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I am thinking the same as you. The high lift sees less tension at the end. The vertical sees consistent tension as it goes up. Since I am going up one foot and then at a 5/12 slope, so it will act more like a vertical lift. I am going to weigh the door for new springs and make up the...

I don't want bolts sticking up from the floor if lift gets moved. That's the reason I am going with Hilti. The HIS Internally threaded anchors are the ones to use. They are just so darn expensive. I paid over 45 bucks a piece.

Thanks for the video.

You are mostly right. The higher the frequency, the more it travels through the outer skins. Some cables are not cables at all. Look at a cell tower. Those cables are corrugated copper tubes coated in vinyl. They are not even smooth. The walls are crinkled so the current leaves the...

You don't. That's the reason I made the comment. I know the concrete guys and I can test the concrete if I want. I have tested a lot of concrete for highway construction. You know, the guy who makes all those holes in brand new highways. I had a lot to do with figuring out what happened to...

I wrote the previous reply to someone who was asking about the Hilti anchors. I researched the topic until it was dead. I got em, but they will add about 800 bucks to your install. They use an 1 /14 hole, so you are getting twice the circumference for the epoxy to grip or adhere. Oh, I have...

I am using the HIS internally threaded anchors from Hilti. If you have to buy these, I will have a couple extra. They come in boxes of five. Ten cost about 450 bucks. With four bolts, a drill bit and twelve 2.5" bolts and several tubes of epoxy you are looking at six hundred bucks to bolt...

I don't know what instructions or specifications you got with your lift, but most do not come with specifications or even instructions. If they do give them, they don't even belong to the lift or even the type of lift you actually have. I don't have chains, air lines, gears or chains but the...

Quite often I hear people saying that the engineers have totally got this. Supposedly they approved of the choice of concrete anchors and we should not try to second guess or improve things. From my experience of buying these things, I have come up with the conclusion that no engineer ever saw...

I am wanting to do vertical or high lift to my garage door too. I am going from a 9.5 foot ceiling to a 12.5 foot ceiling by converting trusses to rafters and ridge beam. I am looking into going back with a high lift, but it is obviously quite challenging to figure out. Your write-up has me...

If you can do steel, do steel. Aluminum isn't just hard to work with, It is hard to keep paint on it. The weight is something you can engineer around with heavier post footings and concrete ballast or counterweights.

The outer wall does not need a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier is between the warm moist air and the cold metal sheathing. Insulate with whatever you like and use a continuous vapor barrier on the inside. Some think that there should be a house wrap. No, not needed with a metal exterior...

I have built a few that way in the country. Otherwise, a lot of cows would not have legs. We just add treated 2x12's to the posts. It would not meet urban building codes. A knee wall is needed to hold the aggregate up to the slab. The slab would be subject to freeze thaw and frost heaving...

That polystyrene is a vapor barrier/insulation system of its own since you taped the seams. In New Jersey, you should have at least an R-4.5 capsulated insulation foam if it is against the exterior sheathing. If so, the vapor will not seek the cold surface and won't condense. It is ok to go...

Yeah, you don't need to kill the vapor barrier on the fiberglass. Your vapor barrier on the inside will do what it needs to do and the other barrier won't effect it. The vapor barrier just needs to stop the vapor from the inside sticking to the cold exterior wall.

CFC's will put a fire out. HCFC's might burn. HFC's will burn. The new stuff will explode. Some refrigerants contain propane these days.

Frequency drives are getting quite a bit cheaper.

OSB is ugly is some ways. It doesn't look so good to paint and boy does it use up a gallon of 80 dollar paint. If you strip the seams to get a 4x4 panel look, it will be somewhat better. I like the look of metal, but you want to hang stuff on it. You can hang on it, you will just have to hit...

I think you are right. I worked in the HVAC field for 20 yrs. The screws are cold when it is cold outside. The metallic dust sticks when the screw is wet and it also discolors when wet. If you do plasma cutting inside, you will always get this pretty bad. I am re-painting my shop and...

Some people say to sheath before trusses. You don't have to. You can brace the structure and space the tails on one side to accept the sheathing. Try to line up the trusses to only one side and then use the trusses on the opposite wall to line up the wall itself. Just don't give to one side...