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They do but it’s double ratchetimg ends no fixed end

They come in the tread cleaner tap and die kits and idk what they do or how they work. the idea that if the outer diameter of the bolt don’t fit one of the dies then you can use this makes sense but honestly I never seent any weird thread pitch on anything I work on. But if I do then now I got...

I’ve had it get stuck on bolts and nuts and had to yank them out after spline is a gimmick tbh

Not reversible like the vims

The reason they made these in spline is cause it’s cheaper. They aren’t that stupid to think some people prefer spline ratcheting end. They know everybody prefer 12 point. But the original tooling on those mountain wrenches is spline.

There not perfect because the ratcheting is spline. Would be perfect if they were 12 point. And also if they were made by another company.

Thanks for sharing it but I’m honestly skeptical of it since those metric and sae sizes dont line up that good. you can use a 7/16 on a 11 but can’t use a 11 on a 7/16 13mm is kinda big for 1/2

Stubby drills is a good idea so less likely to snap. Honestly I never thought of that. Esp since I just need to drill a small bit of depth. i thought these are for sheet metal?

it’s powder coated it’s not stainless. Honestly I’m not familiar with the term mild steel but if it’s not stainless then does that mean it would be mild? Or how do I figure it out? It’s magnetic and stainless isn’t real magnetic.

By precision do you mean needs to be precise with no wobble that might make the hole oblong? Or do you mean precise as in where the hole is? Because honestly if the hole is a little off in size or shape it’s fine I’m just running a small bolt in to hold something on. But the hole does got to be...

Do I use a pilot hole first or just go straight in? any suggestions on doing this might be different than other drilling I’ve done? I got some drilling lune of some kind in the garage. Might be for taps I forget. It was recommended here on some thread. Cutting fluid idk

I want to modify some fitness equipment that got 11 gauge steel pieces. I want to attach some stuff to it that would require me to drill about 1/4 inch holes in it. Honestly 3/16 might work I got some flexibility. I got a m18 fuel drill is my biggest most powerful regular drill. I just got a...

I read the KoKen ratchets got the lever switch backwards and that honestly turns me off. So you got to have the lever opposite what your used to with regular ratchets I’d go snap on or Tekton depending on how much you want to spend

Do you mind showing a pic and say how you do it? For those of us not familiar.

Also also wondering how do you do the crayon trick. I tried it a while back and just made a mess

You just guaranteed this thread will now be the first hit on google. Anytime I google something weird it takes me to a forum post of someone asking the question and the response is to google it.

One idea I got that honestly isn’t a new tool upgrade since I’ve had this tool a while but i might do it and if I ever get a new one I’d do it right away. On my digital caliper case on the inside make a label for decimal to fraction inches. Since I always got to look it up on my phone but it...

What cleaner do you use and what kinda wax? one time I cleaned off some impacts that came with lots of oil and I accidentally took off most of the black oxide finish and I felt real dumb

I bought a m18 drill last and before I even used it I took the original factory chuck off and put a Rohm chuck on that cost almost as much as the drill. $65 on I think like a $90 drill I saw a thread a while back about polishing pliers if there rough when new with some paste and working them...

I got a m18 rotary hammer last year on a discount. Used it a few times for basic still like drilling into concrete to make holes for anchors. I never thought about getting some hammer sds + bits to use. Who makes good ones? Maybe I’ll find a use for them someday for lower power work since...