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Fantastic product! Good to hear.

Several good options here from vendors in the group : https://www.garageflooringllc.com/product/pro-series-full-broadcast-epoxy-system-awf-pro/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA34S7BhAtEiwACZzv4TMwYUPDHoT3LNOfYtI3n5MPBaPSPgqW8D8I1kTmYxULs7VltgRt2BoCs9EQAvD_BwE...

That can happen with acrylics but that is proper recommendation/ way to fix. I’ve used their two part military grade clear and it’s an amazing product.

That's way too cheap for a quality floor. If its solid color they need to use pigmented urethane on top. Clear urethanes will allow UV to pass through and change color. This looks like a quote from someone who is desperate to make a quick $. I'd get at least 2-3 more quotes. Macropoxy can be...

I would suggest 2 part clear urethane with a long working time. If you are not experienced with installs a short work time can be very difficult to use.

One of the vendors here has a product like POR. Check out https://www.garageflooringllc.com/product/trualloy-kits/

Morning, brother in law lives in Spanish Fort area. He used Mcaleer Epoxy for his floor : https://mcaleerepoxy.com/ Floor turned out great and he's been happy with it 5 years later.

What polyaspartic was used on the floor? That should not happen.

Prep is most important part, as mentioned above. If you want to DIY route, there’s several companies on this forum that supply kits. Best system for flakes is epoxy base coat, flake to rejection, then Polyaspartic or 2 coats of urethane. $6-8 per square foot is common for install. You can do it...

I’d sand the entire floor and apply another coat of urethane. Check instructions for coverage and apply on thicker side of recommended spread rate.

Yes, you will want to use the Moisture Barrier Epoxy in place of polyaspartic as the first coat. Check with them to see if you can flake into it to be sure. For topcoat, you may consider using there 2 part military grade clear. It's a lot easier to use (work time wise) then most polyaspartics. I...

Epoxy Base / Polyaspartic Topcoat. Only reason an installer uses polyaspartic as base coat is to get the job done quicker and collect a check.

Do you have a product name? Rust Oleum has several different epoxies. It should be fine as epoxies go on steel and concrete all the itme.

Shea is spot on. The only reason polyurea is used as a basecoat is so they can finish the floor quicker and get paid. It's a sad thing happening in the industry right now. Epoxy Base / Poly Topcoat is the best move. Installers will lie about it because they know most aren't educated on the...

Check out Tru Alloy Coating. Inpensive compared to Epoxy systems. I would stay any Behr flooring material. They do not last! https://www.garageflooringllc.com/product/trualloy-kits/

I have never used it but i have heard from several installers in the industry that there's been some issues with the product.

I'd recommend a system with epoxy (generally a primer + intermediate coat, followed by a finish coat of 2 part urethane which is extremely durable. Something like this : https://armorpoxy.com/armorultra/

Run as far away possible from any professional installer who doesn't prep a floor. Any product that is "no prep" is absolute lie. Be careful if they offer any newly launched technologies. Make sure they use products that have been around a long time (10+ year minimum).

https://www.garageflooringllc.com/product/trualloy-kits/

There’s a couple suppliers in IA that I’ve heard good things about on Facebook forums. https://www.515dcs.com/ https://strandsindustrialcoatings.com/