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The reason I'm discounting the gas supply issue, is that: 1) I don't see any ice up at the 2 regulators 2) I cracked open the union closest to the furnace, and I had gas flow 3) As long I draw warmer air from the basement, furnace will run tip top. I'm thinking if it was a gas supply issue...

Yup, when the installer comes back, I'll definitely have him break out the manometer and measure everything. I'd do it myself, but I'm not a gas guy, and I'd rather not go where I shouldn't. Member NaturalGas was kind enough to call me and he too thinks the gas pressure might be a little, or...

Here are some pictures. Maybe someone with a sharp eye can spot something the installer and I are missing. BTW. I asked the Installer to call Trane tech support. I wonder if I can call them myself as well? Or is it better to just let the installer do it, specially if it's a warranty issue...

NG. What else cause a propane delivery issue? I mentioned to the installer the gas valve might be sticking, but he doesn't think it is. But did say if the pressure was switch was proving, then no gas would get delivered. Funny thing, this morning, I didn't need to heat it up with the hair...

Hi Bonbyjean. - 2" PVC piping was used. Say 20 feet for intake, and 25 exhaust if I account down the bends. - what temp rise across unit do you mean? The difference between the air drop and plenum going up? - Condensate line and trap are free and clear. - The exhaust termination has no...

Man, talk about frustrating. Here I am woken up at 3 am by a freezing house again. Unfortunately the pressure switch didn't solve the issue. When the furnace failed to fire, I checked voltage, and I got 27.x VAC going to the valve. I turned off and on the gas valve, and turned power back to...

I'll check the voltage next time it happens. Thanks.

Service guy just left. He replaced that one pressure switch that seemed a little sticky, so fingers crossed. What do you think it is about the intake piping that could be causing an issue. The run is relatively short with few restrictions.

I could ask the installer about relocating the inlet. As you can see from the picture, it dumps the air right on top of the burners, and all the metal is connected to the valve. But then again, it's a very air tight cabinet, so the entire cabinet will get cold equally. I can see a benefit to...

How would a restricted air flow freeze the gas valve? And what confuses me is that why it worked well on the warmer days.

I don't know for sure, but I'd say the gas valve is very likely below 32. It's very close to the outside air pipe. And this issue only happens with outside air drawn in. Basment air will let it run without missing a beat. And about a month ago, before this deep freeze, outside air was fine as well.

A little update. I hooked up to outside air again, and let the furnace sit for a couple of hours before calling for heat. Sure enough it froze again. This time I listened around, and the gas valve definitely didn't click. I used the hair dryer and reset the board. A couple of minutes later I...

A picture of the furnace or pressure switches? I know they're Honeywell switches, I believe 2 are 40 WC, and the 1 in question is 20 WC. The basement is a little colder than upstairs as we don't use it. The furnace room is pretty big and the furnace has lots of room around it. I also have the...

Are they supposed to have a damper? I'm pretty sure they don't even want screens on them anymore.

Yeah I'll check it out. Thanks. And to the point of safety concerns raised by Gungatim. It's always good to repeat it, and bare in mind. I'm a refrigeration tech, so furnaces aren't my field, but still know the dos and don'ts. The furnace is still under warranty, and hopefully the...

Yeah the fan kicks on like it should, and continues to run for a while after the igniter goes out. I also don't hear a gurgling sound, so that kind of eliminates major water puddling. I don't think it's a blown fuse, as it shouldn't fire when warmer. Initially I thought it was a stuck...

I have a 500 gallon torpedo tank, and the regulators are sized correctly, so unfortunately I don't think that's the problem.

When heat is called, the fan will turn on and run freely, then the igniter will light, and nothing happens. I don't hear a click. What would cause the gas valve to stick? After trying for 3 times, the board will show error code 2.1, which is the lockout after 3 tries. No other error codes...

The intake and exhaust pipes seem to be within spec for lengths. But I might have to check and make sure the exhaust has enough of a pitch to drain back into the furnace. The installer seems a little stumped at the moment, but I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt as there are a few...

Funny, I was thinking of ways to put some heat into the furnace. I thought maybe a hair dryer on a timer blowing into the air intake, but yeah the light bulb would work too. I'm gonna spend some time and see if I can find any buildup, or see if the angle of the drain or something isn't right...