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This may or may not help but, I had a couple Gearwrench reversible combos that would lock up and not ratchet or they’d reverse on their own, shot a few squirts of Kroil into the gap of the ratchet head, let it soak for a day and oiled them with some gun oil, worked them for a few minutes and...

Only orange SO I have aside from some gloves: Everything else is green or red.

Delete please.

I didn’t buy it my BIL gave it to me as a Christmas present. Looked at it and was like wtf do I need this for?! I’ve got a Wilton vise I just bought! Boy was my assumption wrong. I use this for pretty much everything. Doing the finishing work on (bike)fenders, wheels, frames, bars, forks...

So is it complete? Functional? You going to use it? Sell it? Definitely jealous and you’ve earned the official GJ ‘you ****’. Same goes for the English wheel you posted as well.

Sorry I guess I worded that too vaguely. The tubings only 13 gauge but when I rolled it it compressed around 3/16” so in effect it was about 3/4” tall after I rolled it and still wasn’t at the radius I needed. I’m planning on tying the 2 sides together with stringers about every 18” so it wasn’t...

I do have a jd2 bender(no dies for 2x1 tubing made) and a horror fright tube roller with the swag extensions and 2” dies for square/rectangle tubing. It was actually the first thing I tried, unfortunately it didn’t get anywhere near the radius I needed and had compressed the tubing ~3/16” and...

Ducks unlimited screwdrivers: I immediately turned back over after a pic 🥴

Just bumping this since I figured out a relatively easy fix for my dilemma. Ended up leaving the top/sides and cutting the sliced part out(bending it back to fit the frame), bending some sheet to the radius and just welding that in. Was able to fit it nice and tig it.

Add another thumbs up for the AHP tig

I left the set screws out about 3/16” so I can spin it out with my fingers. Yours would be way more functional but it’s what I had on hand. At some point I’m going to try and make it a ball detent for the hell of it.

They do hit the rear of the latch about 3/16” unless you lift the handle but I always do anyhow. My fist box was a craftsman grip latch that I used 5-6 days a week for ~20 years and those are still going strong so I’d assume this one will last as well.

I appreciate the responses. Going to grab a few of the Ernst organizers.

Had some downtime waiting for the painter to get parts back so made a couple quickies. Crowfoot holder(3/8 square bar tapped for 10/32 set screw and other end peened over to hold everything): Tucking fork since I don’t have a *********** kick Shrinker/stretcher: Need to knock the rest of the...

That’s what I need to do as well. Thanks for the reply and pic 🫡

Thinking about grabbing a few sets of the Ernst wrench pro magnetic organizers. I know it’s been some time since you wrote this, are you still liking them? Everything still held solid? Anyone else care to chime in? Thanks

Summit had the black, red, blue on sale about a year ago. NAPA occasionally had them on sale around that price as well. They kind of vary though. @LanceMc what size/color top box are you looking for? There’s been a few red/grey griplatch 40” combos on CL around Sacramento areas. I’ve been...

I can’t say since I’ve only seen the rs pro. I know the lower tier boxes are made with thinner steel according to their site. The one I have is a step up from my ~2003 craftsman grip latch but definitely not as nice as a Snap On, Mac, Matco, or Cornwell. It’s definitely built better than the...

Another one in the bay: Back on topic if it were me $800-900. It’s only 20” deep.

OP, since you seem to want griplatch drawers you may want to check out the Homak rs pro boxes. They’re also 24” deep 16/18 gauge boxes and if you search a bit you can find some good deals. NAPA should probably have them if you want to get hands on to see if you like it.