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Here's some plans that were in Workbench Magaizine in Dec. 2007 for what I think is the same exact shelfing you have. http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/wb304-garage01.html Plans: http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/pdf/wb304-garageshelves.pdf

I pulled it outside so the sun is reflecting off of it really bad. Plus the pictures are from a camera phone. There wasn't much work involved in total I have around 30 minutes maybe less in it. That doesn't include the time inbetween coats as I was doing other things. I think it looks good...

Here's the finished pictures: Close-up of how I did the locks:

Burgerkong I like the red handles but my box is only a Craftsmen so that a little to flashy.

Stand probly took me about 10 minutes but man did it make painting them so much easier. I put the emblems and locks on tonight and am really excited about how they look.

So I started taking the drawer pulls off of the tool box and made my setup to hold the pulls while I paint them. I decided to go with flat black as I already had a couple of cans of it on hand. I saw a Matco box with flat black pulls and loved it so that made my mind up. Got a little out of...

Ok... They should be fixed

Kurn the wooden dowel and hammer did the trick thanks a lot. Now that I know they come off quick and easy I will be painting them. I am going to check in with a powder coater to see how much that route would cost first. I'm thinking either a Candy Red or Stealth Black What do you guys...

I was thinking of either painting them a flat black or candy red to get a anodized look. It's not worth the time or effort to me to mask all the drawers off. I'll have to try to give them a good wack with a hammer. I also am not worried about them being worn and beat up, i'm just a hobby tool...

I want to paint the silver drawer pulls on my craftsman toolbox. Anyone know of an easy way to get them off?

Looks like it is signed by Tony and Cruz Pedregon

As a Penguins fan I now know how the rest of the league feels about Crosby

Who in their right mind would spend that kind of money on a manual hood when they could get a Miller Elite for the same price if not less.

Been around for a long time and is in a lot of high school woodshops. I have heard alot of mixed reviews but it does work. You have to be real careful with what you are cutting and know if it will trip the blade stop. Look around I remeber seeing a video with a guy sticking his finger into...

I've done some searchs online and can't find any mention of a Lincoln mill anywhere, I also found very little information on the DRO. I guess i'll skip this and maybe e-mail the guy after the auction and see if the deal falls through if I can come out and take a very good look at it.

Yea it ***** I just stumbled upon it an hour ago and have no time to go check it out. From what I can tell it looks like it is in better condition than most mills i've looked at around here, but I have never heard of the Lincoln model name. Looks like a beefier bridgeport.

I've been looking for a mill mainly a Bridgeport but stumbled upon this non-Bridgeport mill. Whats everyone opinion on it? I will be using it in my home garage as a hobby. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120520575508&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I have the same problem with my impact sockets. The walls of the sockets are to thick for the holders. So when you start to full the tray up there is not enough room for all the sockets. Nothing you can really do but remove a couple and replace with thin walled impact sockets.

I asked this some time back and the conclusion was getting one custom made. I'll be paying close attention to this thread and hopefully find something.

Can anyone give me an idea of what that exact Bridgeport in that kind of used shape with and without the DRo would be worth?