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Yeah, that makes sense to me, but I am being told elsewhere, that both factors have to be applied (cumulative derate). Is there any code guidance on the specific situation? I also asked the other guy for a code reference.

My kitchen counters did not have GFCI protection. The outlets are on a shared neutral circuit, but all the outlets are on the same hot (red). There is another hot (black) that runs through the boxes in the back. The only way I have found to get GFCI receptacles to work is to wire one for each...

Assume a derating factor is necessary for bundling. And assume that a derating factor is needed for attic heat. Would they both have to be applied even if the bundling is in the basement? It is more a of theoretical question than an actual example.

I am aware that there is the need to derate the ampacity of wire for ambient temperature (say an attic in the midwest, 120*F-130*F?) and also derating for other situations, such as bundled wire. If a wire is bundled in an attic, I understand that both bundling and ambient temp derating factors...

Also, I just looked at the wires I have in my walls - They are 12 awg marked type TW, which I believe is a 60* rated wire. I don't have the temperature derate table but I ran it through an app that says it derates to 41% at 123*F!!!! That means the 12 awg doesn't even support a 15 amp breaker...

Well, my inspector didn't seem too concerned, but I kind of pushed him and he did go into the crawl space to investigate - old guy, a little heavy, sweating and puffing to far side of crawl space. He said there was an old clamp where the water service entered, but it wasn't connected to...

Yeah, splices were needed - partly because the box was a lot bigger - I went with 40 slots while the old one had I think 20, with a lot tandem breakers. Now that you mention it - it may have been appropriate to use the unmarked wire - so that it was clear that the rest of the runs were not THHN...

Well, I have to say, I hired a "reputable" local company to install a new load center -main breaker last week. The company was recommended by a friend that owns a commercial electrical company. While they knew how to do things I would have had trouble with, they screwed up somethings that I...

I just replaced my panel. Absolutely nothing had to be brought to current code. No GFCI, No AFCI, no fixing over stuffed conduit. It may depend on location, but, it would be counter productive to require full code compliance when an upgrade is made to part of a system. It would discourage...

This would not be new construction. I can't imagine they would want to send someone out more than once for a simple addition of a couple outlets through EMT. The adding a circuit maybe. I just got a new load center installed and thinking of all I can do with the empty breaker slots.........

Those are some pretty steep lights. I would think the same could be achieved for 1/3 the cost, but sounds like costs don't matter to this guy.

Well the inspector came today. He passed the installation. I asked him about grounding to the water and he seemed not to care. I did at least get him to investigate a bit and he did go in the crawl space to look at the set up. He said he found a clamp on the water but didn't know...

What is the general process in your area/experience when getting an electric permit/inspection for a fairly small job - say grabbing power for a garage outlet, running emt and and adding 2 to 4 additional outlets. Does the inspector generally just come and look over a job like this when you are...

I would bet $200 to $350 in parts/materials (depending on panel) and $200 in labor if you are doing everything but the main. Figure something for permit and inspection. So - anywhere from $400 to $700 and more if you want GFCI or AFCIs. More if there are complications....

I think this shows the bonding/connection?

Saw a few things that were "surprising" to me. Example, the wires for splicing - they used NM and pulled out the individual wires. Seems inefficient timewise, I would have thought more expensive and I also thought that you needed to used marked wire, but NM doesn't have markings on the...

Great customer service. Glad to hear it, good luck with the restore.

Here are a few... A few notes as well- - They said it would take about 4-5 hours. It was 11 before they left. -They had to move the meter to the left as the new box was too tall to put the meter above (dis-advantage of the bigger box). -The conduit rising on the left of the box carried a...

Well, it has been installed.

:thumbup: