Search results

They've been handing those out at the stores too. Any suggestions from people on what to use it on? About every higher dollar item I can think of is listed in the exclusions - tool boxes, tool carts, welders, etc...

This. I see a lot of rotten sill plates - even pressure treated - when they're just off the ground. And I can hose down my workshop floor without worrying about the drywall/framed wall getting wet.

They'll support quite a bit. Only problem I'd say is how deep they are - you'll need quite some floor space in front of them to open them all the way.

Shouldn't be a problem. I used 8" block but then there is a "shelf" where the framed wall meets the block wall.

I picked up a bunch of file cabinets and mounted them along the back wall of my woodshop for storage.

Looking at the commercially available systems, the thing that is missing from this system is an activated carbon filter. You could probably find something that fits and use one of them as well and be set. [edit]Went back and saw that it was mentioned that the third filter was going to get...

Similar discussion started just the other week: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179860

Thanks for sharing and most certainly thank you for your service!

:beer:

Definitely talk to a structural engineer before you write it off. Ask him what it would cost in his hourly rate to come out, take a look at things, and advise you on what he thinks it would take. If it looks doable, then hire him for the project.

First step before adding fill is to make sure you have adequate bearing on the underlying soil. If you're compacting the fill over top of that to the point that you can notice a difference, I'd be concerned about the state of the underlying soil.

Hate to say it, but if that is the case you did it wrong. No way should you have softer soil under the compacted soil. It will eventually settle.

Well, you could turn it into a hobby like this guy did... But it is actually a bit more common to lift a house and dig out a basement than it is to move a house. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6FnqCBvn5Z4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Best situation is to have a pad that is higher than the surrounding ground to shed water. If that cannot be done, put a french drain in around the sides that are higher and drain it to daylight. If you want to risk future settlement, yes. But as wdrumheller says, you really want to get a...

Typically you'd level and compact an area for the pole barn, then put in the holes for the poles. I've seen situations where they've used longer poles on the downhill side, put in some sort of retaining wall, and then fill inside the pole barn once it is built. But it is a heck of a lot easier...

The previous owner of my place seemed to think so... :lol_hitti No offense, but I really wouldn't take such advice from a building inspector unless he could show me his PE license. I've had building inspectors that understood what they were doing and then others... Well, let's just say not...

I feel your pain. Built my workshop back in the late '90s before the internet really came into its own and people were posting pictures of all this sort of stuff. I knew lifts from commercial shops, but figured they were totally out of reach for a home shop... Should have been simple enough...

Family Handyman from Tanga I've gotten a couple subscriptions through Tanga for other magazines. Never a problem. $4.75 a year for up to 4 years - use coupon code PROJECTTIME

Sorry, I didn't look closely enough to see that you used individual boards - saw the HardiBoard comment and assumed that you were using the sheet goods. I think the part about "when done correctly, with the right craftsman" is the key, though. Not enough of either with today's contractors...

Like "The Shrine" shows. True board and batten siding - with individual boards - has entirely too many potential leaks. Do a full sheet of cement fiber siding and apply the battens over it if you want the look.