Above 1200 Sq/FT The Suburban Working Garage in VA...now building the Highland House in the Teton Valley

[gearhead1960]

Solved it

@Nolift911 that's located well within your driving distance...I bet the price is negotiable..... You just have to figure out how to get it out to the new place....

 

[Nolift911]

Solved it

Was functional when parked -

 

[gearhead1960]

Was functional when parked -

....and the check is in the mail....

 

[ErickForest]

ToolCat with a snowblower. You can add a blade, bucket, broom. Lots of options.

 

[swsman]

I would go used-well maintained tractor/snow blower implement, with the tire chains route.
Even better if you can score additional implements with it.

Will be very usable on your property, vs just a snow machine. Of course make sure it has a cab for that climate.

 

[gba2331]

Let’s hope it doesn’t turn out like this….’Heeeere’s Johnny!’

 

[jake28]

Re: snow clearing
1. Would you be plowing your own driveway?
And
2. What do you think the seasonal price for plowing the red road will be? It’s a straight shot and not very long.

I would expect snow removal to be one of the primary responsibilities of the HOA. My neighborhood has 65 lots and 58 homes, and 3 miles of roads that need to get plowed. It’s Tahoe, so feast or famine where we might not a dusting for two months and then get 4 feet of cement in a weekend.

Historically the HOA tried to pro-rate the plowing costs based on how far the house was from the entry gate. They led to vastly different costs for different home owners, and much grumbling.

Now the annual snow removal is split evenly by everyone with a lot, independent of location or whether or not the lot is built on. Simple, clean.

Most snow removal contracts are a fixed cost of (x) inches of snow accumulation in a given time period and then on demand at an agreed upon rate per clearing after that.

 

[legenddc]

I feel like homeowners insurance wouldn’t be too thrilled that the roads aren’t kept clear in case there’s an emergency. No idea what it’s like out there.

 

[badonk]

Re: snow removal - keeping certain roads clear is part of the HOA contract every land-owner signed? If that's the case, people with vacant land are lucky that there haven't been charges to clear the roads specified in the HOA contract...since that happens to be because nobody lives there in the winter and it'd be a waste of $$$. I'd demand the HOA start getting it done if you need it. If dues need to go up for all to cover that then so be it.

Since buying my land in Colorado years ago my HOA dues covered road clearing. Our HOA also covers driveway clearing but the additional HOA dues only kicked in once I had a COA. My builder charged me for clearing my driveway during the build...they charged for everything.

Next question is how you plan to keep your driveway clear. Maybe there's some middle ground. I have a friend in Canada that bought some equipment to clear his driveway, but plus sized it to take care of his neighbors. Later he got the HOA to cut him a break since he kept some of the roads clear too. It is his primary house so he can handle it after any snowfall.

It sounds like you'll be there from time to time but not full time, so even if you choose to do it yourself while you are there, how will you manage it while you are not there? Lots to manage with a mountain property.

 

[Nolift911]

Re: snow clearing
1. Would you be plowing your own driveway?
And
2. What do you think the seasonal price for plowing the red road will be? It’s a straight shot and not very long.

I would expect snow removal to be one of the primary responsibilities of the HOA. My neighborhood has 65 lots and 58 homes, and 3 miles of roads that need to get plowed. It’s Tahoe, so feast or famine where we might not a dusting for two months and then get 4 feet of cement in a weekend.

Historically the HOA tried to pro-rate the plowing costs based on how far the house was from the entry gate. They led to vastly different costs for different home owners, and much grumbling.

Now the annual snow removal is split evenly by everyone with a lot, independent of location or whether or not the lot is built on. Simple, clean.

Most snow removal contracts are a fixed cost of (x) inches of snow accumulation in a given time period and then on demand at an agreed upon rate per clearing after that.

@jake28 – All great questions. I think everything revolves around me being the first full-time resident in the neighborhood. I don't think the HOA documents ever contemplated a scenario where there would be just one family living there versus 1–5, 5–10, and so on to help share the costs.

It also seems to be feast or famine when it comes to snow around here. In the five-plus years since we bought the property, we've only had one winter where we couldn't get in while visiting. Our primary issue isn't necessarily the snowfall itself—it's the drifting. Some of the drifts can be massive, so if you don't stay ahead of the snow with regular plowing, you end up needing heavy equipment to clear it, which is a whole different level of effort and expense.

