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You can't beat V clamps, You can find them on Ebay or most custom exhaust people will have them. When correctly fitted they don't leak, and they are easy to get apart. OH and they look super cool as well.

Hi there, Let me tell you a bit about my blasting cabinet. I brought a cheap cabinet new from eBay, at first everything was fine, i don’t use it every day, just for small projects now and again, so my first problem was when i wanted to change the glass i found that the frame holding it in was...

That is GENIUS, I will defiantly steal that idea, thanks for sharing

If i can i use a bit of tube the ID of the tube im trying to weld's OD, then cut that piese of tube in half, and clamp that to the tube i want to weld, maybe via a hose clip or 2. That then acts as a saddle to rest the tube to be welded. i know it sounds a bit half ased but it works for me.

This is going to sound a bit left field, but I have always used a tig welder. Set quite high it will cut the wire and fuse the strands togeather so it can be ground to a point if required. Other then that SnapOn do some great linesman plyers

I thing you should forget about having a mechanical connection and look at some or the structual adhisives that are about. I use Scotch weld 9323 at work all the time and when its cured ( about 2 hours) you can drill and tap 10/32 and achive 7fLb torque with it.

Why not make a 25mm arbour to go in the hole saw, and use a 36 mm hole saw like you where drilling the holes from scratch, if you could find a bit of solid bar, 25mm diameter, drill and dap to the same size as your pilot drill from the hole saw ( i guess 6 mm) screw a cut off bolt into that...

I'm with zmaxmotorsports on this, the other idea would be to deform the pipe that you are going to weld to match the header,

Hey that looks like a neat project well done, I did try to make a tube knocker, after seeing the ones that are for sale here in the UK, then i looked at my lathe and its tool post and figured that i would mod the tool post to fit and hold the tube. After seeing your solution to this i will...

Jack, When you start on the wheel arches, please bearing mind that you will see an increase in Brake temperature because you will now be carrying less air in the arch, so you might want to incorporate brake ducting into your design. Also you might like to experiment with outer wheel covers...

Try there they work really well, and not too hard to make

Just to throw my 2 cents worth into the pot: Motor racing set-up is all about compromise Why does the car create lift? Well the top surface of the car is longer than the underside. So if you trust that every piece of air on earth is attached to every other piece of air on earth, then you can...

How lean are we talking here, like detonation lean?? I know that the Fiat engine does have many issues, is the vacume takeoff for the brake servo coming off that inlet track? Also no 4 is furthest from the water pump so maybe its getting too hot, on race engines they enlarge the waterways at...

Hi HH76, The first thing I see, or rather don't see is a central bush to pass through your brass bush, It would need to be 10thou longer then your assembles bushes so that when you tighten the bolt it don't lock the brass bushes up, otherwise looks good.

Most of what I build is in aluminum or magnesium so using an impact wrench is a no no from the start, what works well with any stuck bolts is a paint striping type hot air gun, obviously don't go nuts with it, but just heat up the local area then use a breaker bar