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Just found some statistics on workshop tool injuries. This is kind of old but I don't think much has changed. Report is from 2003 based upon ER visits in 2000-2002. http://www.cpsc.gov//PageFiles/118290/hazard_tools.pdf Table saw did have a lot of ER trips but not a single person was killed...

Not sure if use have used a radial arm saw much but they are pretty dangerous. If you're not paying attention and don't have a good grip on the handle, the blade will climb wood towards you real fast. If you're hand is in the path, see you later. A sliding miter saw could do something kind of...

Since he has a furring strip over the top of it and not drywall pressed directly against the faced batt to smash the joints together, taping it was an excellent idea. The faced batt would be pretty useless otherwise. I think I would have just used unfaced batt and added a plastic vapor barrier...

All machinery is dangerous. If you're using a riving knife, featherboard, proper guards and push sticks, you are pretty safe with a table saw. Most people get hurt by removing safety devices (I'm guilty) and making hasty cuts or cuts that leave little margin for a slip of the hand. You just...

Have to agree with this one. Excellent saw for the money. I have a Ridgid TS3660 and it has been flawless. More of a portable (wheels around on concrete) cabinet style saw. Belt driven. Mine has cast iron wings but I think they are stamped steel now. You do not want a direct drive or gear...

You'll just have to measure the actual garage depth, with the garage door closed when you're that close. I don't think driving up ramps is going to gain you more than a 1/2". I don't think it would be safe to drive onto the ramps every single day. They're made for sporadic use.

Porter Cable used to be a real quality tool (routers, sanders, etc.) prior to them being bought out by Black and Decker. Now it's mostly chinese/mexican junk. Hard to find anything that isn't chinese though these days. I'd buy a Paslode, Hitachi or Senco. I've used Bostitch framing nailer...

It is possible to get away without OSB or plywood sheathing on the walls if the use diagonal strapping, let-in bracing or corner shear sheathing reinforcement. He could have just forgot to mention that there is OSB sheathing and there is foam insulation installed on top of that. The roof would...

Also just noticed that you are in Oklahoma so you're in a pretty mild area. 2" of closed cell foam on your wall would probably be enough. If you fill your 7" cavity with foam/cellulose, that's a lot of insulation for a wall (especially a garage) in Oklahoma. If you were farther North, I'd...

Just an installation method. They spray it in wet to get it to pack/stick in the cavity then they let it dry before drywall or wall covering. Some do it dry with netting stapled to the wall but may not work well in a cavity already half filled with foam. Here's a video that shows what I'm...

I think if you wanted to do this method, I'd buy one of the semi-professional spray foam kits that has a couple tanks of foam components. I'm sure you'd burn through a lot of small cans of spray foam which would add up real quick.

Many people will put in a couple inches of closed cell then fill the rest of the cavity with wet sprayed cellulose. Cheaper and nearly as effective as filling the whole cavity with foam. If you have electrical or plumbing in a cavity and ever need to tear your wall apart down the road, having...

Not sure I see the point in trying to save that top. For one, sanding or planing it flat isn't going to change the fact that it's still bowed on the bottom side so it's not properly supported evenly. Two, it's soaked with oil and grease and will be terrible sanding or planing. Three, it just...

Your downspouts should never feed into your foundation drainage system!! If you don't want them to dump on the surface, they should be tied together in their own drain tile system, definitely not into your sump pump pit. That is why your sump pit is filling faster than the pump can get rid of it.

I would either do this (your wood doesn't need to be 1.5 since your drywall thickness should be considered) or put up white crown moulding. Crown would probably cost less since it would take a lot of furring to do your entire ceiling. You won't lose 1 inch of ceiling height with crown either...

If you're looking for lcd/plasma TV mounts, Monoprice is a great place. I've purchased around 10 mounts from them and they've all worked pretty well. Much, much cheaper than best buy or wal-mart or whatever. Here are some ceiling mounts...

Nice color match with the Ridgid miter saw and the Stihl chain saw. Looks like it was meant to be. Is the old electric trigger now the throttle? That would be pretty cool...

Are you saying it is going to cost you $64k to have some closed cell foam sprayed in?? I'd move. You'll never see that money back in the sale of your condo. That said, R-70 would be overkill. You'd probably notice a huge difference with R-20 on it. I think the worst part is where do you...

Not sure where you are located but removing 12" of soil near the foundation wall (where your garage door is at specifically), you may run into frost heave on your existing foundation since your footing depth effectively was reduced by 12" near where you excavated additional topsoil.

So you're definitely living by the old adage "if it's yellow, let it mellow. If it's brown flush it down." Or are you letting the brown mellow as well? :beer: