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Finally should be getting some progress next week on getting my building started! I will do some postings of the build when it gets started.

Sorry forgot about this post. Anyway they specs your seeing for new floor is NOT for a new floor as in a new whole floor but one that section was cut out and re-poured due not to meeting the specs...see where it says "New Concrete Slab Recommendations: The information contained in this...

Just a FYI it's now 4.25" thickness /3000 psi. I just got a email from them where I asked if I get the area where the lift is going poured to 4.25" should it be 2 separate sections or just one pour covering both uprights. All they did was send the requirement sheet showing requirement of 4.25".

Well ****! Just found out DOT wants to redo the bridge and road in front of my house so losing most of my front yard and road appears to be going about 50 ft or so from my building! Still plan on doing the garage though. Got the grading done will upload a pic tomorrow.

Thanks! Thats about what I was thinking about getting done but unsure if the manufacture recommends 2 separate or 1 solid section deeper. I sent BendPak a email about this but no response yet.

Been looking at the Bendpaks XPR-10S lifts and see their requirements on concrete is 4.25 thick at 3000 psi. Told my builder that due to lift wanted the concrete at 5" 3000psi as contract is spec to be 4" @3000 with rebar and gravel. He wants to just got a little deeper in that area to save me...

Nice shop!

Thanks for the info Lakeroadster. This will be on a new floor not cutting from a per-existing floor. What lift did you go with?

In process of getting my build for a 30x50 metal building. Wanting to put in a 2 post lift...eventually. Been looking at some 10k lifts as figured that would suit my needs as the heaviest vehicle I got is a F150 extended cab 4x4. Now my contract says 4" thick concrete but told my builder due to...

Well I know but figured better get it all now before the wife spends it all...lol.

Well I guess God works in mysterious ways. He text me that the color I picked for the wall he could not got so he showed me what he can get wife was here so she helped me and approved it!

Finally got my building ordered wife does not like the colors I picked but oh well. Was wanting a light gray but but he could not get that so went with a desert sand wall and a light stone roof and gutters and all will be same color as the walls. Roll up doors will be I think white. Still...

Think the difference between my prices of 30x50 and 40x60 was about 10-15k more grading and all. If I wasn't wanting to save back about 25-30k for a old car I could go with a 40x60 but the car was a good reason for me to get the garage built.

Ok thanks!

Originally I was wanting a 40x60 but price wise looks like the 30x50 keeps it in my price range and will allow me to buy some other stuff but I'm planning later on to put a lean-too on the far end 50ft side.

Thanks for the advice. So go with a 18' door on both ends and when you said keep hoist off to the side so I should move it from centered to one side more or just angle it to one side as I have seen others angle theirs also. Reason why I had it centered was to allow plenty of room from side to side.

Looks like I'm going with a 30wx50l metal building and wanting to put 2-10" roll-up doors on one gable end and a single 10' roll up door on opposite gable end but centered. I plan on putting a 2 post lift in centered on the 30ft gable end with one roll up door. Figured the longest vehicle I...

looking good! Bet you can not wait to get it completed and start using!

Well looks like I may have to settle on a 30x50 as the 40x60 is getting too close to my limit and will cut into my hot rod fund. Still looking into my options though...

I know the people I talked to about there insulation (batts) said same thing that its not overbearing hot in summer and same thing in the winter about coldness. I figure won't do the foam sine wont be heating/cooling it and maybe with the money saved I can buy some more toys!