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Running against the edge of the bearing is quieter. The reason cheaper saws do it the other way is so they don't have to use a more expensive thrust bearing.

Seems like they're trying to use their parts delivery trucks to fill a similar "convenience" niche as Snap-On (and charging for it). Need a particular tool for a job? Add it to your NAPA order and get it delivered the same time as the parts.

These are what I put on my workbench: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09L6TZ814/?tag=atomicindus08-20 Same price as the HF wheels you linked but superior in every way.

Oh God, it's back. I still have nightmares about this thread. Crack it open and see what the grease looks like. If it's cooked, replace it. Changing grease won't break anything as long as you don't put in too much and don't strip the threads when you put the screws back in.

I am just a DIYer that has no need for anything better than my HF Bremens, but damn those Malcos look sweet.

Project Farm provides a ton of data, but sometimes you have to pick and choose what is actually useful. The guy has almost too much work ethic. He busts his *** to get a video out every week. Sometimes more time needs to be spent on product selection and testing procedures, though.

The problem isn't necessarily that it's single-mode, but the type/quality of the trigger switch and control circuitry play a big part. Is it a variable-speed trigger, or is it just off/full blast?

Sorry, but that guy can't even read simple component specs. The Makita switch is only rated for 4A at 125VAC but 8A at 250VAC? That isn't how things work.

I found some Mechanix 8 mil clearanced for a few bucks a box a while back. I should have bought all they had, they're fantastic. Half the time I tear a HF 7 mil just trying to put them on. I'll have to give those Gloveworks a try.

A Harbor Freight 20 ton press is cheap compared to the value of that vise. If you don't need it afterward you can sell it and recoup most of your money.

When I know in advance that I'm going to need a tool I'll keep an eye out for a used example in good condition. If I haven't found one by the time I need it, I'll buy new. At yard sales I buy: - Unused files - Sockets in sizes I don't have or use frequently - Good ratchets - Peterson vice...

Buy a Makita. 😉

I ended up 3d printing a thinner ring spacer and a blade riser to get it working on my Makita trimmer. It was well worth the extra effort to never have to disassemble and rewind a spool by hand again. Did you put a bolt through the cap to keep it from wearing out?

Everyone here can read and knows what you said.

Yeah, called out. And you're trying to weasel out of your BS the same way you always do. This is the statement you made: That is false. You know it. You keep saying it. Who cares if they only make industrial-grade corded grinders at the Buford facility? That's what they built the factory...

Makita has factories around the world, including one in Buford, Georgia. You keep making this claim despite being called out multiple times. Why is that?

Trust your instincts. You want the XCU07, with the heavier duty bar retention. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KMYWXHP/?tag=atomicindus08-20 Or, if you can wait a couple months the new XGT is even more of a beast.

Glad I could help. If you have a Habor Freight nearby, this kit should have whatever size you need: https://www.harborfreight.com/hardware/pins-clips-clamps/retaining-rings/225-piece-retaining-ring-assortment-67654.html

I'm sorry. After taking another look at that screw, it looks like it just takes a snap ring in that groove a few inches down from the head. That flared washer should go between the screw head and the jaw to limit backlash.

It's not that washer you see on the screw in that picture. Can you post a picture of the front of the moving jaw?