More to come on this. We were supposed to have our annual HOA meeting, and I'm pretty sure this will be the elephant in the room.

I feel like homeowners insurance wouldn’t be too thrilled that the roads aren’t kept clear in case there’s an emergency. No idea what it’s like out there.

Shhhhhh......

Re: snow removal - keeping certain roads clear is part of the HOA contract every land-owner signed? If that's the case, people with vacant land are lucky that there haven't been charges to clear the roads specified in the HOA contract...since that happens to be because nobody lives there in the winter and it'd be a waste of $$$. I'd demand the HOA start getting it done if you need it. If dues need to go up for all to cover that then so be it.

Since buying my land in Colorado years ago my HOA dues covered road clearing. Our HOA also covers driveway clearing but the additional HOA dues only kicked in once I had a COA. My builder charged me for clearing my driveway during the build...they charged for everything.

Next question is how you plan to keep your driveway clear. Maybe there's some middle ground. I have a friend in Canada that bought some equipment to clear his driveway, but plus sized it to take care of his neighbors. Later he got the HOA to cut him a break since he kept some of the roads clear too. It is his primary house so he can handle it after any snowfall.

It sounds like you'll be there from time to time but not full time, so even if you choose to do it yourself while you are there, how will you manage it while you are not there? Lots to manage with a mountain property.

I would describe our HOA as more of a summer lemonade stand operation at this point. My guess is that, as a full-time resident, I'll probably end up stepping into a leadership role somewhere down the road. Leadership seems to change frequently due to people moving away, losing interest, or, unfortunately, passing away.

In my opinion, the HOA fees also need to increase—substantially. If the goal is to properly maintain and support the development as more homes are built and occupied, the current fee structure just isn't going to be sufficient.

In other news, there is plenty of work to do on the Disco. It's usually been a good egg, but lately it seems like one thing breaks right after another.

The latest issue is a water leak from the roof. Right now it appears to be coming from the driver's-side front corner, but as I always tell anyone chasing leaks on these trucks, the headliner acts like a bowl. Depending on where the water enters, how the truck is parked, and how it moves, the obvious source often isn't the actual source.

The first suspects are usually the sunroofs, so that's where I'll start. I went through and resealed everything about five years ago, so I'm hoping it's something relatively simple like a clogged or disconnected sunroof drain rather than something more involved.

So the headliner - not complicated just fussy bits that break easy after 25 years. Most of these parts are a install and take a part once maybe twice type deal. This is easliy my 10th time dropping this thing.



No need to remove the top tray - that is sealed to the roof - no leaks - tested thoroughly with the hose. Glass lifts out.



But I did drop the bottom tray -



And had a "spare sunroof assembly" for parts...





Always fun to see where folks have had these taped up to prevent leaks..."that is not your problem, it does not leak there..."





They are designed to leak at the glass to rubber seal, heance the drain tray and drains throughout the cabin. You can actually see light from the glass to the rubber seal, by design.

Here are the buckets in the corners -



Anyway mine could use some new rail guides so as good of a time as any - I picked up some new OEM NOS rails a few years back as they have the bits that wear out...



Knackered -



New



Install is easy, 3 bolts and feed the guide, wire, screw worm deal into the channel...



Most important part of this equation...these little gibblers...



They go here...and slide in that groove.



When your sunroof is rattling, not opening correctly, jamming etc...that is becuase you have one of these little gibblers, sad and wadded up at the back of the channel shattered into two pieces, just like this guy. No bueno.




Anyway - and not even to fixing the leak yet...

 

[cccoltsicehockey]

When it rains, it pours. Hopefully that will be the end of the disco issues. Being HOA president might not be a bad gig while being the only one out there.

 

[Nolift911]

When it rains, it pours. Hopefully that will be the end of the disco issues. Being HOA president might not be a bad gig while being the only one out there.

When it rains it pours...Literally -




Ok so on to the leak - not the sunroofs. It is coming from the corner upper header of the driver side. Issue is there are so many overlapping pieces, pinch welds, sealant etc, tough to to know where exactly.

Basically here...and yes those are cut sunroof drains, so I could blow them out, will reattach. Not the problem.



Here is where the water is coming from...over time seam sealer cracks, pinch and spot welds loosen etc. I could slather that with 3M urethane but I want to find the source.



Remove a-pillar trim...





No smoking gun - just windshield goop and not leaking down here anyway.



