Search results

I purchased my seal kit from Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247 their in Sawyer Ks. Their good folks to work with. I bought a kit, but the tank seal was not correct. I sent them my tank seal and they matched it up and sent me the correct one. It is pretty easy to reseal the jack I would take...

I use it to **** the oil out of my generator. Saves on clean up

For $60 I would buy the Mac even if it needs rebuilt.

I was lucky enough to find a piece of 1" that I made a 3'x3' and a 30"x60" tables. Drilled a 6"x6" x1/2" grid. I used 1/2" x 4" angle to make the legs. I learned moving 40lbs per foot material is not an easy task.

Ram ready for the poly U cup. It is nice to have a buddy with a lathe.

I would buy another one.

I see the ledge on the ram now that I zoomed in. Thanks for your help.

I would like to go with a poly Ucup. The picture is the base of the ram where it will be installed. It had a snap ring to hold it in place. Do you think it needs modified? The plastic heel and cap seals look good but the orings seem hard and want to replace. You mentioned a sealant but don't...

I used a 3/4" drive 2" socket wasn't any trouble.

In the process of rebuilding my floor jack of 14 years. I'm only going to replace the inner ram seal. Disassembled it tonight and found no contamination, but the ram seal is hard and is a 2 peice type. Going to call Hiball's contact and order the parts.

I have pulled many hours on the SK round heads. My only issue is you have spin it to tell what direction it is on. Most cases not a big deal, but there are times when a visual is good.

Yes, I have use their service and the items I was having replaced. They didn't have me send the broken items back. I use the Mac service as well. No fuss.

The compressor ran 40 years without any of these upgrades. First I installed a cross between the pressure switch and the original block. Replaced the supply line with a piece of stainless steel braided line. A gauge in other port and a mini ball valve in the original block. This way I can see...

Re: Kellogg American Pressure Switch Malfunctioning "Repaired" Two trips to the hydraulic shop and two to the industrial pump supply and the compressor is running like new. The hydraulic shop sells Parker fittings and always everything in stock. Bought the pieces to plumb a new gauge, blow...

Decide to bench test the switch. I found when it is set to cut in at 100psi it would work a couple times then it would drop to 80 before calling for air. Then I increased the cut in to 140 psi and it seems to work properly. Normally I work with 120psi regulated. So a cut in at 140 seems too...

I'm figuring out how much the pressure switch is a pain. I've searched prices and they range from $100-300. It is a single port 145-175 psi. I think I'm going to lube the hinge points. Maybe it is binding. Jg

I always check the tank gauge before throwing the disconnect so I know if the compressor is going to start. It was just below 100psi so it was going to start. Well it didn't. It ran down to 80 before it fired. Shut down was normal. Ran fine for several cycles. Then it ran down to 80 before...

Well I didn't wait. I removed the hex cap, removed the spring and ball. Sprayed cleaner till rusty residue came out clear. Depressed pin and sprayed cleaner till rusty residue came out clear.Put it back together. I got a cut project to work on tomorrow that should test it out. Thanks again guys! Jg

Thanks for the advice. I will put the healing to it the morning. jg

b boby bob, This is scary, I understand what you're saying.