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I just paid $0.60/lb at R.S. Phillips Steel for drops of up to 36" of all kinds of shapes. Got a mix of some different thickness sheets and some hot and cold rolled bar as well. Gonna go back for some 1/4" wall x 4" square tube once I figure out a base for my grinder stand. Sent from my Pixel...

Thanks Joe. I plan on using half rods when I get to the point where I'm ready to try. Thanks for the idea, but I think I'll need some additional length to reach and see what I'm doing. It'll be like working in the wheel well of a car, only a little tighter 'cause it's the wheel well of my atv...

Wow! This addresses another issue I'd been having. THANK YOU Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

"starts slow" definitely answers a few questions. May even help with the pinholes in getting at the start of my beads when I use the Hobart rods. I'll try 75 and see how it goes now that I've got better control. The reason the beads are so wide on my practice stuff above, is because I was...

I'm aware. The reason for practicing at the bottom of the rod's rating is so I can get good enough with tight arc control to weld gussets onto the relatively thin wall of an ATV frame without blowing holes in it. This was the reason for Dr_Clyde's example above...

Sberry, thanks for all of the input and your examples. I'm going to show the practice I've been doing first and then explain:This is about 20 inches of hot rolled 1 1/4" angle that was cleaned off with a wire knot brush in an angle grinder prior to practicing and again right before taking...

Thanks, this is exactly what I'm going for. Though since I've noticed (learned) how different the rods can behave from brand to brand, I found a welding supply house near me and went and splurged on 10lbs of Lincoln Excalibur 3/32" 7018. I'll probably never use them all, but to my knowledge...

Sberry, this is something I understand well. It's especially true of a tapped transformer based welder like my Lincoln AC/DC tombstone like mine. Unlike modern inverter type welders, these welders are also susceptible to line fluctuations. Since I'm trying to use the rods at the bottom limit of...

The Bohlers were given to me to try. I'm not looking to blame the rods either. But the practicing I did with them today, unlike the Hobart rods, I got zero pinholes. As I tried to demonstrate with the side by side, I can easily make the Hobart rods give me a porous weld. Not so easily with the...

Made in China but meets all of our standards... Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Dr_clyde, Wow! After seeing your test, my lack of experience and training became really obvious. Most importantly, what I want to do with what I've got available is doable. Thank you for taking the time! I thought really carefully about my results and all the variables involved in getting to...

Xman_charl, thanks! I've seen most of Jodie's smaw videos, but nothing dealing with stick welding thin metal. Also read a lot of material (some a little over my head). But there's no substitute for doing. So I've been going back and forth between working on what I've gotten out of the videos...

Hello All, been out of town visiting family and finally got back to my "edjumacation" [emoji851]. OK to close the loop on what I've learned so far and the advice I've received here... (Remember, all of the following is using 3/32" rods at 75 amps); 1) Heating the 7018's had no impact. 2) long...

Love the black/gold! Very nice [emoji482] Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

This thing is awesome! My only problem is that the only perspective on size is that 5 gal NAPA bucket in the background. Any chance you could take a picture with a person or something next to it? Magnificently done! Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

The sleeves are new and closed each time I remove a rod. But I do have a large toaster oven that I've used for powder coating. I could give this a try easily enough. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Hey Doc! Thanks for the reply. Good to know. Thx Ok, I'll practice this for a while. Due to the thin material and small pieces, I've been afraid to hold still. Been starting the arc and move. Yeah, I'm using 3/32 7018 at 75 amps. The thin material that I'm welding melts through really fast at...

So I got good at laying a clean bead in a tight spot on material similar to (thinner) than the frame I need to fix with the 7014 rods. Boy, they were easy to strike the arc with. Then, thanks to @dr_clyde , I went back to practicing with the 7018 rods and I can lay down a clean looking bead...

I've welded a few frames myself on much less costly 4-whlrs. Didn't come out too pretty - poked a few holes and did a lot of filing and grinding. Clean-up afterwards isn't in the cards this time due to the sensitive and somewhat complicated location. So it's got to be clean the first time...

This is reassuring to hear. I tweeked the mounting tabs for the front left a-arm on my Kawi 750 Brute Force. Maybe even a hairline crack on the factory weld, but since cleaning the finish off don't see a crack. Thought gussets would be a good idea to be on the safe side. Sent from my Pixel XL...