So I have been driving around like this for a few weeks, testing etc. With the upper drip rail trim off and the A-pillar trim off I figure if it does not leak with those off I am good.

Going to be certain before that headliner goes back in...



Used a brass 3/8 barb for the drain reconnect...not leaking.

 

[cccoltsicehockey]

Love the sprinkler on the roof test

 

[pima67]

Probably a good idea to get more involved in the HOA. One thing to check out is if the HOA is funding a reserve fund to cover any future repairs/replacements for HOA owned roads, utilities etc. For example, Without a reserve fund the HOA might have to do a special assessment to repair road damage caused by plowing or some other delivery/construction workers.

 

[Nolift911]

Probably a good idea to get more involved in the HOA. One thing to check out is if the HOA is funding a reserve fund to cover any future repairs/replacements for HOA owned roads, utilities etc. For example, Without a reserve fund the HOA might have to do a special assessment to repair road damage caused by plowing or some other delivery/construction workers.

Agreed. No reserves, I have seen the balance statement. Reserves are a good idea. I really think dues are too low at this point to sustain the development moving forward.

 

[Nolift911]

August - what the....?

Well - couple of updates. Lots of projects going on, Disco, Volvo, mountain bike, plumbing, OneWheel - and the house updates.

Disco is leak free. Tested. Passed. Headliner back in and buttoned up. Next up is replacing a cracked rear bumper, and the wheel arch flares, oil change and then a really good detail. Its headed for Idaho right behind the Defender this fall.

Volvo - no updates. Fail.

Mountain bike - I have turned this into one of my typical "while you are in there saga's". Brake calipers were seized and in looking for parts for Avid Juicy 5's - cheaper to replace. Might as well go from a 160 rotor in the front to a 180...new wheel skewers, tires...yadi yadi.

My boy Atlas (ChatGTP) has been instrumental in matching up parts and caliper brackets, back spacing, nuts bolts brake bleeder parts etc. for the 21 year old Trek.

I like the researching part and finding the hard parts. Deore XT parts for my old bike are cheap and there is plenty of NOS out there.

So Atlas "tell me about the work we did on my Trek"

I got you bro...summary of work thus far -

You've actually got a pretty cool bike.
Your mountain bike

2005 Trek Fuel EX 8

Here's the setup we've been working on:

• Frame: Trek Fuel EX 8 (aluminum)
• Travel: ~120 mm front / ~120 mm rear
• Fork: Fox Float
• Rear Shock: Fox Float RP1 (recently serviced)
• Wheel size: 26"
• Drivetrain: Shimano XT 3×9
• Crank: You just upgraded to a NOS Shimano XT FC-M760 crankset with the matching Shimano bottom bracket.
• Brakes: Upgraded from Avid Juicy 5 to Shimano Deore M6100 hydraulics.
• Rotors:
  • Front: upgraded to 180 mm
  • Rear: 160 mm
• Tires: You settled on a 2.30" rear after the 2.50" rubbed the frame.
• Tubeless: Stan's setup.

We also spent a fair amount of time sorting out:

• the correct 180 mm front brake adapter,
• the rotor/pad alignment,
• and making sure you weren't leaving braking surface "on the table."

He is giving me **** about the rear rotor and pad coverage - it was like 3mm off. So I told him I was going to mill down the caliper bracket - and he went bananas...danger danger.

Whatever my little AI friend - hold my beer...



Pad overage is not cool...









Little belt sander action -













So yeah its not a 29er...its a glorified gravel bike but its really coming along for a 21 year old relic...and there are tons of trails in Idaho to bomb on for distance that is not downhill or technical - that is coming soon.

 

[quadrcr87]

I am glad to see you are enjoying bringing the bike back to life. I am sure the Idaho riding will be amazing!

 

[Horror Business]

I own a lot of mountain bikes, none of them are 29ers.

 

[Xti04]

I own a lot of mountain bikes, none of them are 29ers.

My current bike is 27.5 and I love it. I had a 29er for a bit and never cared for it. Sold it pretty quickly and never looked back.

 

[customh]

I'm not sure what head type these "button heads" are that mounts the caliper bracket to the bike but they look like prime candidates to get upgraded to Stainless. Maybe even a Torx head if you're feeling froggy.

We've got plenty of trail options in MN as well and I've got a buddy that got into the hobby pretty hard. Perhaps it's a rabbit hole that needs exploring.

 

[jake28]

Kudos on the brake upgrade. juicy 5s were renowned for being finicky pains when they were new, let alone 5 presidential terms later.

