Search results

probably not something I would do on a vehicle. This is mainly farm equipment and things like that where using the proper tool is sometimes out of the question. I want to experiment with a plasma cutter doing this, just was wondering if any of you guys had before

And I want to add in here how about possibly using the gouging process for this?

Seen guys cutting bearings off of shafts with a torch and was wondering what the basic technique is for this and why it doesn't screw up the shaft? also can this be done with a plasma cutter?

Went with the cheapest one. If I get the dewalt maintenance kit the warranty goes up to 4 years. I couldn't justify buying the 7.5 hp for my usage (low to moderate) In comparison to the middle priced one, if the motor ever does go on the one I bought, I can buy another for the price difference...

quick bump to the top. Gotta decide today.

I've been digging but have yet to confirm if they are the same pump. my thoughts are going with the cheaper compressor, and if/when the motor goes upgrading that to a better baldor (or equivalent) motor. But I need to know if the compressors are the same.... Can anyone confirm this?

So you are saying the cheaper one has the best pump?

I'm assuming the amp draw is incorrect as well because the cheaper one is 22 amps (at 5hp) while the other ones both say 40. So which one is the better buy? Are these just re-branded and if so, what models are they based off of?

last one is also the cheapest, why is that?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-80-Gal-7-5-HP-175-psi-2-Stage-Stationary-Electric-Air-Compressor-DXCMV7518075/206796334 http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-80-Gal-5-HP-175-psi-2-Stage-Stationary-Electric-Air-Compressor-DXCMV5018055/206796312...

Home depot has a decent sale going on the 80 gallon 2 stage air compressors. I was wondering what the main differences are between the 3 big ones they have on sale. they are all 80 gallon, 2 stage oiled compressors. Seems the difference might be just in the pumps themselves. Maybe the motors...

Proper way is 2X4's with joist hangers every 4' between your trusses. Metal attached with screws directly to the 2X4's. If your post are 6" the max you can subtract from a 36' building would be around 15". (6" for each post and 1 1/2" for the purlins front and back) so you could get 17' 6"...

Yeah if its 35' wide and you are running purlins you would be better off getting 18' pieces of metal. Also you can ask for ceiling liner/seconds as the price is a lot cheaper and the only problem is the stuff is usually slightly thinner or has a slight paint defect.

It's definitely a liability thing.

I had to go back and look to make sure I was correct. lol

$0.60 for insulation, not installation. :) He didn't specify if this is the installed price or not in that post.

Was that installed price? Because metal panels should be around $2.15-$2.30 per linear ft, not square ft. (material only) and you can get seconds which would be fine for ceiling liner for around $1.50-1.75lf which is around .50/sqft

I would disagree, the post should be more than adequate to support the additional load of a loft.

Have the same lift also set up wide. lift a 4 door long bed f350 diesel and just plain and simple just can't quite reach the recommended points. Extend the arms as far as possible and then get the truck balanced as good as you can and call it good. Mine is close to reaching, just not quite...

I have the bendpak and like it. Beware, the LP arms are shorter (in extension length) than the regular arms. If that matters to you. Bendpak is unclear on this on their website