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Looks to be a 2005 - 2007 ford taurus. Quickcable 6406FL terminal will probably work. 1/4" od copper tube with .035" also makes nice terminals if custom longer ones are needed. Use a press to flatten one end and solder it together. Drill your 8mm stud hole, bend and then crimp onto the...

Only if its done all in the same machine. Its highly unlikely that it was. The chuck was likely roughed out via turning on a lathe and then heat treated. Heat treating will warp the part and therefore the critical features, such as the mount face, spigot bore, and collet bore, will be...

✔️ That could be caused by runout on the backing plate face or backing plate spigot. Have you done runout in these places with the chuck removed? The easiest for a functional check is to make a facing cut on a larger size round of material, clean up then a final cut at a high speed for a...

Have you mounted/dismounted multiple times and see if it repeats? Does the L00 taper have any dings/dents? Have you tried other collets? The side runout of the back plate is completely immaterial. Only the spigot on the back plate and the mount face of the back plate has any bearing to the...

Cobbler has the gist of the operation side. Cons is much higher losses and therefore cost to reheat the water as its recirculated.

So true. I had to build some railings to prevent damage from 20,000 lbs forklifts years ago. They looked more like tank traps than guard rails, made from 6"x8"x3/16" rectangular tubing and while an engineer was telling me how over built they were an idiot hit one in front of us with the...

Do you have a temp controlled heat gun? I have a stienel and it has a small diameter adapter to go over the nozzle that takes it down to 1/4” ish in diameter and I have found it works much better that the old monster wellers with larger components

Just turn the box on its back and then upside down, the drawers will open. Then you can pull the clip

Yea. My father and I welded and had dipped a c70 flat bed and rear bumper years ago. Sold the truck so I don’t have picture. We liked the rust resistance. Can’t be anything hollow and capped, must be open ends or even holes drilled in the bottom of tubes to allow the galvanizing to drain when...

I was talking about just something 12-18” deep that could be poured via bag mix easily. Of course you could always add to it later but at least the forces would be isolated.