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Did you try an actual drain cleaner, you can get something like the Ridgid Powerspin. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/power-spin Its an inexpensive hand (or drill) operated auger type drain cleaner. The bulb on the end actually drills into solid clogs and lets you pull it out. I have had a lot...

Yes, I meant infinite, its completely open. Zero would be a short, wouldn't it. Sorry for the confusion.

Just checked the driller info again, he has 40GPM for the well, the pump is rated for 10gpm at 0', I think we should be good to go as far as capacity is concerned.

I shouldn't have any problems with the level dropping, well's in this area are typically good producers, I haven't heard of anyone in my area running their well dry, even the shallower wells. I guess we are lucky in that respect. I checked the original paperwork from the driller, according to...

What you say makes sense, the normal running amps probably start at a zero depth, the deeper the pump is set, the higher the amps. I looked at the pump manufacturers tables, they have tables for depth-to- pressure and depth-to-flow, but didn't have anything on depth-to-amps.

Thanks for the response guys, I have a tendency to overthink/overcomplicate things, the pump is made in the USA by a reputable company and comes with a 3 year warranty, so I was thinking I would take a wait and see attitude, just needed a little help convincing myself. It seems to have real good...

The deep well pump at the cabin seized up after about 12 years (very little use), so last weekend my brother and I replaced it with a new one. The install went good then I ran it for about 15 minutes on the first day, its drawing 6.1 amps, the plate on motor said running amps should be 4.8...

Depends on the zoning and building dept. that approves them, I have seen permits take over two years in the City of Chicago. It is not uncommon for the permits to take longer than the actual construction.

I am currently in the process of building a garage/workshop with living area above. I had the HVAC contractor hang heating and cooling equipment for the second floor on the ceiling of the first floor shop, all of the duct work is hung this way as well. The equipment involved is a blower, A/C...

9" linesman pliers for sure.

For very cold weather, you need type HO fluorescent lamps and ballasts, these are what they use in outdoor signage. As Bert said the trend seems to be all about LED's.

Wd-40 x2

Typically a Non-IC rated fixture has a sticker that says something like, "do not allow insulation to come in contact with this fixture / do not install insulation within 3" of this fixture/ do not insulate in a way that would entrap heat". I would say if you build your boxes large enough it...

The clearance will depend on the fixture, trim, and lamp type. Pull the trim down and look inside the fixture, there should be a sticker in there with the information you need. If they are IC rated you actually have insulation in contact with the housing.

Hook, line, and sinker.

It's not really about saving the wire nut, this is a very common practice, in both residential and commercial, that has been used for a very long time in my neck of the woods. Fewer splices in a circuit make it less prone to future problems, it also takes up less space in the box

Like Stuart said, try a ratchet strap, if that don't do it get a come along. After you get it were it needs to be lock it in place with blocking/bracing and get your plywood on.

Exactly, thank you for showing what i was thinking:beer:

If you google "slip joint washer on P Trap", I think you will find what I am trying to describe, visual aids will probably help.

I think they call it a slip joint washer, your new Ptrap kit should come with it, its shaped like a wedge. The point of the wedge should go in the space between the two pipes. As you tighten it it wedges between the two pieces, you should be able to get a water tight seal just by hand...