Ridgid tools good still?

[Sanderguy777]

I have some old Ridgid tools ( 10yrs old) that are getting slower. I know that happens, but I'm wondering if the company is still worth investing in or if I should go DeWalt.

I like the idea of the LSA, and my tools have it, but I have no experience with it, and if the tools are generally junk, then I don't want to have an everlasting trash heap to deal with when I like the feel of Bosch and DeWalt better.

Please give opinions on the quality of their newer tools and specifically recommendations for an impact driver or recip saw.

 

[d.mcfarland]

I wouldn't put any real trust in TTI to keep anything Ridgid around other than to create fake competition for Milwaukee. That's my conspiracy theory at least.

The Ridgid or the Dewalt will serve you just fine. For a wide variety of tasks. Some buy on price, others on availability such as specialty tools.

 

[vavet]

I like Ridgid. I like their LSA (lifetime service agreement, don’t call it a warranty).

if I was going to jump ship, I’d go Milwaukee. Their tools feel precise, powerful, and light compared to other brands.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I wouldn't put any real trust in TTI to keep anything Ridgid around other than to create fake competition for Milwaukee. That's my conspiracy theory at least.

The Ridgid or the Dewalt will serve you just fine. For a wide variety of tasks. Some buy on price, others on availability such as specialty tools.

I have both platforms so the issue would be whether the Ridgid is decent quality and the LSA is real.

DeWalt is obviously better, but the LSA is unbeatable if it really works

 

[mrvm]

Nothing negative to say about Ridgid power tools or LSA. Ridgid has a decent range of power tools for cutting, drilling and impacting. LSA replaced 9 dead nicads from several years ago with lithium which is an upgrade and I can use them to power other brands or Ridgid.

 

[Burt Shaver]

I have both platforms so the issue would be whether the Ridgid is decent quality and the LSA is real.

DeWalt is obviously better, but the LSA is unbeatable if it really works

I can say that the LSA is real, I’ve had 2 coil roofing nailers in, no issue. And they work better then any other brand I’ve tried, Off
the top of my head those would be mastercraft, Bostich, Dewalt

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I have some older Bosch cordless tools which have served me more than well. Take a look at Bosch is replacing.

 

[mbatarga]

I converted to Ridgid over 10 years ago and have about 20+ tools that run on their 18V platform - including yard blowers and woodworking tools. I hope they stay around for a while! I've only had 1 battery go bad which was replaced under warranty.

 

[Sanderguy777]

It sounds like they're worth keeping around, then. Thanks all!


Incidentally, anyone know what line of batteries would be good for a circ saw and recip? I have the basic kit, but only two 4ah batteries with like 6 2ah. Basically nothing worth even putting on either saw. The recip made 12 cuts through 4x4 PT posts (pretty dry, definitely not sopping wet) and went through a 2ah, and 1.5 4ah batteries!

 

[AEAdam]

I have a couple thoughts:

1) On drivers, PLEASE think long and hard about 12V.
Not sure 100% why, but I bought the 2 Milwaukee M12 drivers, the normal one and the Surge. The Surge isn't crazy quieter or crazy less vibration. Surge is supposed to be way less torque. But to be clear, torque and impact are kinda 2 different phenomena physics wise. Consequently, for 99% of what I do with my drivers, I have ZERO problems with the Surge. That said, its more expensive than the other one so maybe just get that. And to be clear - I'm not saying I think you have to choose Milwaukee. Only that I think, with brushless motors, new battery management circuits, 12V doesn't mean 2/3 the power of 18V. They have plenty of power in a smaller, lighter weight package. Maybe just shorter battery life.

2) On saws, ABSOLUTELY the blades make a huge difference. Especially circ saws. I like the thin kerf Diablo fine finish blades for just about everything. For recip saws, again I use Diablo because they are (pretty) cheap and readily accessible. I swap them less often than I should, but pretty often.

Just a thought: I have the Bosch CS180 18V 6-1/2" circ saw. This saw works with Bosch's older track system, before they switched to the Festool style track. But the CS180 is NOT a track saw, doesn't plunge, doesn't tilt on the track. I used the HECK out of that little saw for breaking down plywood. Before I bought another little portable circ saw, I'd poke around and see I could find one that runs on track. That Bosch track was never imported into the US. I bought it in the UK. You can (or could) buy it from Amazon.co.uk or .de But the option to put it on track has beeen very very nice.

