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Two things I'd be concerned about on their website 1.) they comment on putting insulation BETWEEN the purlins and the outer walls. That would compress the insulation, making it basically worthless and 2.) it appears they advocate a poly-covered outer insulation and then if you want a second...

This. Up north, vapor barrier to the inside.

I live just north of you about an hour and when I had my 30 X 60 built three years ago, I had the foil-faced bubble barrier installed and it completely eliminated any condensation issues. Don't count on it to act like insulation though, as it was still hot as hell in the building in the summer...

X2. The contractor had my 1,800 SF shop completed in less than half a day spraying in to R-38. Total cost $1,200, that's with me already having the soffit vents installed. It can be in the 100's outside and my shop stays in the low-mid 80's without the A/C on.

This is what I did and worked like a charm! Thanks to all for your comments.

I am replacing a ceiling fan/light combo with a billiard table light and need some wiring instructions. There is currently four wires, a black, a red, a white, and a green ground wire coming out of the receptacle box that powered the ceiling fan. This was professionally installed, so I'm...

I was in your shoes about 2.5 years ago here in unincorporated Denton County, just north of you. What I did was actually go to the County Building Inspector (not just call them) as they were willing to spend more time with me than on the phone. Turned out, even though I wasn't in any city...

If you are a Veteran, check with your state to see if their are any special programs. I financed my building with the Texas Veterans Land Board.

Yes, put up the vapor barrier whichever route you choose to go. A little money spent now could save you a bundle later. Will it ever positively be air-tight? Probably not and without the barrier, assuming you will be heating the garage, all that warm moist air will eventually make its way...

The vapor barrier should go to the side of the building that is predominately heated. Up north, where furnaces run 7-8 months out of the year, the barrier goes to the inside to keep the warm moist air from the furnace out of the insulation. Here down south, where the A/C runs 7-8 months out of...

I'm just north of DFW near Lake Ray Roberts. My building faces to the south, because that was that way that worked best for my lot and because I wanted natural light and to put A/C in the building. By facing south, I put eave lights up high along the north wall and get lots of natural light...

Yes, you will lose R-value if you compress the insulation, as the air-pockets within the insulation are key to how it works. If you use 6 inches of fiberglass, you can expect an R-value of about R-19, using batts or rolls laid between the trusses. Spray foam or cellulose might get you a bit...

You didn't give us much to work with here, which is probably why no one has responded yet. First off, are your trusses even designed for storage? What is the bottom chord dead weight limit of your trusses? Ceiling collapse would be a major downside! Are the insulating benefits the same or...

Actually, most trusses are designed for what the buyer tells them to design them to. Many are built only to support the weight of the bottom chord and maybe a little wiring, but nothing more. Those trusses will have a bottom chord dead load of maybe 1 pound per square foot and are not meant to...

Your post doesn't mention anything, but the first thing you need to find out is what the dead load for the bottom chord on your trusses is. That will determine what you can or can't do with the ceiling. If you know who built the trusses, you could ask them, otherwise you will need to hire an...

You are in zone three, which per the North American Insulation Manufacturers website, calls for a minimum of R-30 in the ceiling and R-13 for the walls. As troyks said, increase it now while it's easy to do and make sure you seal everything tight to avoid any drafts.

Soffit vents let air in, but you need some way for the air to escape. So a ridge vent or gable vent is installed up high to allow air (and moisture) to escape. The baffles need to reach high enough up the ceiling to exceed the height of the insulation but don't need to go all the way to the...

You might think about R-panel metal, like what's used on the outside of metal buildings. It comes in lots of colors, is water-proof, spark-proof and needs minimal maintenance.

I purchased some plastic soffit vents from Home Depot for $1.98 each (I needed 95 of them) and stapled them to the inside of the 2X6 truss carrier closest to the soffit, then bent the vent inwards and attached to the roof purlin. HD also had Styrofoam vents for half the price, but they tore...

Both National Barn (Central Division) and BCI Barn Builders are pole barn builders near Broken Arrow. I went with National for my 30X60 and have been very happy with it.