kind of the very ambitious little brother to Bauer.

You talking about 12v? Cause that's was I was saying (maybe that wasn't clean).

Bauer does seem like a decent tool. My issue with HF tools is I didn't see them till after I had all the other ones . I also really like the little stupid tools from Ryobi like the glue gun and blower. If I had to start over, I'd probably go that route or just go full Milwaukee or DeWalt

 

[Sanderguy777]

Don't get me wrong I love cordless tools but darn all those battery platforms and all the dead batteries or waiting to charge them is not fun. So, what's an old geezer like me do, good question you ask, why I hunt those garage sales and picked up a used Milwaukee recip saw with power cord for dirt cheap and I've used the mother fxxking **** out of it, still going strong and it will be still going long after I've kicked the bucket. Your call op.

I was tempted.

 

[Sanderguy777]

No way I'd buy cordless Ridgid tools. Ask the guys that bought into Flex or Porter Cable cordless how that worked out. I'm a DeWalt fan but also have Ryobi and very happy with both. You can't go wrong with red, yellow or green as they offer tons of tools and there are lots of sales; I've got ~20 DeWalt tools and batteries and have probably only paid list price for one because I needed it "now".

Porter Cable was MAYBE Ryobi quality. Flex was a newcomer that died off for whatever reason.

Ridgid is a plumbing company with a good rep that lease the rights to their power tools to TTI. I agree that they aren't reliable for keeping a tool line around (subcompact, octane, gen5, etc), but if the warranty is good and they replace it with something the same or better, that's enough for me. The only thing I want back is the Jobmax line. That was some great engineering.

That opinion WILL change if they don't honor the LSA, but everything I've heard is that they do.

 

[Aaron_W]

You talking about 12v? Cause that's was I was saying (maybe that wasn't clean).

Bauer does seem like a decent tool. My issue with HF tools is I didn't see them till after I had all the other ones . I also really like the little stupid tools from Ryobi like the glue gun and blower. If I had to start over, I'd probably go that route or just go full Milwaukee or DeWalt

No sorry 18v, I thought you were saying your 18v Ridgid drill and impact driver were really weak. I didn't know they offered a 12v so I was surprised you found them weak.

That is another reason I like Ryobi and Bauer, they have quite a few weird tools. I bought a Bauer cordless glue gun, basically on a whim during one of the many HF 20% off items under $30 sales. I love that thing. I've also got a little pressure washer made to run from a bucket of water. Handy for small jobs.

I've got some odd Ryobi tools like that as well, but I'm mostly into Ryobi for the yard tools.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I don’t know jack about festool. Just verify you can run Diablo or Freud blades in them. You basically can’t in the Milwaukee.

For general carpentry, cutting framing members, stair treads etc a track saw is the wrong tool. Festool has a saw with a short semi fixed base I’ve seen the guys use on this old house. I think you need to be able to operate your circ saw one handed for a host of reasons. So yeah, for general construction, you want a lightweight cordless 6-1/2” circ saw. No tracksaw will ever replace that.

The Milwaukee requires a battery so big that it isn’t really functionally compatible with your other tools meaning, it doesn’t really matter if you have Milwaukee tools or not. I will likely never put my tracksaw batteries on any other Milwaukee tools. That’s my #2 gripe.

#1 gripe is that the riving knife width is wider than some really attractive saw blades meaning you can’t run the saw with those blades with the knife in place. The Milwaukee saw is really designed for Milwaukee blades which simply aren’t as good as those available for Makita.

Bottomline, Marita's tracksaw has better blades, better ability to swap to aftermarket blades and uses 2 smaller batteries instead of one big one, allowing real compatibility with other tools.

Ah, those are really good points! I didn't know the riving knife issue or the battery issue. There is a CMT (I think it was) blade that Wittworks recommended with one of his track saw videos that looked really good. It worked on his Milwaukee ,iirc.

I would argue that I have to use 6ah batteries that are too large for my drills on them anyway, so maybe it would work ok for a pinch. That said, I do understand and agree 2 smaller batteries might be a better option since I don't have anything else I need giant batteries for (chainsaw, major demo with the recip, etc).

Makta definitely seems like a better option. I already basically chose DeWalt nailers and this makes me not want Milwaukee's track saw, either. Seems like I don't have any use for the m18 line since the only compelling tools they have aren't as nice or aren't as affordable as others.

 

[AEAdam]

Ah, those are really good points! I didn't know the riving knife issue or the battery issue. There is a CMT (I think it was) blade that Wittworks recommended with one of his track saw videos that looked really good. It worked on his Milwaukee ,iirc.

I would argue that I have to use 6ah batteries that are too large for my drills on them anyway, so maybe it would work ok for a pinch. That said, I do understand and agree 2 smaller batteries might be a better option since I don't have anything else I need giant batteries for (chainsaw, major demo with the recip, etc).

Makta definitely seems like a better option. I already basically chose DeWalt nailers and this makes me not want Milwaukee's track saw, either. Seems like I don't have any use for the m18 line since the only compelling tools they have aren't as nice or aren't as affordable as others.

I like the 18v Milwaukee nailers. Those and the PEX A tools are the reasons I started with Milwaukee. Now I have drills drivers, impacts, multi tool etc.

 

[Sanderguy777]

No sorry 18v, I thought you were saying your 18v Ridgid drill and impact driver were really weak. I didn't know they offered a 12v so I was surprised you found them weak.

That is another reason I like Ryobi and Bauer, they have quite a few weird tools. I bought a Bauer cordless glue gun, basically on a whim during one of the many HF 20% off items under $30 sales. I love that thing. I've also got a little pressure washer made to run from a bucket of water. Handy for small jobs.

I've got some odd Ryobi tools like that as well, but I'm mostly into Ryobi for the yard tools.

I should have been more clear. I was talking about the m12 non-fuel tools I have. Ridgid did offer 12v tools at one time, but they went the way of the dodo and the Jobmax and Octane tools.


Yeah, my dad and friend both love Ryobi for yard tools. I don't do it often enough to be able to get away with the battery version instead of a commercial gas one

 

[Sanderguy777]

I like the 18v Milwaukee nailers. Those and the PEX A tools are the reasons I started with Milwaukee. Now I have drills drivers, impacts, multi tool etc.

Oh, for sure. If I started over or was planning on doing a big job, that would be perfect. I just don't have anything to draw me to spend that much on individual tools.