I bought the Milwaukee 18V track saw and new track. That's really a bench top tool, not really a general carpentry tool. If I had it to do all over again, I would have chosen Makita. If a track saw is in your future, maybe head in that direction now.

One more thing about the tracksaw you didn't ask about. The Makita uses 2 "normal" 18V batteries. So its really a common battery set up. The Milwaukee uses a single 18V battery that's technically compatible with all your other M18 tools, but is really too big for normal hand tools, such that, in essence, its a stand alone battery platform. In a pinch, you could put a smaller battery on it, but you will barely finish a cut with a normal (drill driver sized) battery.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I have a couple thoughts:

1) On drivers, PLEASE think long and hard about 12V.
Not sure 100% why, but I bought the 2 Milwaukee M12 drivers, the normal one and the Surge. The Surge isn't crazy quieter or crazy less vibration. Surge is supposed to be way less torque. But to be clear, torque and impact are kinda 2 different phenomena physics wise. Consequently, for 99% of what I do with my drivers, I have ZERO problems with the Surge. That said, its more expensive than the other one so maybe just get that. And to be clear - I'm not saying I think you have to choose Milwaukee. Only that I think, with brushless motors, new battery management circuits, 12V doesn't mean 2/3 the power of 18V. They have plenty of power in a smaller, lighter weight package. Maybe just shorter battery life.

2) On saws, ABSOLUTELY the blades make a huge difference. Especially circ saws. I like the thin kerf Diablo fine finish blades for just about everything. For recip saws, again I use Diablo because they are (pretty) cheap and readily accessible. I swap them less often than I should, but pretty often.

Just a thought: I have the Bosch CS180 18V 6-1/2" circ saw. This saw works with Bosch's older track system, before they switched to the Festool style track. But the CS180 is NOT a track saw, doesn't plunge, doesn't tilt on the track. I used the HECK out of that little saw for breaking down plywood. Before I bought another little portable circ saw, I'd poke around and see I could find one that runs on track. That Bosch track was never imported into the US. I bought it in the UK. You can (or could) buy it from Amazon.co.uk or .de But the option to put it on track has beeen very very nice.

I bought the Milwaukee 18V track saw and new track. That's really a bench top tool, not really a general carpentry tool. If I had it to do all over again, I would have chosen Makita. If a track saw is in your future, maybe head in that direction now.

One more thing about the tracksaw you didn't ask about. The Makita uses 2 "normal" 18V batteries. So its really a common battery set up. The Milwaukee uses a single 18V battery that's technically compatible with all your other M18 tools, but is really too big for normal hand tools, such that, in essence, its a stand alone battery platform. In a pinch, you could put a smaller battery on it, but you will barely finish a cut with a normal (drill driver sized) battery.

Yeah, that is the next tool I plan on. And almost certainly the Makita or a cheaper festool (looking at the prices, ironically the ts55 is actually competitive, at least if I don't use festool accessories for the track ).

I do like the Milwaukee one, though. Why do you say it's not a construction tool? I would argue that track saws in general are a finish tool at least, definitely not something one would typically use in framing, unless sheathing is considered framing. I'm really just curious why it seems like you think the Makita is different.

Yes, blades make a HUGE difference. Years ago I finally bought a jigsaw on the advice of a bunch of people (possibly on here, actually) because I'd had so many issues with the older saws and cheapo blades. The new saw and blades were bosch and I'll never go back to cheapo blades. Diablo makes decent blades for them too, but I don't use them enough to say which is better.

The recip saw was using a brand new Diablo carbide-tooth nail in wood blade, so it had all the advantages. the tool and batteries are just old or the charger has a problem. Idk what, but I'm going to call in and ask about the LSA.

 

[neophyte]

Yeah, that is the next tool I plan on. And almost certainly the Makita or a cheaper festool (looking at the prices, ironically the ts55 is actually competitive, at least if I don't use festool accessories for the track ).

