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Smooth72, that is a nice display of a nice collection!

I think SIP's are a great way to go, and so do an ever-increasing number of builders. But the builders or contractors that haven't made the jump (huge leap, to them) won't be interested because they don't yet know how to make money with it, so they stick with what they know. Same for guys that...

Stuey is right about the foamcore; it's just standard stuff from any art or office supply store. The confusion may come from the word "foam", I'm only using stiff versions of products with the word "foam" in them. The whole thing could be done with wood, for example, it would just take longer...

I sell finishing DVD's. Did it for years professionally. Going dark to light is not worth it, the stain is too far into the wood. For a single, simple, flat, table top of solid wood (most veneers aren't thick enough), maybe. For a kitchen full of doors, drawers, and cabinets it will be an...

The only things just laying there now are the ratchets and extensions in the tray which I haven't made anything for yet. Everything else is reasonably secure and doesn't move opening and closing drawers. I don't move the chest, but I think I could and stuff would stay in place.

...wow, weird to edit a post in the middle of a format change on the board!

Here's some shots of the tray. I used aluminum window rollers on the end of the tray that is to the front of the drawer. They ride on a track of U shape aluminum that's sold for edging 1/4" plywood. The rear edge of the tray is lined with felt and then will just ride on the back edge of the...

All of the drawers base pieces started off as a piece of 1/4" foamcore the size of a drawer. Then I cut that into smaller sections that would hold some set of tools, like all the metric combo wrenches for example. That was to more easily work with smaller pieces and for any future repair or...

The breaker bars are Pittsburgh, the center set is from Northern Tool as are the locking extensions in 3/8 and 1/2. The 1/4 are from KD. Can't tell a difference. On this drawer everything is constructed of 1/4" foamcore (like a sandwich of stiff foam covered with posterboard) cut into various...

I'm almost finished with my ratchets and sockets, and thought I'd put up a couple of pictures. It was fun figuring out how I wanted to arrange everything. It's a 3 1/2" drawer, so the deeps could stand up, but decided I liked it better with them horizontal. That left room to make a rolling...

I bought that set a couple of months ago. It's nicely made, and would be very handy for someone who had few tools. I like using a ratcheting screwdriver and also like the variety of bits since I would have at most only an occasional use for many of them that I wouldn't want to buy dedicated...

I'm missin' something here; it says the winning bid was $10.59. And I don't think you can win an auction by a penny, can you? There are minimum bid increments that escalate, but aren't ever that low, or are they?...

My BB chest also has the holes punched for another set of slides.

I have two each of BB and GL, and can't see a difference in anything. The GL out of the box are nicer to open and close because of the GL vs. the plastic retainers that the Ball Bearing chests use. Those require a good tug to get them open, and a solid push to get them closed, which makes the...

You might consider a torsion box construction (also called floating shelf), which is very clean looking all the way around. It mounts only to the wall for maximum space below. Perhaps it could be constructed with a 2x6 rear cleat and 1x6 framing skinned with 3/4 ply above and 1/4 below...

I am with you there! :) Any excuse to use a framing nailer...but you've got the hottie wife to help you with two-peopled projects, so there would be no reason to hurry! ...oh...on second lascivious thought I'm seein' the symbolic nature of the gun and the pattern of BAM's...:beer:

You cut a 2x8 (or 2x10, 12, whatever scrap is laying around) to 17 1/2" if your joists are on 16" centers, 25 1/2" if they're on 24" centers. Drill each end of the board, 3/4" in from the edge for an appropriate sized lag screw. Two at each end is probably enough, I used three. Hold it up in...

Part of their problem, I would guess, is perception. I've designed, and sell a couple of artist's easels made of traditional wood construction. These are used in the studio, and the wood works just fine because weight and volume are not considerations. But I'm working on a field (outdoor...

You mean, like a Corvette? :)

What I didn't like in the initial post was the "cut and paste" nature of it. It didn't sound like someone writing to someone else, but just corporate drivel. But they are good tools, offered in colors, too, a la Snap-On, and I ordered a free catalog. What disturbs me is billymade talking...