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Yea it looks like a typical 2x12 header detail. The only concern I would have is what load is bearing down on it from above and how its supported at both ends. If there are 2 2x4's at each end you'll be ok. I'm not saying you can't do it, but take the extra couple hours and ask the right people...

Put a fir or equivalent 4x4 at each end of the opening. I wouldnt trust a single 2x4 to hold that load. Also you don't state what is above it. a 2x12 header is strong but not if there a roof point load bearing down on it with the partition wall removed.

If he didn't stagger the seams, that's your problem. Expect the rest of your seams to do close to the same. The crack found the weakest spot and now it will find the rest. If you don't stagger the seams you're not tying the entire wall together, only that 4-8ft section of wall.

He said mid efficiency, not high. Is it a 80% unit? If so it's fairly normal to draw air from the space the unit is in as long as there's a way to get make up air into the room.

Third one looks like a leather punch. The other two look like something to thread string/leather through the pc you just punched.

:bitchslap No you didnt.

will oven cleaner hurt the rubber or electrical components?

South shore. About 20 mins south of boston.

Could you PM or post up the name of the concrete guys you used? I'm in MA but could use a referall. I'm doing a 40x32 so it's a good example.

How did you prep the site for using a pad slab instead of doing a foundation? Theres no worry about the slab moving a lot or cracking due to frost heaves?

99% chance of it being heat reflecting off an external source. Windows, patio door, metal roof, metal sign etc. I've seen it plenty of times. Stand in front of the reflection that a new low-e rated window gives off in the afternoon sun. Winter or summer, its very hot. Vinyl will absolutely melt...

Guess I should have came here first. Just found what I believe to be the same box. Where can I look for a year mark? http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35714

Hi I recently bought a property that has this box stored away in the garage with a bunch of stickers and parts from the 60's-70's. I've searched google but cant find a starting point to figure out what model it is or if it's worth restoring.On the underside of the lid it has a swing out "door"...

I'm in the same situation. What are the details for the floor to be able to have a clear span room underneath?

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1392 Click on residential floor and roof. I typically use the red rafter lock screws that are available at most lumber yards. If not drill and carriage bolt them together. Glue is next to useless as they're coated in a wax type coating.

I have the 1/4" impact. It will drive 5/8" Lags through multiple LVL's all day long. I have no doubt it will do 110 ft/lbs. Its rated for more than that.

They were not mass producing/mass importing them 50 yrs ago. This thread isnt going as planned.....:lol_hitti

Why do you need to take the drywall depth into consideration? Most of the ones I use attach the flange to the strapping and then the drywall installs over the flange. The finish trim covers roughly 2" around the opening so there is nothing to see. There are also the fans where the metal box gets...

or instead leave it alone as its not violating code and goto the attic and insulate the tops of the bays to stop the draft from coming in. Removing the countertops, removing enough drywall to drill holes and run wiring, and then re wiring everything on the circuit is more than a quick fix. When...

Housewrap the barn with a Tyvek or the like and use the Tyvek tape around the windows to seal the housewrap to the windows. You'll need to do this step when siding anyway....