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Looks great!

Currently I'm thinking I'll use a 1-1.5" hole saw to remove a small piece of drywall on the ceiling where the upper anchor needs to go. That will let the anchor get full extension into the rafter without the drywall spacing it out. The tricky part will be getting that anchor installed perfectly...

Much appreciated! I'm definitely leaning more towards this all thread idea now rather than cable. Looks like there are even some of the sammy style screws (but Simpson brand) available locally at a semi-nearby Home Depot.

Those are very interesting, I had no idea something like that existed. Thank you for sharing, I'm going to look into these more. I've been thinking a lot about sheer vs tension for this project as there are some different options based on how I set it all up. With tear out being a concern it...

I need to confirm with span tables but it was my intention to increase the number of 2x4's used in order to prevent deflecting of the shelf. Depending on the location and number of upper supports I think 2-3 2x4's should handle it. Yes, this I know. But I'm looking for help on how to attach...

How much load do you think each rafter can take? For reference, each rafter consists of a 2x4 sistered to a 2x6. This is an odd setup due to being converted from a ridge board to ridge beam and vaulting the ceiling. My preference would be to attach to the beam as it is designed to take plenty of...

My understanding is that these really need to be installed under a shelf in order to achieve their stated ratings and I don't have room under the shelf. I'm trying to support the shelf from above, not below.

Actually, it was the upper mounting point I was referring to, not the lower. Specifically the concern would be having pull out tension on a screw that was screwed into the parallam beam. My understanding is that these types of beams are very strong, structurally when it comes to loads but not...

Thanks for that data point. I had actually wondered if I could get away with 2x2 instead of 2x4 just to keep the shelf thinner and less bulky looking. I probably should do some span calcs for reference. What you did with the cables and eye screws is exactly what one of my options would be. Not...

I’d like to install a 24” deep by ~12’ long shelf on the left wall of my garage and looking for some suggestions and ideas for how best to support it from above. Since it’s so high up I don’t plan on storing heavy things up there but 300-500lbs maybe is a realistic estimate of what it would need...

Resin and metal both work but I've hated every one I've ever had. Obviously budget is a consideration but if you can swing it, IMO, a sturdy wood shed will give you less headaches. We've got a metal shed right now and the doors are just a constant nightmare to open and close. Maybe it wasn't the...

Me either. But the thought of hammering a weight onto an expensive aftermarket or vintage wheel only to damage the finish makes me cringe.

And they're ugly as hell. I don't think I've used a hammer on weight in 20+ yrs and don't plan to ever again.

I picked up a Shure workbench that I’d like to use for my workbench build. I’m currently disassembling to get it ready for powder coating and seeing what sort of refreshing it may need. Here’s a pic: The drawers and doors use plastic rollers (no bearing). They’re riveted on. For the most part...

I've had really good luck with a 1:1:1 ratio of boiled linseed oil, polyurethane and mineral spirits. It kinda combines the best features of a standard oil and poly finishes in one. Better than oil alone as it makes the surface a little less permeable and better than poly alone since it soaks...

Fantastic! Cathedral ceilings are where it's at :)

That is precisely opposite of everything I've ever read about spray foam. Everything I've read says to use closed cell and that open cell will create the same moisture issues as just using regular batt insulation. Open cell would work if the roof was vented. But unvented you need the closed cell...

One day while the drywall guys were working I decided to get started on finishing the exterior wall where the window and door had been replaced. The stucco patch was a decent match but not perfect plus this wall has 80yrs of paint on it so the rough texture had been smoothed by layers of paint...

Slow and not-so-steady progress, but at least there has been progress. I was able to get the remainder of the insulation installed the weekend after my last post. That went pretty smoothly but definitely took up all the free time from that weekend. It was a bit itchy but ended up not being too...

I think you might be surprised how much moisture you could create, especially in such a small space - coincidentally mine is the exact same size. Everyone think's it's a regular 2 car garage but boy oh boy is it tiny once you start trying to park cars and work inside. In reality ours are 20%...