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Question on converting/adaptor a 240v plug for 110v for 4 post lift

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aziroc

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From the website:

1789396761769.png

From the manual.......
1789396320901.png1789396339247.png

4mm*2 is just slightly larger than 12 AWG, #10 would fix that difference.

Based on the schematic, it doesn't appear to be shipped with a cord.
Every video I looked up and other forums I searched, they all had the same cord/plug.
 
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aziroc

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Even a lot of commercial lift motors are only 5 minute run time with no issue, that shouldn't be something to worry about.

Sounds like you have a solution with that 20A outlet you have. You could always see if an electrician could add another outlet off that circuit closer to the lift if you get tired of using an extension cord all the time.

If I used the 4 post as much as my 2 post, this whole issue wouldn't have even been a topic as I would have just added a dedicated line and called it good. But because I will literally have this thing in the air for the next few months while I get the wifes 99 ws6 ready for its ls3/trans swap, I was just trying to find the easiest way (cheapest) to get the car up in the air without breaking the bank.
 
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theoldwizard1

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We've discussed before manufacturers putting 5-15P on machines rated at 20A. Welders and air compressors come to mind.
55 years ago I worked at Sears selling paint and compressors. Many 1 hp compressors came back because they would trip a 15A breaker/fuse !
 

theoldwizard1

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We've discussed before manufacturers putting 5-15P on machines rated at 20A. Welders and air compressors come to mind.
Yup... I can easily blow a 15 amp breaker with my cheap Chinese mig welder when it's cranked up and I'm running beads. 20 amp holds just fine .
I think a big part of the issue is the length of the wire (and therefor the voltage drop) from the breaker panel, through the receptacle and plug to the motor windings.

Most houses built between the 1950s and 1990s are wired for 15A. (I'll bet it is still true today except for where code requires a 20A receptacle !) The Chinese would not be able to sell anything with a 5-20P on it !

When I wired my son's garage with 12 gauge NM-B, I made certain that it was connected to a 20A breaker in the panel and that there was a 5-20R on the end !
 

The Cobbler

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I can easily blow a 15 amp breaker with my cheap Chinese mig welder when it's cranked up and I'm running beads. 20 amp holds just fine .

I think a big part of the issue is the length of the wire (and therefor the voltage drop) from the breaker panel, through the receptacle and plug to the motor windings.
in my case the plug where I weld is a foot from the panel . it's fine on lower settings but when i'm welding thicker stuff like 12 gauge & running beads, i need a 20 amp circuit. oh, and the cable I normally use for the welder is 12g, about 15 ft
 

wyliesdiesels

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I meant specifically a 140A machine rated to pull 20A but with a 15A plug. Or are you saying that is done intentionally for the same reasons you can put a 50 amp receptacle on the end of wire rated for less?

no im referring to welders having duty cycles and limited run times. you can put 20a welders on 50a circuits with #10 wire. they are a special animal like i said... and you cant compare them to motors
 

whateg01

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no im referring to welders having duty cycles and limited run times. you can put 20a welders on 50a circuits with #10 wire. they are a special animal like i said... and you cant compare them to motors
I was referring specifically to the 15A plugs on machines drawing 20A, since that's what OP said the mfr told him they see with their lifts all the time.
 
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