And I love that amidst the tool bedlam you have two pairs of scissors out.

 

[Nolift911]

I am glad to see you are enjoying bringing the bike back to life. I am sure the Idaho riding will be amazing!

Indeed - looking forward to having endless trails and options right from my door...

I own a lot of mountain bikes, none of them are 29ers.

Interesting - have heard mixed reviews on the 29ers...

My current bike is 27.5 and I love it. I had a 29er for a bit and never cared for it. Sold it pretty quickly and never looked back.

Again - interesting - have heard mixed reviews on the 29ers...

I'm not sure what head type these "button heads" are that mounts the caliper bracket to the bike but they look like prime candidates to get upgraded to Stainless. Maybe even a Torx head if you're feeling froggy.

We've got plenty of trail options in MN as well and I've got a buddy that got into the hobby pretty hard. Perhaps it's a rabbit hole that needs exploring.

Yeah some of these fasteners are tired - I am trying to replace with fresh ones as I come across them - I do prefer the black oxide over SS though.

Kudos on the brake upgrade. juicy 5s were renowned for being finicky pains when they were new, let alone 5 presidential terms later.

And I love that amidst the tool bedlam you have two pairs of scissors out.

Yes they are ancient - I think the scissors are for opening packages. Interesting part is when I cook in the kitchen its not like this - I clean up and keep things neat - not sure why the garage is different.

In other news, the Disco continues to not behave. I let the kid drive it a few days to work and he calls and says the A/C is not working (on a 100 degree day)

I figured user error but sure enough the fan blower quit. That is a 5 year disposable part on the Disco - so I had two spare ones. The issue is the original Bosch is NLA so aftermarket garbage is the name of the game and they generally last 5 years at $100 a pop. Issue is I just replaced this one this winter. They get noisy after awhile.

Neither of these worked when I plugged them in - both brand new.



Fuse is good. Damn. More digging...the primary suspect is the fan blower resistor after 350k miles it seems like the weak link.
Blower lives behind the glove box...not a hude deal.



Resistor lives back there also. It is in the path of the blower and uses the air to keep it cool...usually they overheat. I see no evidence of this. I asked Atlas if I could test it and he said maybe....? Maybe... cmon bro yes or no. Anyway I took it apart to look for overheating.





Not much in there really...according to my little friend no real "easy" way to test it. It does not looked burned out though...but there really is no other culprit. So I sank $380 into a new OEM one and we shall see.

Everything seems to be going sideways - Jacuzzi tub upstairs decided to leak - needed to replace cartridges. Left a small spot on my freshly painted family room ceiling, that I was able to touch up successfully instead of repainting the whole ceiling. Win.

Things are getting past 20 years for the house - stuff breaks.









Fan in the master bath decided to **** the bed also - I think I found the last NOS one in the country at some supply house in California. Its a fan and light with a night light combo deal, all one piece.





Time for a clean also -



In other news in Idaho - fires are raging - these are the Big Holes behind me...glad I spent extra for HVAC in the garage.

 

[cccoltsicehockey]

No fun when you can no longer get OEM parts. Dang, fires raging out there too? Accident, general dryness, or arson?

 

[Nolift911]

Couple of updates — man, I feel like I can’t get out past the breakers on projects these days.

The Disco is continually misbehaving, house projects are never-ending, and I took the Rangie in for an inspection and found a bad ball joint and maybe a coolant leak. I usually take it to the dealer for my annual sticker, but I made the mistake of not changing the wiper blades beforehand — never even checked them. Well, they were split and needed replacement, and that’s a fail item in VA.

Two wiper blades for $180 — lol. Lesson learned. They could have failed it, and I could have bought and replaced them myself, but then I would’ve had to take it back. Oh well.

The lower ball joint rubber boot was split, but apparently that does not fail inspection. At $2,500 per side, I’ll need to figure that one out down the road...

On top of that, the Disco sprang an oil leak — one I haven’t seen before — so I had to track that down while still figuring out the blower motor debacle.

Hint: it was not the $380 blower resistor — per usual.

Blower debacle — two known-good motors and one brand-new blower resistor = no blower fan.

I actually had Atlas help me troubleshoot this one, as it was 100 degrees out and I was getting grumpy. He did a good job. While I’m testing resistance, checking grounds on the leads, etc., the fan magically starts running.

