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Aeroflex? Looks pretty good...

So was I ... shame us mentally puny human do not have telepathy, it would save so much time especially on answering questions on forums, especially for people like me who do not read OP's posts properly the first time. ;)

I revised my previous post.

No I was wrong, the plastic pieces you have are to keep keep heat from conducting up the pipe; they can't not be doing much as far as saving energy, there still is metal to metal contact with these plastic inserts. Technical they are used on both hot/cold line.. .....you could leave them out as...

If you add a sealant to both ends of the continuous insulation it should stop air exchange. Have used K flex insulation on water supply line, Gorilla duct tape will seal the joints guaranteed, K-flex is far superior to the usual line set insulation quality.

Only one anti siphon valve is needed, it can also be installed in either hot or cold line with a tee in the piping unaffected by the valves which isolate the tank . Since you could isolate the tank from the rest of the system, it would be a good idea to have another anti siphon valve else where...

Have a 12k low temp minisplit heating/cooling my 30x36 x 10H (standard insulation) shop. Be careful in choosing your minisplit, some minisplits are advertised with the maximum output, with little to none capacity above the advertised rated output. Have Fujitsu units which output far more than...

Actually the big air gap adds insulation valve IF there is no air exchange within the insulation. If you want to replace it Supplyhouse carries high R value insulation, you do not want to replace it with the box store ****. https://www.supplyhouse.com/K-Flex-Pipe-Insulation-26880000

You might ask neighbors if they have shallow wells. If so you might be able to "drill" a well with water pressure.

"There would be very little water coming out at 100'," two drops per minute. :) Maximum Flow @ 0’ - 950 GPH...... from the outlet on the pump, with no pipe or hose on it

"Its not worth the investment or time to dig it all up and do a pitless set up. I am just hoping I can come up with a budget friendly way to water the lawn and fill the pool when needed." Many of the suggestion have good info but the OP does not want to spend a lot of money. As is to find...

Central PA. My garage 30x36 (x 10' high) , 12k low temp minisplit maintains comfort levels from -7 to 101° so 120k is absurd unless you plan to heat the neighborhood.

There must be well drilling companies around you. Research with your county and state to see if you can find the original driller who can provide info. There must be a reason the well is not used, possibly it is contaminated (unlikely), it ceased supplying enough water, or it has an unusual...

Guaranteed no leak pipe joint....Pipe dope and pipe thread works everytime....pipe dope alone useless, Teflon alone don't bother, pipe dope and Teflon tape works most of the time.

operating temperature range from 14℉ to 122℉ (pathetic), 8.5 HSPF (pathetic). How much support do you think you would get when the company sells everything but a kitchen sink?

The door frame looks in poor condition, myself I would cut it out and replace it. If you have a table saw I would get 5/4" wood ,cut width to depth, dado the head jam; the crappy ,3/4" jams just about every manufacturer sells are more work then they are worth, they require more...

Same here but your not only drying the air but all the materials in the building. Once you have the minisplit on for a while the amount of water decreases.

Novel idea...ask the inspector why he failed the inspection and for the fix. It does not pay to inform the inspector that it not in his jurisdiction unless you want to be be more aggravated and need lots more work.

Stud to the the left has no plate protecting the bottom showing wire.

Have the drain line separate from the lineset/ wiring bundle. I bring the drain line out in a separate hole low to the ground as I consider drain lines unsightly/clutter, even though I used flexible clear 5/8" tubing.