I do like the Milwaukee one, though. Why do you say it's not a construction tool? I would argue that track saws in general are a finish tool at least, definitely not something one would typically use in framing, unless sheathing is considered framing. I'm really just curious why it seems like you think the Makita is different.

Yes, blades make a HUGE difference. Years ago I finally bought a jigsaw on the advice of a bunch of people (possibly on here, actually) because I'd had so many issues with the older saws and cheapo blades. The new saw and blades were bosch and I'll never go back to cheapo blades. Diablo makes decent blades for them too, but I don't use them enough to say which is better.

The recip saw was using a brand new Diablo carbide-tooth nail in wood blade, so it had all the advantages. the tool and batteries are just old or the charger has a problem. Idk what, but I'm going to call in and ask about the LSA.

The spring loaded bases most track saws use for the plunging technique, are incompatible with standard cutting techniques used for circular saws.
This essentially makes a “track saw”, just a track saw.

There are certain “track saws” that can be used like a traditional circular saw, the system Mafell used on most of their saws for instance, and the system used for the Festool saws with the saw attachable tracks for miter cutting.
Most track saws however are based on the older spring loaded base design of the older Festool designs that became popular, and these spring loaded bases require pushing down on the saw to expose the blade, which can cause lack of control and safety issue when not used with tracks, unless the saw is used in a highly controlled manner, such as trimming floor edging next to a wall, where the wall/floor corner essentially acts as the track.

The “simpler” “track saws” are just circular saws with a track groove, and some manufacturers now offer this type of base on some circular saws, as did Festool 20-30 years ago, but this is still uncommon for many saw models.

Incidentally, hand held circular saws and grinders are probably more dangerous than table saws as far as potential severity of injuries go, since you cannot only lose fingers, or a hand, but you can also have a saw kickback into an artery or your chest, leading to death. (This is from OSHA accident reports).

 

[Aaron_W]

Personally I wouldn't buy into Ridgid cordless from scratch these days, not based on tool quality but simply cost and the fairly limited number of tools. The tools and batteries are not significantly cheaper than Milwaukee seems to run 10-15% cheaper in many cases. At the same time Ryobi (also TTI) often runs 15-20% cheaper than Ridgid and Ryobi has a huge range of tools. So Ridgid isn't going to save a huge amount over going with one of the major name brands. They have added 6ah and 8ah batteries which are almost essential for power hungry tools like a saw, but they are not cheap.

Already invested into the platform though changes the math. Some things to think about:
How deep are you into the platform (tools, but more importantly batteries, owned vs needed to continue)?
How many tools are you going to want that are not even offered in the brand?
How many more tools do you need to add?
Use, do you really need the top of the line and are willing to pay for it? Many of the budget brands are more than adequate for DIY and light commercial use.

To me if you are just looking to add a tool or two and you will be set, then I see no reason to switch. On the other hand if you are adding or need to replace multiple tools, maybe it is time to rip the band aid off and jump into something different.

Also important to remember, it is Ok to have 2 or more battery platforms. You don't have to throw out perfectly good tools just because you changed brands. I have 5 different battery types (Makita, Ryobi, Bauer, Hercules and Dremel), and the battery cops have not shown up at my house.

When it comes to corded tools I'm heavily biased towards Milwaukee, Bosch, Dewalt, and Makita, with some Ridgid, and Bauer rounding it out. With cordless I've gone heavily into Bauer, Hercules (Harbor Freight), and Ryobi with a little Makita thrown in. Simply these more budget friendly tool have been more than good enough for my cordless needs and saved me a lot of money.
In my opinion Bauer is the current budget king for cordless, offering decent tools, a good range of tool options and really good prices. They also have very good prices on the batteries which is where cordless tools really get you in the end.


I feel like Lowes and Home Depot are giving their in house brands the short end. Lowes seems to be edging out Kobalt for Craftsman. HD isn't as bad with Ridgid, but they don't seem to be supporting the cordless line as well as they could.

All that said, it is just a matter of time until I dive into Milwaukee's M12 line. Their M18 line doesn't offer anything to woo me over to them, but they seem to stand alone in the 12v arena with some really nice compact tools.