At that point, I suspected a bad ground or a short to ground somewhere. Keep in mind, this is a 40-amp circuit...

The issue with AI is that it wants to start from a solid baseline, and apparently “I checked all that ****” just doesn’t check out with Atlas. So, back through the procedure we go... (I am trying to teach him to handle this journal on his own - I just throw pictures at him and he enters the journal for me, since he is involved with a lot of this anyway he knows whats what - working on that and I think we are close.)

Off we go... back to fuses.





Along with a massive relay under the hood all checks out...but this is the voltage getting to the motor...



While I am jamming probes here and there the fan blower comes to life - scares me.



I send this to Atlas and he says "that is janky - bro"



Burn mark -





Cut and splice - works - all good. Replace blower motor and no fan start - again.

Then I start wiggling and grabbing all the wires under the dash - on comes the blower motor...this guy looks sketch and with some wiggling the blower motor goes on and off. Another suspect.



I send this to Atlas and he says "sorry I blew $380 on the resistor - my bad, there is your problem"



Yes - toast.



So more cut, more splice etc..



Fan is back in - running swell, all better.

Next issue: Oil leak...and a big one. Never had a car leak oil like this...the trail of tears reached all the way back to the transfer case so literally the middle of the truck is leaking, but there is no oil back there. Time to dig in. Filter is wet, could be a bad seal? - too easy.






So more investigation finding the highspot or what is wet and how high is it...bad pic but there is a pressure sensor switch on the timing cover above the oil cooler and housing - its puking oil. Had to order a new switch and seal. Not a good spot for a switch - no idea what a pain that will be to replace and does not look fun.



This is why I drink.



More to come -

 

[badonk]

The lower ball joint rubber boot was split, but apparently that does not fail inspection. At $2,500 per side, I’ll need to figure that one out down the road...

If the ball joint is still good, an option is to find a replacement boot and just install that. I had to do this on my audi urq because sourcing a new ball joint was a PITA.

Burn mark -

Cut and splice - works - all good. Replace blower motor and no fan start - again.

Then I start wiggling and grabbing all the wires under the dash - on comes the blower motor...this guy looks sketch and with some wiggling the blower motor goes on and off. Another suspect.

So more cut, more splice etc..

One thing I did recently was bought a Deutsch connector kit to use when I run across janky stuff with trak auto crimp on spade connectors or really old factory connectors that are crumbling and failing. The Deutsch stuff looks like OEM quality waterproof connectors, possibly better than what they supplied on the disco back in the day.

 

[Krfjkm]

Couple of updates — man, I feel like I can’t get out past the breakers on projects these days.

The Disco is continually misbehaving, house projects are never-ending, and I took the Rangie in for an inspection and found a bad ball joint and maybe a coolant leak. I usually take it to the dealer for my annual sticker, but I made the mistake of not changing the wiper blades beforehand — never even checked them. Well, they were split and needed replacement, and that’s a fail item in VA.

Two wiper blades for $180 — lol. Lesson learned. They could have failed it, and I could have bought and replaced them myself, but then I would’ve had to take it back. Oh well.

The lower ball joint rubber boot was split, but apparently that does not fail inspection. At $2,500 per side, I’ll need to figure that one out down the road...

On top of that, the Disco sprang an oil leak — one I haven’t seen before — so I had to track that down while still figuring out the blower motor debacle.

Hint: it was not the $380 blower resistor — per usual.

Blower debacle — two known-good motors and one brand-new blower resistor = no blower fan.

I actually had Atlas help me troubleshoot this one, as it was 100 degrees out and I was getting grumpy. He did a good job. While I’m testing resistance, checking grounds on the leads, etc., the fan magically starts running.

At that point, I suspected a bad ground or a short to ground somewhere. Keep in mind, this is a 40-amp circuit...

The issue with AI is that it wants to start from a solid baseline, and apparently “I checked all that ****” just doesn’t check out with Atlas. So, back through the procedure we go... (I am trying to teach him to handle this journal on his own - I just throw pictures at him and he enters the journal for me, since he is involved with a lot of this anyway he knows whats what - working on that and I think we are close.)

Off we go... back to fuses.





Along with a massive relay under the hood all checks out...but this is the voltage getting to the motor...



While I am jamming probes here and there the fan blower comes to life - scares me.



I send this to Atlas and he says "that is janky - bro"



Burn mark -





Cut and splice - works - all good. Replace blower motor and no fan start - again.

