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Bob, if you have the buying power you reference you should not be wasting you time here. If I were to do a job that the customer buys the material it better be what i spec'd. If not the work stops until the right supplies are on site. Sounds like a cheapie to me.

Does the tool say One Key on it. Does it have a small blue led on the tool? If so it needs to communicate with the smart phone that set it up.

Maybe you should have purchased a plug in float.

Your first problem is getting design and engineering help from a counter man at the supply house. I have been in the trade for 45 years and I know quite a few counter guys. They sell the product however they have probably never installed it. Let alone getting it to pass inspection. I see no...

Either convert to LED or follow the wiring diagram on the ballast. It tells you everything you need to know.

I am going to say not enough foot pressure. Foot pressure is important. The pipe in the picture looks like you tried to bend it in the air.

You say the wiring was a bit different. Did you connect the wiring the way it was or by the schematic on the ballast. Also did you install the correct lamps to match what the ballast called for?

No. Your communication cable can not go in the conduit with power wiring.

How about 12/3 or 12/3 Tray Cable?

Garvin and Raco make many different boxes.

I heard he was in Florida helping somebody pull stumps.:beer:

Don't know what your local codes are but everywhere I have worked requires a approved means of support. Also since it is outside in a wet area the conduit must not be right up to the brick. A minerlac conduit hanger is what I would use. It will allow the compression couplings to be tightened and...

Kind of sums it up.

Just ballparking this I come up with around 3K. One thing that drives up the cost is the ceiling height. Another thing is everything would be out of garage. I would not do the job unless it was. Add another 1K to climb over junk.

I see 2 easy solutions to your problem. 1 is to run conduit from the existing panel to the new sub and use thwn wire. The other is to use type UF cable.

That's why it would be nice of you to post the model number of the heater.

Count me in. Thanks SK.

It looks like tin-plated copper. If it is 200 amp is good.

I will bet you that the romex is copper clad aluminum. If it is all wiring devices should be rated for cu clad.$$

If panels have 200 amp main breakers you need to size the wire for the breaker. Looks like 4/0 aluminum.