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You carry an 11mm wrench around?

I just did a wheel bearing where the hub was held in with E14 bolts. With the condition of the bolts I was worried something would let loose, but I was able to get them out in one piece. I was wondering about this exact situation as I was not feeling confident they'd survive.

I already have a full set of crowsfeet (Snap-On) but a lot of times there isn’t even room for them on an injection pump which is where the sockets really shine.

Thanks, I think the consensus goes with what I was thinking. If I'm resorting to using a flare nut wrench/socket the last thing I want is for it to slip. While Ko-Ken has some remarkably well designed stuff that I genuinely enjoy it does not strike me as quite as strong as Snap-On. I'll defer to...

I am looking to expand my collection of flare nut sockets. I use them primarly for breaking loose, or torqueing, diesel injector lines. RIght now I've got a couple in the common sizes; all from Snap-On. At roughly $70 a piece they're not exactly inexpensive for something that isn't used an awful...

1894 is a beast. Gotta be careful online, a lot of folks give out bad info not realizing their air system is to blame. Measure pressure AT the tool. Watch for restrictive regulators, lines and fittings. Don’t run more hose length than you need.

If I'm being honest, my Sunex sockets are as good as ANY impact sockets I've ever owned. The thickness of those Denali's is reminiscent of the days when all the cheap sockets looked like that and the only way to get a decent wall thickness was off a tool truck.

Unless it’s got solid lifters there won’t be any lash to check.

Appreciate the info. I was wondering how restrictive the stock regulator was, and the addition of a ball valve isn't a bad idea. I have actually considered manifolding the outlet for one regulated feed and one unregulated feed. For what I'm doing I leave the regulator full open 99% of the time.

Could not get them to come down on price, but they did throw in a bottle of oil which I considered a good consolation prize.

Well, I ended up grabbing the HF 29 gallon. Seems to do the job and the footprint is perfect for where it sits. At the price I paid I won’t complain if I need to upgrade down the road. Thanks all!

This is too accurate 😂😂😂 appreciate the humor.

You don’t use them if you have another option; you use them when nothing else works. Great for power steering lines at the rack, undoing shifters from the bottom of the car and getting up behind stuff inaccessible by a ratchet or wrench. They are not something you need on every car or every project.

Proto and Snap-On have both proven to be very strong. Surprisingly the Neiko brand on Amazon that they practically give away has also been very impressive.

Appreciate all the input. I think I’ll lean more towards CFM than sound since I am trying to stick to a budget. Anyone have a 60 gallon they like that isn’t north of a $1000? The budget is flexible if the performance is there to justify it.

Thanks, the sound difference alone would be pretty incredible based on some of the quiet ones (and loud ones) I’ve been around. The budget isn’t too fixed but I had to throw a number at it so the recommendations didn’t get out of hand. I will dig into that CAT a little more and see why I think.

While most of my power tools these days are cordless I still find myself needing a compressor for my air hammer, blow gun and occasional impact use. I want something that can run a large impact without cutting it off at the knees, but don’t need headroom for a spray gun. Footprint is important...

Capri has impressed me.

I went Snap-On for flare nut Crowsfeet; I was able to get them off eBay brand new for a lot less than on the truck. For regular open-ended I grabbed some Icon's and have been happy with them.

In my area the HF Daytona has completely taken over. I see them at a friends manufacturing employer, at the local oil change places, at the dealerships and at most of the private shops.