36x40 Attached Garage / Mudroom Build - Layout Suggestions

[z28tt]

I've got the opportunity to build my dream garage - a 36 x 40, so my wife can have a mudroom, of course! We're planning on building it to have a bonus room / bath / bedroom above it, and high ceilings in at least one bay for a 2 post lift.

While it's still in design, changes are way easier. What do I need to have? It'll be a combo garage / woodworking and metal shop. I'm struggling to figure out how to have a clean layout, but still have everything usable (current 2 garage is a disaster, just not enough room, and as I get more tools & materials,

Our designer broke up my 40x40 box into sections so it'd match the house (we're on a 1/2 acre lot in the 'burbs, so no room for a massive out building, and it needs to match for future resale), but that added a bunch of corners.

I'm in Zone 5 (New England), I was considering radiant floor heating with an air:water heat pump. Giving it some more thought, mini splits would give me air conditioning in the summer, as well as winter heat for similar cost. Our existing Cape (built in the 60's) is all-electric, and I plan on adding solar down the road. I'll insulate it like a house since the garage/bonus room/bedroom will be more or less heated.

3 bays, with 9' x 8' doors. I could put a half-wall in front of the daily driver cars to separate the workshop area.

For the 2 post lift, using the left bay with a cathedral ceiling gets me 13'6" over the middle. How much room should I have between the lift column and the wall for comfortable work? I've got 31" below and but could move it over for 36", but it'll pinch into the middle bay when a car is parked. I'm sure we can engineer the support column for the beam to be elsewhere, or go with a larger truss to eliminate it.

I was thinking of having a wash bay inside, but I'm an aspirational waxer. I barely find time to detail the cars now, so it's probably pointless. Not sure if I should try to add a slop sink somewhere (to strip off dirty mtb gear) - bath would be next to the stairs on the 2nd floor, and I could stub out plumbing supply and drains in case the next owner wants to turn this glorious garage into something silly, like a first floor master bedroom and bath. I could probably put in a drain (to daylight), if that's something that really would be good for the future.

The metalworking area is in left back corner (bridgeport, lathe, TIG, chop saw), and woodworking is on the right side. Not sure what the work area should be. I love the F1/NASCAR style race shops, but they don't have anything outside, and everything is in a cabinet. Seems like that's more of an assembly area than a work shop.

Thoughts on this layout (made it in sketchup)? I could go wider / deeper if it's needed, but need to draw the line somewhere. All ears, since this is probably the only chance I'll get.

 

[Smilodon]

I'm trying to understand the difference between the two elevations you pictured. One appears to be a rear view of a different orientation. What is the reasoning behind orientating the new garage differently. Do you have that option?

Also, you should definitely put a sink in the garage/shop if you can. I use mine all the time and it helps me keep cleaner when working, which causes less mess on whatever the project is I'm doing.

 

[shade]

I recently moved from AZ to MI where it snows
My smaller shop was already built and had no drain.
When I built my new shop (still in process with a thread. I have pictures of what i did) a drain was mandatory. The water and snow just stood which irritated me to no end. Do it.

What are your maximum dimensions you are willing to go? Whatever they are, do it.
There's no such thing as too much space.
Is each bay going to be walled off or open. The design made me think walls in-between.

Outlets everywhere. Im dumb and like accent lighting around the perimeter of the ceiling. I put a couple outlets up high for that, then another set for a TV and peripherals

Mini's - perfect idea. Best insulation you can go. Your design looks cool

 

[z28tt]

I'm trying to understand the difference between the two elevations you pictured. One appears to be a rear view of a different orientation. What is the reasoning behind orientating the new garage differently. Do you have that option?

Also, you should definitely put a sink in the garage/shop if you can. I use mine all the time and it helps me keep cleaner when working, which causes less mess on whatever the project is I'm doing.

Sorry, should have been one sketchup screenshot. It's been a living drawing. Orientation is the same as the existing (2 car) garage, which would be dismantled. Renderings are from the designer, which I matched in sketchup to play with layout options.

Thanks on the sink suggestion. It wouldn't take up much room.

 

[z28tt]

shade - I'm comfortable doing the electrical, and plan on 20a receptacles everywhere. Add some 240v/20a for the woodworking and lathe/bridgeport, 30a for the wife's PHEV, and a 50a for the welder. I might run some conduit before pouring the floor, so I can have the table saw in the middle without wires dropping from the ceiling.

Not sure on max dimensions, it'll depend what the quotes come in like. The existing house is only 1700 sq feet - I don't want this to TOTALLY dwarf it. If I go deeper and keep the same roof pitch as the existing house, the peak will be even higher. I probably could extend the left bay another 4' so the rear wall is common.

The bays will be open to the sides, but I'm thinking of having a half wall (and glass windows above?), separating the right two bays from the work area. It'll help contain the dust from woodworking too.

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[carlaisle]

Regarding the partial wall: dust floats. A cyclone dust collection system will collect a lot of dust, but never all of it.

You'll get a lot of use out of the shop sink.

I would drop wires from above before plugging anything into an outlet in the floor. It will fill up with everything that lands on the floor, which may include water.

An in ground lift would solve a lot of layout headaches.

A radiant slab makes a lot of sense in Saskatchewan; much less so in your climate.

If I was writing the check, the building would need to be sized such that I could open every car door all the way (not simultaneously) without hitting anything.

Keep in mind an 8' tall garage door generally only opens to around 7'. Might be worthwhile to measure a modern F150, Tundra, etc. Even if you have no trucks, consider resale.

Check local codes on garage floor drains before putting much more thought into a wash bay. In some places its easier to permit a nuclear reactor.

 

[72Anthony]

I would plan for some type of heating cooling from the start (I'm from Houston so I don't know what's best for your area.

Definitely add a sink, since you are into car work, metal and wood working.

I would hold off on building the half wall until you get a chance to pull the cars in and see how it feels in real life.

 

[jack stand]

36x40 is humongous coming from your current 2 car regular  parking garage .
It's not the answer you probably want (in terms of interior layout) but I'd have it built with no interior posts or bearing walls.
You're list of desires spaces doesn't match your proposed 36x40.
After 3 builds for myself and being in the business of building, it's really very difficult to visualize a room and it's dimensions and how all of this comes together as a whole plan.
Ideally once you're under roof, start laying things out marking the walls with whatever you want. Strings, garden hose, 2x4's etc. to depict the walls. With no structural restrictions you have a much better chance of designing something that you're comfortable with.

Good luck and I can't recommend a thoughtful insulation package (beyond FG batts) and a radiant slab enough.
Bringing in a frozen 3500# vehicle (or 2) to a air heated space to thaw overnight will force a traditional warm air system to run most of the night until you open the doors in the morning to get the vehicle out and the few hours running it'll take to recover from that!

 

[JuncleJohn]

I’m guessing you must only drive small to mid size vehicles.

Three 9 foot wide doors will be a deterrent for future resale as most households wanting that much garage space will probably have at least one full size truck or SUV. Think about side mirrors, nothing more annoying than having to pull them in to enter and move them out to drive. I strongly suggest different overhead door sizes. One at least 18x8 or 20x8 and the other 10x8.

Also, the parking area doesn’t look deep enough. Get a full size vehicle in there and it’ll almost be right up against your half wall.

Placing the Bridgeport in the corner as shown will severely limit your X axis travel.

John

 

[Stuart in MN]

What about storage of stuff like the lawnmower, snow blower, rakes and shovels and garden tools? A separate shed would be best, but even with one some of that stuff is going to sneak into the garage.