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Several variables as already mentioned, main one being condition of existing slab. If that checks out, adding to it should be no problem for any competent concrete contractor and will be less expensive than replacing. Only issue I would be concerned with is settling at the joint. However if...

All this concrete engineering and specking construction methods is fine if you are custom building and set these requirements into the contract, very easily done. Or you build yourself. But sounds like the OP is buying a production build where deviations and ‘job site supervison’ do not mix...

Wow, 1" from the ceiling isn't going to leave room for an opener! Looks great!

Fwiw, in new construction slab on grade, 7 days is the cure time before we start framing. Pull your forms after a 2-3 days. I'd probably wait 20 days before I set the building down. And then take 2-3 days to fully set it down. Then tighten your sill plate anchors over a couple days also...

As mentioned above, don't over vibrate or you can blow out your forms. Do not underestimate how heavy concrete is, use every a very available method to reduce the wear on your team. Its like if you ever do a charity boxing deal, 3 - 1 minute rounds sound easy, until your arms stop working half...

When doing siding on a ladder, you need two people. Each one sets their ladder resting on the lowest course. Easy to set the siding in place and nail. But, with one gun is a little slower. I notice the backside pic you have covered the upper edge of house wrap with siding and the gable...

Fwiw, if you order too much they will simply take it back to their yard. You pay for it, but you don't have to dump it at your job. Pretty standard. Always order a little extra, you do not want a cold joint.

I haven't read every post, so you may already know this...I would rent a concrete buggy. It's basically a self propelled 'wheelbarrow', typically they hold 1/2 yard concrete. They move pretty quick. Available at most larger rental yards Should be able to run up and down your drive easily...

Line sets run in walls are not a big deal. That is the standard way it's done in my region. For sure 2x6 top plate is better to work with. I prefer 2x6 for any walls that will have plumbling, interior or exterior. As to future line set issues, not common at all. But, if the need arises...

On 2 equipment barns I built that house 10-12,000lb machines, I extended the aprons approx 3' at the doorways to meet the gravel and create a transition to the barn. They step down 1" then slightly slope to the gravel, are 10" thick and 10' wide and are not separate from the building slab...

Stick with 1/2" to the washer, sinks, showers, etc You will actually get better pressure and flow than 3/4. And as mentioned above, almost everything you will be connecting to will have a much smaller diameter in its entry point or supply line.

There are several methods to make up connections with pex. Pros use a Wirsbo pex expansion tool and fittings. Kinda pricy to buy the tool for a smaller project. You can go the crimp route, but that requires more parts and pieces that can be annoying. For a one time project I would go with...