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My findings on the 114 1/2 x Athol. First. Here is the 426 1/2 Athol for comparison. He must weight around 60 lbs. Lifting this thing takes effort. Ummmph The 114 1/2 X does not have removable jaws. It is lighter, and noticeably smaller. No idea why the 'X'. The handle is smaller, and...

Interesting. So far I see removable jaws with no Starrett and the "Made in USA" is on it's own section.

When did Athol's have replaceable jaws? Seems to me it is a Starrett. What does it say on the other side?

That big *** bolt that holds the swivel to the base. The one with the screw driver head, where people slid a metal in the slot and used a vise grips to turn it. How do repair the threads on that bolt. The threads don't seem standard.

I like the patina. See if you can just remove the rust and the white paint. Otherwise leave it be.

This -^ Those X types, I have read here, do not give you a strong grip.

Baby Wilton https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/tls/4832446004.html

I would pay $525 for this. https://cosprings.craigslist.org/tls/4826968541.html Too far. I can't imagine the amount of snow one would have to drive through to get it.

What is "body makers vise"? For example: Reed 224 1/2 or a Prentiss 26

Wish the seller can take better pictures. The slide definitely has something going on the the back, maybe it was made that way as I see no cracks. Try this guy instead. And ask if he can ship https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/tls/4819385415.html

Wilton + Big + swivel + anvil + pipe. That is quite a combination. Wilton? - When I read the Vise thread, I came to the conclusion there are other brands than Wilton. Pipe? - I am yet to read something positive about having a pipe clamp. Something tells me, a different tool would be more...

I used gravity + one hand to push the collar down as far it can go. Use the other hand to tighten. A bearing on each side. And it was super smooth. One finger turn. Just perfect. Then thursday wanted dimensions. Everything came off including the grease so I could measure. I might do...

I already mentioned in the other Prentiss thread, my #20 Lead Thread is just a little bit bigger than 7/8". I had to use a 15/16" set screw shaft collar to get it to fit. I want to use this diagram for my measurements...

Re: Prentiss #20 I have a Prentiss #20. I was too embarrassed to say how I removed the Seized Lag Bolt. Add a new bolt on top and impact wrench tight. It moved, then it popped off. Lucky I didn't break anything. Ok, what are you doing here. It sounds like a great idea. The swivel jaw...

In my #20. I don't believe I have OD 1 5/8" space available. I opted for the OD 1 1/2" , even then it is a tight fit. Also, the ID 7/8" maybe correct for the lead thread, on mine, no shaft or thrust bearing will fit. A ID 15/16 is a better fit. Part number 3750K26 - Thrust bearing 1"...

It is right here. Can't you see it?:p

I was just looking at a Prentiss 57 yesterday. The jaws did not meet evenly, so I passed. Wasn't sure what the problem was. Your 57 looks much better. How does one find a 8" athol is a mystery to me. 270# vise on a swivel :eyecrazy:

Not a Bull Dog but a Number #20 Prentiss. 4.5" Jaws, swivel base and swivel jaw. Similar yet different. I too used the set screw shaft. Bought parts from Kevin at benchvisejaws

I have a Columbian 144 and the holes are 1/4 pitch 20. Nothing at B&B hardware will fit inside the tapered hole on the jaw. Are we suppose to drill larger holes in the jaws?

Not a 9 or an 8. But a 7" jaw. Prentiss 57. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tld/4808400644.html I took a look at it, the jaws don't align properly and a crack at the back of the slide(?). I decided to pass.