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Sort of; you would need a booster fan an an electric Reheat Coil. They need to be matched as far as CFM capacity and the coil should have an air proving switch. Check PM Wright and equivalent. ...of course, the electric coil is just as much of a safety issue as the electric radiant...;) Dave

Hot air would make a very poor radiant heat source; your system doesn't have enough CFM to heat a large area that way. There is nothing wrong with hydronic or electric floor radiant if done properly. For your purposes, I would agree with Kevin and use electric underfloor in the areas you want...

Old thead but; An exhaust fan is a good idea. 70 CFM is pretty weak; I used a 300 CFM Broan 1.5 sone insulated cabinet fan and ducted it through the wall. My garage is 650 sq. ft with an 11' ceiling. I use a fresh air intake hood with a backdraft damper on other end of the opposite wall for...

I also know the area VERY well. ;-) I spent 15+ years in Hope and my family still lives there. Where are you located? Anyway, I'm sure with that footprint, you'll need a foundation wall; check with the Town and say hi to Linda for me when you're there. :-) It's pretty hard to beat the cost...

Yep. :willy_nil Dave

Actually it IS vehicle exhaust that the code was written for; you can always install a fire damper to maintain a fire rating in the wall penetration to maintain continuity of the fire rating. Smoke is something else and smoke from a fire will get pulled into return air ductwork when the furnace...

Oh and IMO, moisture control should be more proactive than "let it percolate through the walls". I put a small (cheap) exhaust fan on a humidistat to exhaust moist air as required but honestly, so far I have yet to exceed 54% relative humidity so it hasn't been needed. Dave

1) yes use a vapor barrier 2) insulate the walls, it's cheap 3) 1/4" is way too light and will sag. 4) If it's an attached garage, use drywall for the fire separation (usually 5/8" type X) Dave

http://energyexperts.org/EnergySolutionsDatabase/ResourceDetail.aspx?id=4129

The best bang for the buck is the 5kw 220v elec heaters; there are dozens of brands but they all are basically the same and usually come in a red metal housing. If you don't want to wire in a 220 plug, you can try two or three 120v 1500 watt heaters. DO NOT get sucked in by any clever...

1) sharing heat and air with the house is never a good idea for a bunch of reasons. 2) a small electric portable construction heater is all most people need. up to 5kw if you can wire a 220 plug 3) I don't like or recommend ventless heaters either. Vented unit heater or furnace is...

Metal sheds are garbage and plastic is....well, plastic. I looked at prefabbed wood but all had hokey doors made up of OSB and weren't tall enough. Went down to buy the material to build my own and ended up ordering one to my spec's; 14' x 8' x 8 to 7' roof. 36" metal man door in frame, 3/4...

I don't want to speak for e-tek but there is no free ride; you want to control humidity and/or indoor air quality then it's going to cost some money. How much depends on alot of variables. I have a 300 CFM fan that I'm going to hook to a humidistat, but I've been monitoring the humidity levels...

Pay attention to Jack's comment about fire ratings. If that's not an issue, then I'd use plywood, or a combination of plywood/slatwall over drywall. Not a big fan of OSB. Currently my detached shop has one wall with 4' of 1/2 plywood on the bottom with the upper 8' being drywall and the whole...

I came here for two reasons; the first was to get inspiration and ideas on how better to organize and outfit my garage/shop and to learn from people on areas that I have little experience (like flooring!). The second was to try to help people with the age old questions around garage heating and...

I can't believe anyone would want a non-heated garage unless it's for storage only or you live where it never gets below freezing....heck I even put A/C in one of my shops. Unless you can get some info from the owner builder, you might try the city or municipality assuming plans were registered...

I wasn't talking about compressing 5.5" insulation to 3.5", I was talking about using 3.5" deep studs to frame the wall which would give you a gap of 2" between the back of the wall and the outer sheathing. ...the thicker insulation will work fine and offer increased R value in this case. Dave

Yep, I understand all that but I stick with my thought that (while it's prudent to go ahead and check assuming that information is available and you don't need to pay a structural engineer to do it) that the load of a ceiling on the bottom truss cord is a) relatively insignificant and b) should...

It's just not good trade craft. Long hangers aren't as stable (we actually need to install seismic restraint wires too), unit can move around more, looks crappy, venting needs to be extended, gas, wiring, it's more likely to get hit with something, etc. etc. My cost on a decent ceiling fan is...

Yeah, I have one and like it. :thumbup: Everyone's situation is somewhat unique, I have 5 motorcycle batteries, 6 deep cycle RV batteries and three car batteries that need to be kept up over the winter. I take them out of the vehicles and line them up on a bench; they are stored in the heated...