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One brand folks might want to consider is Gree -- they claim to be the worlds largest air conditioner manufacturer and make 1/3 of all the (home?) air conditioning units in the world. I believe they make units branded for other companies too. One spec document that I was looking at last night...

One trick I saw on youtube when watching an install on bare framed walls is that you can put a piece of drywall in behind the inside unit while installing it so you don't have to worry about trying to finish around it later.

You actually don't even need to be an inside track member to use those coupons. You can view the coupons at http://www.hfqpdb.com and they accept them without asking for any proof of membership. The above site is an AWESOME resource for finding a coupon, if available, for what you are...

Here's the bad beam right before I swapped it at the yard. New beam looks 1000 times better. The worst part is actually closest to the camera.

Yeah I feel confident my pricing was their normal pricing for walk in customers without accounts. Pretty sure it would be less in volume and/or for account holders. This place supplies a lot of the oil industry around here. Called this morning and they said will swap no problem

Not from a scrapyard -- this is from a big texas steel and pipe supply. I went and slapped a digital angle finder on it and best I can tell, it is about 8 degrees of twist, all in about 5 feet to one end of the 20 footer. This is going to be exposed and will be holding up the front floor edge...

Hey guys -- I just bough a 20ft W8x10 beam and I'm not experienced in buying this size metal. When I got it home, I noticed that it has a pretty good twist in one end. Enough that you don't have to look hard to see it. I don't know if it was naive of me to expect that steel would be a lot...

Thanks to everyone for all the great feedback in this thread. I'm getting close to the point in building construction to where I may move forward on this. My current thinking is to support 2x4's from the bottom of the w8x10 beam by clamping them from underneath using a long piece of thick flat...

Quick note on making your own cables -- found out that what you would need is a swaging tool and tonight at Home Depot I saw they had some that look like bolt cutters for about $20... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lehigh-Swaging-Tool-ST18S/100243794 Strangely, Amazon doesn't carry anything in...

Figured maybe I should post a pic of my overall door install. Sorry for the glare from my Airstream outside! This shows the 9x7 door fully open. You can see the excess track at the top/back that I still need to trim. Also, I've not yet installed any bumper springs or stop on the tracks...

So here are some prices.... LIFTMASTER 8500 ("jackshaft") OPENER - Street price seems to be around $314 http://amzn.to/1GJ2vKN (note that the liftmaster opener seems like it should be one of the easier components here to install! Much easier than a regular garage door opener.) DRUMS --...

:shocking: for those prices, it sounds like they are going to have their lawyers come out and supervise! Do you guys already have torsion spring setups or at least "proprietary" (WD torquemaster, clopay ez-set, etc), wound spring type doors with 1" shafts and end/center brackets with bearings...

LOL well here's a pic! This shows how I routed my tracks a bit too close for comfort to the 400-54 drum! What you are looking at is the top of the door coming really really close to the drum, with the door open a couple feet. This is even AFTER I made some changes during the install to give...

Here is a pretty good diagram for doing high lift + following your roofline. If you just want to go horizontal, it's pretty much the same thing.

Hi folks -- here's some of the stuff I learned while installing a garage door and converting it to high lift + "follow the roof pitch" on the cheap. As I describe below, the process isn’t really all that hard and 90% of the work is in re-routing your door tracks. I would NOT recommend going...

Much appreciated! That's really all it is here though I sense some in this thread are convinced I want to hotwire the planet. Plus, I didn't even know what the code was or safety implications until putting the question out there to the board. And that's why I asked!

BTW, you California guys really love to be subject to code, eh? LOL That's why I'm a former Californian! Born and raised, living on the sunset strip until I finally had enough of the state government a couple years back. I love the freedom we have out here in the sticks! Kidding aside, I...

I'm not worried about what they would think -- I just have a good idea on what battles I want to pick with the personalities there! This isn't one of them, especially since I agree with the rule limiting the shared power to one 120v meter per lot. Just one reason is because lots are bought...

Yes, the meters are coming off the same can. It wouldn't be a problem to ensure they are on different legs, with or without using a dual pole breaker. The association would indeed allow me to obtain my own service from the utility for 120/240 as many here have done. But I don't think it is...

Yep, that is the same conclusion I reached in my first post to this thread this morning after reading the MikeHolt.com article and pondering the use of an autotransformer to balance the legs. Now I just might just use an autotransformer to instead get 240v off of a single 120v leg. Or I'll...