Then I start wiggling and grabbing all the wires under the dash - on comes the blower motor...this guy looks sketch and with some wiggling the blower motor goes on and off. Another suspect.



I send this to Atlas and he says "sorry I blew $380 on the resistor - my bad, there is your problem"



Yes - toast.



So more cut, more splice etc..



Fan is back in - running swell, all better.

Next issue: Oil leak...and a big one. Never had a car leak oil like this...the trail of tears reached all the way back to the transfer case so literally the middle of the truck is leaking, but there is no oil back there. Time to dig in. Filter is wet, could be a bad seal? - too easy.






So more investigation finding the highspot or what is wet and how high is it...bad pic but there is a pressure sensor switch on the timing cover above the oil cooler and housing - its puking oil. Had to order a new switch and seal. Not a good spot for a switch - no idea what a pain that will be to replace and does not look fun.



This is why I drink.



More to come -

Had a group of buddies at Buffalo Trace last weekend! Great spot to visit!

 

[Nolift911]

No fun when you can no longer get OEM parts. Dang, fires raging out there too? Accident, general dryness, or arson?

Yes - getting harder and harder - even for the LR4 now...

If the ball joint is still good, an option is to find a replacement boot and just install that. I had to do this on my audi urq because sourcing a new ball joint was a PITA.


One thing I did recently was bought a Deutsch connector kit to use when I run across janky stuff with trak auto crimp on spade connectors or really old factory connectors that are crumbling and failing. The Deutsch stuff looks like OEM quality waterproof connectors, possibly better than what they supplied on the disco back in the day.

Did some research on this - I think I have a solution and it is just to replace the control arms from LR - about $300 a pop, ball joint pressed in from factory, OEM hardware. So $2500 for one side goes to about $800 for both sides with new arms. I keep reading you need an alignment after this but can't figure out why - just unbolting and bolting on new parts...also need a JLR "special tool" - about $150 for an exact fit spreader, popping the lower joint is the ***** - apparently.

Lots of YT vids out there on this - seems a common problem.

I never found a kit for just the boot - also not sure how long the boot has been ripped and how much gunk has gotten in there so I think the joint should be replaced.

Part	Qty.	Price
LR148060 — driver/left arm	1	$309.42
LR148059 — passenger/right arm	1	$309.42
LR097372 — inner bolt	2	$22.78
LR188116 — inner flag nut	2	$7.00
LR034221 — outer ball-joint nut	2	$37.16
Parts subtotal		$685.78

I need to look into the Deutsch Connector kit stuff...not that cheap but looks worthy.

Had a group of buddies at Buffalo Trace last weekend! Great spot to visit!

Thats a great haul - when I was there it was a two bottle limit. That just meant an hours worth of time sending in my better half and myself to different checkout lines 15 minutes apart to get a few cases. Bourbon is dropping like a rock in price. The liver better cowboy up.

In other news got that bathroom fan sorted with a NOS unit from that supply house. Motor was toast but it is mounted from the top. No way I was headed into the attic so spent a few hours re-engineering the box so I could do from below.



So I really just need the motor out of this dumb thing - everything else needs to stay.







Some rivets, little metal bending and out it comes - it was a 100 degrees out no idea what the attic was like. Plus my access is at the other end of the house so that is quite the journey on invisible rafter beams covered in 2 feet of insulation.



Little cleaning - good to go...for another 20+ years.



Hit the range with a few buddies...





Rookie mistake...slide bite. Could have used 3-4 stitches...went the super glue route...



Somewhat related - good read.



M3 is progressing - believe it or not...9 months in. Could have made a baby...





The shop where the work is being done is trolling me on IG...

 

[Cdubu52]

Jeff, what is the story with the M3? Is this the one that got hit with your son driving out in CO?

 

[cccoltsicehockey]

What a project that fan turned into. Maybe I missed the details on it in a prior post, but is this Atlas AI you are using to help solve this something more car specific than standard AI resources? I have started to use Gemini Pro on my phone for things, but if there is a car specific one I am intrigued to try that out.

The pressure switch looks like a bear to replace. Glad you found a source for some cheaper ball joints. I can still get parts for the NSX but the entire one side needs redone from previous owner neglect that I was running on borrowed time on. Looking at about 1500 in parts per side + shipping and tarifs from Japan, and I really just want to do the entire rear at once. At least it will be solid for life when done.

Glad to see the M3 is underway.