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Hey there. I need to repair my sliding barn door. In order to do so i need to access the top of the the sliding wheel bracket which is up inside the box rail. Its a very old box rail and disconnecting the rail is not an option. I need to put the nut back on the bolt that attches the wheels to...

Make sure you slope your concrete apron around your door properly.

Ace hardware should carry it. It is fairly popular. It can be applied with a caulking gun or you can get smaller tubes that you squeeze i believe.

You can use PL Premium adhesive or use Tapcon screws. You would need a hammer drill or some drills have a hammer setting. Tapcon screw packs usually come with a predrill bit for the specfic size of the screw. Pre drilling will help with not cracking the cinder block. Do not over tighten them though.

If you can afford the slab you can afford the rebar. Concrete is expensive and you would be foolish imo to not use it.

Rebar helps against frost heaving. I have witnessed this first hand. I had a slab with no rebar and a slab with rebar. Both with the same base and compaction. The slab without the bar heaved worse by far. Hands down.

In most cases the building code insists on rebar or wire mesh.

I agree with Matt i' s last comment. Wiring intersections does solidify the entire rebar grid.

The rebar chairs I used had a circular base about 4" across. They were alot less shaky and held up well during the concrete pour. I bought them at HD.

You can use a flapper wheel after to touch up the swirl marks.

Install a high quality extruded polystrene rigid foam insulation around your slab and overtop of your footings will help with frost heaving.

I back up Kpaige. My pole barn post heaved 10". It occured over a couple of yrs though. The trusses rest on the beams that are carriage bolted to the posts. 2-3 posts on either side came up as well. Frost is a very powerful force. John

U need to dig around the posts themselves and get a backhoe or shovel and shove them back down. I just did this this past fall. I then proceeded to lay 2" styrofoam poly around the base of the post and then backfilled.This hopefully will prevent the frost from getting underneath and heaving it...

Was considering osb but concerned about seeing the "wood flakes" even after several coats of primer?? John

I needed a disconnect switch, emergency shut off switch and it had to be hard wired. If the wire was exposed it had to be "bx" cable. I also had to run a ground wire from my steel supply line to my panel. John

Install baffle vents and plug the cavity from the top plate to the bottom of your sheating with batt insulation to keep the blown in from filling your softit cavity.

Re: garage heater final install advice. I had to install a disconnect switch as well as an emergency shut off switch. John

The vertical seal that seals on your door.

Does the vertical seal that seals on your fit tight? And when closed does the seal "lap" the tsunami seal?

Aldeanfan. Was it 6 mil or a thinner vapour barrier?